crf450r4u2nv

do you need to hook both rca's up when running bridged ? or could you just hook up ch3 ?

nope no rta or spectrum analizers,{ thinking about it} but i do have fluke dmm and clamp meters and an awsome oscope. enough to set your desired power level without clipping,or figure out your max power without clipping either way. also you would get to hear what it sounds like when it starts to clip while watching it on the oscope. could also tell you exactly how many amps your system draws. or how many amps your alt is pushing at the time. could also messure your impedance rise at a given freq if you plan to compete i run a 3way front stage + sub active and it is true flexibility, and also you can get so much more from each driver. cool that you already got your 100.4 your going to love it i bet. i would love to hear your icons some time. as you must know by now there isn't many around here that run this type of equipment to compare to. ................................................................................................................................................................................................ this is actualy part of a pm between 76 and myself just to clear up a few details. but this offer is good to anyone around here.

hey lucky where in ct are you ? i am in enfield. if you realy want you could swing by and try one of my 100.4's i'm sure you would be impressed enough to get your own. also when you get all setup i have all meters and oscope if you need. anything to help other sundown owners get the most out of there equipment without causing dmg . by the way i ran 2 channels of a 100.4 at 2ohm for awhile and it was no problem, it was still loafing. i also run one bridged to 2 channel at 4 ohm and it loves it . {midbass} for crossover flexibility the 100.4 is where it's at. i don't need all the power of my 2x 100.4d's but they give me the flexibility to do any setup i need.

thanks jacob, i know anything can happen. was just wondering how common it was to cause dmg from such abuse . before i take my chances with my favorate amps so far. if it is rare then i will take my chances and let it wang and if its semi common then i could change out amps just to finish off.

wierd ? i have a saz 1500d and was wondering, if i smell a woofer going up in smoke should i be shutting it down to prevent dmg to my amps ? or am i ok to just let it go up in smoke and push it harder untill it goes all the way . i know about the protection built into the amps but that doesn't allways mean that i'd be ok. if it is considered ok to smoke subs without dammaging the amp, could you safely burn sub after sub after sub and still be ok. would love to here jakes take on this too. i would never even consider this with any other amp, but these sundown amps are soooo darn tough that it dawned on me it might be posible. how about you guys at comps, when you blow subs how often does it take out the amps also? so anyways go ahead and tell me no way i'm crazy.

thanks sexysoundlabs for your response. i can't believe only 1 response with all those views.

i guess i should also add subs getting mechanicaly blown to this question, this might actualy be more risky than just thermal.

no matter what that is alot of power. you might want to think about 16v

thats what i was thinking would be perfect . but there is that waiting factor.

how about 2x saz3500d

if you can't get tinsel leads give me a pm. i don't have tinsel leads but i do have silver braid in different sizes. if your interested squish your old tinsel flat and measure how wide it is. you would be better off waitig for fi

I am not trying to cheap out. I am going to beef up the electrical and get a big secondary battery before I begin to order things. The only problem is is that not a whole lot of places carry imported (vw) alternators. I could be getting ripped off by going with the more expensive but less output alt. Or I could go with the less known company and pay less but could get a really good alt. Everybody (company wise) has to start somewhere. Fi is not a huge company (yet). I have not heard anything about them even though I go to dB races and SPL contests to just see what kind of rides people have (mainly in Wi and Chicago area). Now I am not saying that the 450+$ alternator is not good, I am sure it is. I know lots of people run DC power alternators. But look at Boss , they hype everything up and jack up the price. I am not saying DC does the same, but it could be. I hope I make sense. i am not trying to undercut / cheap out / complain / show up / make a fool of anybody / yada yada. The list goes on; what I am trying to do is get less known products to help out those who need it and are not well known. That is one of the reasons why I want to go all out with Fi, not lots of people know them. I know there is a lot of junk out there as well, so I am still looking around. I am giving PowerBastards a call Monday and ask generic questions (anybody know of any specific questions I should ask?). I will also be talking to the family mechanic to see what he thinks about it. Who knows, maybe if I beef up the electrical I may find some spair cash laying around and be able to go with a SAZ-3500 and a 18" BTL.... i recomend a good alt no mater what setup you end up with. if you plan to own your ride for more than 3yrs then its worth getting a real one like mechman or dcpower. (or others) you are going to need high idle output amperage more than total amperage.. i got a mechman rhino 250 alt. it is the best of mannnnnnny alts that i have owened<burned> it does everything great, higher voltage ,higher amperage, quiet, runs cooler and voltage stayes stable even at idle. so well that i put off the batt bank i wanted to add. just 1 xspower agm and all is well. now if you dont plan on keeping your car that long then try your luck, and let us know how you do. good luck

i bet your missing the jumper wires on the sub that are shown. you just put the speaker wires from amp. good luck

just solder it for now. bang the heck out of it then get a recone when you can. after recone it will be even better. by then you may even get an amp as nice as that subwoofer. if not how much you selling this one for blown. ?

that was an awsome response you still remember what its like to wait for a new toy, even as an adult.

and it sounds better than it looks

get another 100.4 and run a three way front active. then you could mix and match diy drivers for cheap. and keep up sound wise. my three way front gets loud because all drivers play only in there sweet spots. and show no signs of stress because of it.

another bridged ? only ch1 + ch3 need rca's to be fed to them correct ?

i have one of my 100.4 bridged on my mid-bass my question is if i hook up the remote gain will it only change 1 side {ch 3/4} or will it change both sides {ch 1/2 and ch3/4} ? i think only ch 3/4 will be changed.

thats what i thought, thanks sundownz.

i forgot to add that this is all by ear or feel not tl meters no problem, this stuff is so subjective its some times hard to give recomendations clearly also to get that hit your looking for you should look into midbass drivers up front.

i only have the one q15 but have played with it in ported-28hz and sealed, both enclosures at the large end of recomended size. ported was louder and still sounded great,at 28 hz it hit all the lows in music and could realy shake stuff. sealed had a smoother more even volume tone to it. it was almost as loud as my ported enclosure on music but took more power to do so. but it played much lower much lower.< too low for my likeing > so low that i set my subsonic filter to almost the same way i do for ported . otherwise it would play like a home theater sub.and on some songs it would rumble like sub audible notes now i mostly use the ported enclosure for daily use. space is not an issue for me so i run the ported enclosure for efficency. same sound less power needed. but i do swap back and forth as i build my system step by step. so my opinion is that two sealed will be louder if you have the amps and subs already , and have the alt + batt power to run all that then why not ? if you don,t have the electrical to suport all that then i would go 1 sub ported about 28hz. < still verry loud > and like said, the term "hit" is assosiated with upper bass not the sub 28hz range either way you should be loud , good luck

I got my amp from ups yesterday !!!!!!!!!! thanks for the quick easy transaction. amp looked like it had been opened and drooled on only. <joking this thing is new> i dont think it was even taken out of the box much less mounted . thanks for a great deal on another great amp. now i need to figure out where to mount this thing, and what new mid range driver i need now to blend in to my front stage.

cant go wrong with a fluke

fast fast fast got shipped right out and ups said it should be here tomorrow