seanbw

http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/weldingdepot/0010x.html so im guessing you mean something like this? i haven't found a supraflex or suplaflex, but i did find some super flex.... is there a preferred distributor for cable you have? im assuming flexibility is just a matter of the strand count, more strands = more flexible? this is starting to get more helpful... a link or two would be appreciated though. oh, and the partsexpress advice for interconnects/speakerwire was great Honda, thank you. edit: since i've got my ignorance out on full display here let's go all the way..... ///m5: perhaps as a sq guy u can direct me towards a couple more answers; grounded vs ungrounded rca's? twisted pair >, = or < regular speaker cable and why? sorry for the hijack

if u get the sundown from db-r u can get it for $350 and it will be under warranty for a year. not to mention chris is a stand up guy who runs his business with the customer in mind, got my sundown 1500 and another refurb amp from him, both work perfectly. http://www.db-r.com/sell/store/index.php?productID=143

ok, so everyone has negative opinions about the 140 dollar kicker kit. does ANYONE want to provide a POSITIVE solution, rather than just scoffing at how expensive mine was? let me clarify, what im asking for is a reliable easy to access source for wire that anyone sitting behind their computer screen with a credit card can purchase. I'm not talking local distributors, hook ups, or mystery sources. Suggestions would not only help the thread starter but those who are paying too much for wire like me. not all of us need 4/0, and not all of us want to wrestle with welding cable. i'm not saying the kicker wire is anything fabulous, i'm just asking for some constructive answers to a valid question.

^^

sundown 1500?

the btl is fi's most efficient woofer, watt for watt it will get louder than any of their other subs.... meaning u could run 500w to it and it would bang harder than a q, bl or ssd. for that $ u should get a sundown 3k though.....

You paid $7 a foot for 1/0??? That's a rip off, I only pay $4 a foot for Hyperflex. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3935_Kicker+PKD1.html 23ft 1/0 10ft 4ga fuse and distribution, preterminated power and ground too. i paid for a lot more than just 20 ft of 1/0

the kicker hyperflex is amazingly flexible. it's tinned copper which i believe fights corrosion. they give you 20ft of power in the kit which is nice and u can get it for bout $140. it was the logical choice for my budget system....

taking the easy route is a pretty selfish thing to do.... then again so is drunk driving

i dont know if u can underpower btl's. they have a higher efficiency than almost any comparable subs which means they should get louder with the same load than any other sub in their class.

i remember in the mid 90's there was a local shop in west berkeley called supercars that did audio for the local rappers. the guy had a portfolio with systems he did for e-40 and b-legit back in the day. he did a range rover killer tay had with the old stroker 18s in it, blew my mind 10 years ago. i still have a pair of Zeuz 825w max comp subs from that shop. they paint on the baskets are totally corroded but they still wang. I think they came out of florida in the early 1990's.

no that would be a single load between 1 & 2 ohm. each amp seeing half of that. all the power testing is listed in the sundown forum for their amps. 1500: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7116 3000: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=9952 edit: that would be the load to BOTH subs not individually.

possibly strapping sundown 1500's would be the way to go if budget is an issue? i got my sundown from chris @ db-r for $360. thats about half of the autotek amp.... theres no question that you will be happier with the reliability and personalized service from sundown. db-r is an authorized refurbisher and very pleasant to deal with as well. as i understand u can run between 3k & 4k watts daily on strapped 1500's. please correct me if im wrong!

it looks legit.... http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Autote....1D/inside1.jpg same board as a hifonics goliath. i mean for that price and that much power can u really complain? hows your electrical look.

buy a forclosed property or two when they hit their cheapest (which should be in the next 6-36 months)

i think the big box stores mirror your average consumer. these days the average consumer is looking for the best price on the product they believe is the best. they don't care that it may not be the best, they just want to be told it is, and pay a low price for it. if people in general cared about more their product and how they use it, there would be more emphasis on training and hiring quality employee's who understood the products and how they work. unfortunately the higher overhead due to training and hiring competent employees does not equal profit in the world of big boxes.

