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what are the duty cycle rattings on the saz1500d ? and at what wattage are they 100% duty cycle ? thanks

why does it say rick-rolled when i typed jim-j

thanks RIckRolled for the response i actualy come from a rf background i bet that your correct about sundown having 100% duty cycle even though i dont use mine anywhere near full power or for any real amount of time at once a time could come up that it could happen and if i know that it is rated for it i would have no problem doing it. but if it is not 100% duty rated then i have no problem staying within spec all my setups are set with an o-scope and then turnd down to where i want to hear it. i buy sundown products not because they are under rated but because they are over built.

so i could play a 50hz test tone at 1500 watts rms non stop for 24 hr without any damage , excess wear or tear or over heating ? that would be 100% duty cycle. if it could only do that for 1 min on 1min off 1 min on 1min off ect......... then it would be 50% duty cycle. if it could only do that fo 1 min on 3 min off 1 min on 3 min off ect ...... then that would be 25% duty cycle and just because it puts out more than 1500 watts doesn't mean that it can do it at 100% duty cycle. it might only be able to put out 1000 watts at 100 % duty cycle. or what ever it is. i'm sure sundown already tested this and has average numbers for theese amps. i have a feeling that it is 100% duty cycle at full unclipped power but wanted to know for sure. i don't use all 1500 watts and have never been able to get mine above room temp.

what you need to do is find someone with an o-scope. set your head unit to where you like it for pounding then turn up your sub amp untill you see clipping. then just don't go over that ever. when you want to be louder then get a real amp. but even with real amp you need to set up with an o-scope. to be honest i set mine up with an o-scope and then turned it down to about half of that. and i just run a q15 with a saz 1500d. it is too darn loud in my suv. quick question do you plan on running another amp for your front speakers? if not then in my opinion your all ready looking for too much bass. a bl is louder than my q, you better get a helmet and most of us have been in your position money wise. the best thing you can do is buy good stuff the first time, just get it one piece at a time. you cant aford to get something and find out it is not all that you wanted all of this advice has been good advice so far and if you follow it you will prob own your setup longer than your car. and having more power than you need sound great but you have to learn to only use what you need. good luck.

thanks big jon. i know that not everyone can get a o-scope , meters and freq counters. i already have them so why not help. it only took like 20 min for me to figure out the max to my head unit,sub and 4 ch amps. i think the best part for those without scopes would be getting to know the sound of clipping while watching it go in and out of clipping and to different % of clipping and then to where they thougt it was clipping by ear. all that i have shown this to can now hear that tonal change that you get as you start to clip, long before the level of distortion most think it is at. btw I'm not a snob I don't care who you are or what your setup looks like i'll still help . just don't be offensive while at my place and your fine <i'm a family guy> if your offensive and local i'll visit you at your house , ha ha and I'm in Enfield , Ct. so i could prob help some in Mass. also.

I live in ct. and am willing to help others set up thier amps and head units with my o-scope. it makes a difference knowing exactaly when you have distortion or clipping. if i can save even 1 good sub from death it will be worth it. i dont have alot of time on my hands but will help when i can.

congrats i bet you will be happy. when you first listen to it remember it needs to break-in. it will get better and better and better. i have been pushing mine as hard as i can take it as often as i can for a month + now. and it is still getting better, i would have been satisfied after week 2.

i have the q15 and love it. i think it has free shipping from fi. and i think it took like 9 days to get it after i ordered it for them to build it from scatch and shipping. well worth the wait !!!!!!! can't see getting much more sound quality with this much sound pressure i have mine running on a sundown saz-1500d and it loves it. the saz1500d is more than i need and more than the q15 needs so it is loafing {very clean signal} i would think that the sae1000 would be more than enough. i also tried my q15 on a 600w class a/b and it was pounding just fine... i have never heard SOnance so i can't help you compare good luck with what ever you choose.

