trunks9_us

good thinking i am actually taking my box out tomorrow anyhow to start my sound deadening on my trunks using 2 bulks packs of dynamat extreme so 72 sq ft should be good enough for a trunk any how i will go with second skin products after that. Thx for the up ill look into it.

i dont know anyone who has one do you think shops have them?

OK i got this box made 4 yrs ago for my other car but it was a ported box for 2 12's. It was for 2 pioneer premiere ts-w12prs subs. Now i am not sure what the sub actually calls for on ported box but the is a review & Klippel Data on this sub here http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...newthread&f=24 Its a slot port box btw The box is pretty big Here is the outer dimensions of the box Height:12.5 Width:36 Length:26 I am using 3/4 mdf wood Here is the port length Width: 4.5 Length: 11 Depth: 18 Here is the specs of my w12gti's http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/CAR/Bo...2GTi_rev_f.pdf I am currently using this box on 2 w12gti's with a sundown 1500d at 2 ohms which is 800 rms. Well I am about to buy another 1500d soon strap it to get a full 3000 rms But if the box is not right it could damage the subs. I dont think 800 rms will damage of course i could be wrong on that but they seem to be fine since they been in there. Will this box be ok for these subs at high power?

Ok my subs are set to never really pop or clip unless you put alot of gain up i have my gain set right according to the dmm set at 43 volts Running a sundown 1500d at 1.5 - 2 ohms. Well i know its not the subs they can take a harder beating by mean turning the gain up higher just distorting them a lil bit so thats not the problem. The popping seems to only happen when on the highway with all windows down doesnt do it when in the city with windows down. So what is the problem here? I have the volume the same spot on samg song in the city and nothing happens. Can someone help me out with this.

sry to jack this thread but i have a similar situation with a loc on my stock hu. See I am using a david navone loc http://www.davidnavone.com/cart.asp?24&cat=7 TWO CHANNEL HIGH QUALITY LINE DRIVE ADAPTER NE-7V $19.95 See it says you can do this The Navone Engineering NE-7V is a stereo, full-range speaker level to pre-amp level line output adapter with balanced and/or common outputs, full transformer isolation, an adjustable output signal level that ranges from zero up to 9.5 Volt Maximum RMS, and a powerful infrasonic filter on the bottom end. The inputs of the device connect to the car's left and right speaker leads that are provided, and the gold-plated RCA female chassis mount outputs feed into the input of an aftermarket equalizer, electronic crossover, or power amplifier. The fully isolated circuitry eliminates DC ground loops and provides excellent coupling with a high input impedance. The source impedance of the Navone Engineering NE-7V is low enough to be considered a competition grade component. The output range adjustment (0 to 9.5 Volts) permits a wide range of OEM decks to perfectly interface with a wide range of aftermarket components. However, we highly recommend leaving the trim pots at the MAX level. To optimize the signal and minimize the system noise, we also recommend using the Autosound 2000 Test Disc CD#104, Level Setting, to perfectly set up your system's gain structure. I have the adjustments a lil over half way to try and meet 6 volts but i have my gain a lil over half way with no bass boost. so should i be turning mine all the way up then on this loc? I am going to be playing with it today but i would like to know what yall think about this as well. If you go to the link you will understand what i am talking about. Ok i just got back from tuning the loc and i measure the preout voltage on the rca with the hu at 55 out of 63 and a 50hz no at 0 db well measured it in a/c 200 and it came up at 2.1-2.3 at 55 and 2.7 at 63 and this is with the loc turned all the way up. So thats why not my gain is so damn high. and now i understand.

I am stating to you that i was told that a 1.5 ohm load is really 2 ohm and not 1.5 its because i was told that it will never go below that but always above that. I may not be the best to explain this hopefully someone else will read this and explain it better on here to you.

I am trying to figure out how the night shades compare to the digital design subs for a spl vehicle. I am wanting to know how loud the night shades are to the dd subs. with the same rms levels. I guess i would like a comparison btw the 9500 series and the 3500 series against the night shades. Any one with some experience here?

thx for the help this will basically quadruple my power then by adding another amp and strapping.