i won't know why it blew until i hear from scott. possibly efficiency of my box allowed for xmax too easily? poor build quality on woofer? im not expert. at least i know with the fi recone it won't be the woofer's fault if it fails. @ this point regardless of why it failed recone $ + $ spent on woofer = Fi BL or almost a nighshade, which would have been a better choice for how I was using the speaker. (never said it was a bad sounding woofer, it just wasn't right for my application)

<---- 6'3" 250lb, i need an XXLT. So.... thats another oversized customer who needs a tall shirt and is willing to muscle for product. you've got quite a posse going here.

just be careful with those sx's, i think they're power handling is over rated. i literally built half that setup, saz1500, sx 15, 4cu @ 34hz, 1/0, and cooked my sx. now it could be my fault because i did not scope my gains ( no access to oscope ), however, the amp gain was set so that the current draw was maxing around 90amps without dropping below 12v (my alternators capacity and what i would estimate to be approx 1000 watts) and the sx blew. it's @ Fi right now and im just waiting for scott to get back to me about why the sub failed. seeing as this is the sundown forum i think u want nightshades

correct me if im wrong but... thats like 20-30kw continuous on music right? 40kw+ burps?

while i was driving yesterday my car started to make a strange clicking noise under the passanger side of the dash. earlier that day i had stopped by a sears auto center where a friend works and hooked the car up to their battery diagnostic and ran my system almost full volume for about 30 seconds. i noticed the voltage never dropped under 12 and the amperage draw stayed around 80-90 at the highest. i stopped at in and out and then drove the car home, the clicking started right as i was pulling in my driveway, the radio went on and off a bunch and lights on the dash went crazy. i have a redtop, kicker 1/0 a sundown 1500 and a re sx 15 (dual 2). it's in a 1995 accord 2.2 4 cyl with a 90 amp alternator. my gains were set by the shop that built my enclosure and i haven't noticed any heat or clipping problems. anyone know what this might be? (the alternators on the driver side of the engine bay, and this was definitely coming from under the passanger side dashboard.)

wow that toshiba does a 5:5 pulldown, that's really cool with a blu-ray or any 1080p/24, 720p/24 or 480p/24 (film) source! Every 120hz lcd i'd seen up to now did a 6:4. good to see the framerate processing is coming along. nice find m5.

sounds like your research was spot on. for an 8-9 ft viewing distance a 50" plasma or 46" lcd would be perfect. i might even say go plasma because they have a tendency to be more forgiving with resolutions outside of native. like you said, unless you want to watch blu rays while sitting really close 1080p is not necessary. i do not forsee television altering the resolution or framerate of their broadcast for many years, so theres no reason to buy 120hz or 1080p for that purpose. all video cameras film @ 30fps and that signal interlaces perfectly on a 60hz 720p tv, to produce 1080i/60hz. in respect to 120hz lcd's i would say it comes down to personal prefernce. i prefer to have my tv NOT trying to process and add 60 more frames of video that don't exist in the broadcast, because imho it molests the picture and looks fake/inaccurate. however, i DO like the 6 color processing capability of my DLP, it really helps with red wavelength light, as that lower frequency on the wavelength makes it hard for cameras to pick up and televisions to process. I believe some sharp televisions have 4 and 5 color processing (unique among LCD's) to help them process magentas and deep magentas but really i think the pioneer KURO 720p is a LOT of tv for the $! (this is probably all outdated information anyways seeing as i got laid off 9 months ago and haven't really cared about the hdtv industry since then)

Well, you got some attention, and thats obviously what you're looking for.

I guess your right there... but what if he held you at gunpoint with that thing on his back? Gear, I'm not saying that I'm right, or that anyone is for that matter. I just wanted to provide a balanced perspective for this kid, and everyone else posting in this topic. It's really easy to superimpose our point of view on a situation and assume that every-one else operates under the same guidelines. I know when I was 14 I was a real chit. By the way, if you get robbed in Berkeley, Oakland or San Francisco chances are your assailant WILL have a backpack full of speakers, and platinum teeth crusted with diamonds. Not only that, chances are your perpetrator might kill you for no reason and then start turf dancing and/or giggin on your lifeless body. Now that's humiliating!