i have 1 x fi-q15" d2 coil no option on a saz-1500d in my explorer and i have the amp turnd down so much you wouldn't believe it if you saw it . i first set it with the oscope to be nowhere close to clipping no matter what settings, then put the remote gain in and set it to music and after about three weeks use i have ended up at about 20-25 % on the remote. this setting is shaking my windows and sound great doing it. and honestly it will play lower than i care for so i set my subsonic filter higher. even when i show it off i only turn the remote to 40-50% tops. so i have no doubt that the saz1500d could power 2x q15" and sound great. by the way i have run my q ported and sealed and both sounded great and super loud. the bl might even be louder if you realy need it. maybe it an suv thing but thats my $.02 worth

i would definitely contact them for extra packing. mine came in what was left of a box. banged up with a nick in the cone. just left on my steps at front door. but this is one tough sub and plays fine. but for my next q15 i will talk to them about extra packing. i live in ct. and ups is just realy hard on packages here. also when i tracked my package the signature field said "met man" or something. now don't think that it was packaged porly because the box they use seemed like a good idea but once it colapses at all it no longer protected the sub. also ment no fi stickers for me bohoboho good luck and this is the best sub i have ever had by the way :->

smells like eggs , that sound like you have a batt inside your car and it either got over charged or over drained and boiled then smelled like old eggs. i would just play an mps player into your amp and see if it plays fine. then look into that head unit. good luck

i already put mdf pannles where the stock speakers went for some temp comps. i think i have my tweeters in the same spot as you held on with putty for testing. i have the map holder but thats not the problem,the powwer window motor unit is there. also if i put the midbass driver behind the mid then it is playing into the seat. i have a set of infinnity kappa comps for now but don't realy like them that much. any sugestions are there any comp set that wouldn't need a mid base{prob not} or three way with 6.5-8" midbass that would still rock and a seald back 3-4" mid that wont make me poor $$$ would it sound like poo to have midbass in stock loc half way up the door then put 3-4" seald back driver just over that and the tweeter up by the bottom corner of door window ?

what are people getting into their doors ? i dont mind some cutting and whatnot, but i'm not looking to make a whole new door skin. i had hoped to get a set of 6.5 comps and a mid base in the door. the comps look easy enough , but where could i put the mid base ? would it be bad to put the mid base in the back doors? or under seats ? any pics would go a long way for me. thanks

thanks m5, thats what i figured, but wanted to avoid. kicks in my suv would get beat to death. how bad is it going to sound if the kicks are not turnd upward, but just pointed toward the tranny ?{bad i'm sure} and i dont think i have enough depth in the doors for most midbass drivers, so thats why i was going to move the midbass rather than the mid/tweet. when i saw this explorer i thought to my self, wow look at all this room to work with for sound system. my jeep cherokee was better to work with.

thanks ku40, i didnt figure the mid bass would sound right in back doors. where did you put your tweeters? i'm not afraid to cut, but as i'm sure you have seen there is realy not much left to cut that is not covered up by seat , dash or door mechanicals. {power windows/lock mtr}

are the heat sinks grounded on sundown amps ? i would figure so but just checking. does anyone ground the case of thier amp?

hey dbjunior, i was wondering, you said to calculate port area before displacement. i have read to calculate after ALL displacements including port vol. just want to get this figured out for my self, any thoughts ?

i'm building two enclosures one sealed and one vented 3/4" mdf my dims are 17-18" high {could go either way a little bit more} 41" wide{also have room over the wheel wells if needed} depth as needed running off an saz 1500d i am looking for the best all around sound this will see all kinds of music at differing levels [daily driver, wife two kids} i'm not looking for every last .01 db but every once and awhile it will have to take a pounding would anyone be able to help me come up with a design for the ported ? any thoghts on the sealed, with those dims it will end up not very deep. is that a problem sound wise, with it being so slim and wide or should i make it more cube like? thanks for any help

now i see the diamond grills dail up so slow that the pic didn't finish untill after my response

what kind of grills are needed for the fi q 15 ? something strong to protect the sub. i have a suv and 2 kids, i don't want to worry about things getting thrown in back. most of the grills i have found don't have enough clearance for the full throw of the cone. looks are not an issue. if i can't find something soon i'm going to start welding my own.

where do i find those diamond grills? and why would my kid love them{almost afraid to know} also could the The high-clearance grills from Parts Express fit if you criss crossed two of them ? is there a reason no one uses grills ? is because of sound issues , poor looks or am i the only one with kids ?

can a one wire self exciting alt be wired to the same batt as the stock alt ? or can two stock alts run to the same batt ? or would they have to be two seperate power systems ?

thanks for the reply does it matter if the second alt is self exciting or stock? this will be a two batt setup, but all on one circuit now all i have to do is find dual alt brackets for 2000 xlt explorer or somewhere to cram one

ssd = Starter System Driver q = Quality bl = Being Loud btl = Being Too Loud fi = Final Investment good luck figuring it out