Ok this is so confusing to me i am confusing myself. So plz hear me out. First of all I am using 2 of these sub http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/CAR/Boxes%20...12GTi_rev_f.pdf Together wired in parallel they make a 1.5 ohm load which what i been told on here thats really 2ohms or a 2ohm amp for max power would be best suited. (parallel/parallel) = 1.5 ohm load Voice coils wired in parallel, speakers wired in parallel Right now I have a sundown 1500d which is 800rms at 2 ohms. I want to buy another 1500d and strap it. My confusion is right here since the sundown does 1500rms at 1 ohm and i decided to strap it what will my final ohm load be. I am hoping that if i strap this amp then that i will have each amp at a 1 ohm load to make 2 ohms total meaning that i will be going from 800rms to 3000 rms using both amps or will i just have 1600 rms? Regardless i am told these subs can handle brutal power there rated at 700rms but can handle 1200 rms or more.

Hey i got another question for ya as well What would the load be if i was using 3 of these subs (series/parallel) = 4 ohm load Voice coils wired in series, speakers wired in parallel. thats what the sub wiring diagram would call for but since you know a bit more about finding out the ohm loads let me know.

Hey shizzzon I am now starting to understand the ohm loads you were trying to explain to me now with giving it alot of power but clipping it or unclipped and not as loud i now understand this so my question to you is If i bought another 1500d then strapped them to both run them both at a 1 ohm load which would give me a final 2 ohm load for the amps which would then match up for the subs ohm load and the subs should still be able to handle the power as well given the fact the subs are rated at 1200 rms like you said in a previous post. The only problem i am having trouble with is how do i strap them to a 1 ohm load on the amp to run 2 ohm load for the subs? Is this even possible? The only other thing I can think of is if these are dual 4 ohm subs and the manual doesnt give me a wire config for a 4 ohm load with 2 subs cause they say there dual 6 ohms. So i was looking on the12volt sub config and i saw this would this work if i did this for the 2 subs? http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_c...sp?Q=2&I=42 wire or the subs in dual 4 ohm is the same as dual 6 ohm for the 1.5 / 1 ohm load so it all comes down to the amp then i guess. Or should i call jbl and ask them what to do?

Hey shizzzon I am now starting to understand the ohm loads you were trying to explain to me now with giving it alot of power but clipping it or unclipped and not as loud i now understand this so my question to you is If i bought another 1500d then strapped them to both run them both at a 1 ohm load which would give me a final 2 ohm load for the amps which would then match up for the subs ohm load and the subs should still be able to handle the power as well given the fact the subs are rated at 1200 rms like you said in a previous post. The only problem i am having trouble with is how do i strap them to a 1 ohm load on the amp to run 2 ohm load for the subs? Is this even possible? The only other thing I can think of is if these are dual 4 ohm subs and the manual doesnt give me a wire config for a 4 ohm load with 2 subs cause they say there dual 6 ohms. So i was looking on the12volt sub config and i saw this would this work if i did this for the 2 subs? http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_c...sp?Q=2&I=42 Or should i call jbl and ask them what to do?

i am building 2 different cars one is LSQ i mean SQ and one is spl. so you're thinking of either using a 9.0 or a 3000d for the SQ setup? Or am i missing something here? Oh sry im using the 9.0 for my sq setup and actually still deciding on using either more 9.0's or 3000d's on my spl setup see i can get a used 9.0 for the same price as a new 3000d and i am very familiar with zapco products how ever the 9.0 does not have strapping and you can only get the 9.0 down to 2 ohms or 4 ohm version & the 9.0 only accepts up to 2 gauge power and gnd wire so i have to use converters from 0 - 2 gauge & the only other thing i can see wrong is the 9.0 gets hotter more then the sundown from what i have been using. The reason I dont like the 3000d is it does not have balanced inputs which i can easily fix with zapco sells a product for rcas for balanced inputs. so not really a big huge problem To be honest i think the sundown 3000d will be awesome on my setup. I was told 2 1500d strapped is louder then 1 3000d. So I might end of with 4 -8 1500d or get 2 3000d I have to look into my options here with rules on how many amps I can use and all. The only other factor I need to look into is my alternator I have a 130 amp hi output alt from ohio gen. Thats the biggest they make so I might try to just use 2 3000d's have extra batteries in the back I alrdy have a kinetik hc2400 under the hood of my echo on this car I have decided to use digital design subs not sure which one and hoe many to use. I am still deciding to wall off the car or not which is what i want so i probably will wall it off.

That was your settings, not the amp. What settings no eq was involved set the settings on both amps the same. They sound different its plain and simple.

i am building 2 different cars one is LSQ i mean SQ and one is spl.