4321loco

I'm new to this forum but anyways...I had a question on the termlab.....the basic termlab pro cost 650 or so, and the dual meter setup is only about $200 different which includes an additional meter and cable....like 800 or so can't remember but for the basic pack with no add on programs....next so if an additional meter and cat5 cable cost about under $200 does it mean the software is $450 and the termlab pro meter and wire are $200... termlab with software basic $650 non name brand with software $265 termlab extra cable and meter $200 no name brand rca cable and meter $82 maybe termlab over charges since you buying a name brand....Like most amps today that are class d same share design, made overseas like most amps, and made by same people, but the heatsick is diffrent style and brand name, but it's 2 times the cost and same power output....lol...ok back to this junk The meter on ebay cost $90 and the software $180, which is close to 50 percent of the actual cost of the software and hardware of the termlab pro $650 for 1 basic setup... The termlab and this meter box have a small box enclosure with suction cups...lol.... the termlab uses an ethernet cable vs the rca connection on this meter/sensor whatever it is... Not to sure once you buy the software package to this new meter if it will be rca to usb or phone jack i don't now yet... ALL I NOW THERE IS SOME HATERS OUT HERE WHO ONLY STICK TO THERE BRAND THEY GREW UP WITH....I SAY GTFO IF THE END RESULTS ARE THE SAME... I have competed using termlab systems, and i have seen diffrence's off 4 dbs using another so called... this termlab mic is just been calibrated...but the scores from the prevoius day or after noon still stand weather there meter was reading over... Anyways....For the price i think it's ok and affordable....Even though I feel like openig up both meters and comparing to see whats inside of each....the meters without software cost low i price to me, just that one brand is known more then the other thats it... SO IF YOU WANT A TERMLAB BUY THE BASIC KIT $650, MAKE COPY OF SOFTWARE AND INTALL IN YOUR PC....ORDER FOR $200 AN ADDITONAL METER AND CABLE LIKE THEY SALE... SALE YOUR TERMLABPRO TO YOUR BUDDY, AND USE THE EXTRA METER AND CABLE WITH YOUR OLD SOFTWARE YOU HAD INSTALLED, NOW YOU HAVE A $200 NEW TERMLAB SENSOR.....WOW.... SO IF YOU BUY A BASIC PACKAGE EMAIL THEM AND THEY WILL SALE YOU THE EXTRA SETUP...IF YOU DIDN'T BUY THE PACKAGE FROM THEM THEY WONT SALE YOU THE METER...THATS WHAT THEY EMAILED ME, KINDA...I DON'T LIKE TO COPY AND PASTE AND LIKE TO EXPRESS IN MY WAY.... SO WHATEVER YOU LIKE TO DO IS FINE, I THINK EITHER MIC IS GOOD,,THINK THE CALIBRATION TO TL IS EXPENSIVE AND TIME CONSUMING... PLUS IF YOU USE THIS TO CALIBRATE YOUR SPL VEHICLE, YOU WILL BENEFIT FROM TUNING YOUR CAR TO THE HIGHEST IT CAN ACHIEVE....SO IF YOU HIT MORE OR LESS AT THE TL YOU CAN EASY CALCULATE THE DIFFRENCE IF ANY TO THE RESULTS THIS METER GAVE YOU.... SO EVEN IF YOU USE EITHER METER AT A SHOW, THE ONLY WAY TO RAISE THE SCORE HIGHER AFTER A TERMLAB RESULT WOULD BE TO ADD MORE POWER OR EQUIPMENT... MY CONCLUSION So if you want to tune a vehicle you can use any meter you can afford from these 2.. If you use a termlab the db's it reads may or may not match the shows tl meter eve though you will kinda now were your score sis at..Calibrations may be needed and not all calibrations are exact but close..Also most spl shows say it is a new meter that was calibrated but who nows... anyways I'm just seeing if you understand what i typed and hope this answer some questions....The tl was chosen so that all meters would be identical in reading methods, but do require calibrations....We don't now what meter is more accurate but we still use termlab as it was chosen from the a group of meters they had there eyes on..that way people won't say i hit 3 db's more on the other meter i want that score...lol... so I suggest you get one to tune, if you don't have a spl meter there is no point in competing, as one more could hurt your score dramatically...Either a tl or this meter is fine...Both look the same and read about the same... anyways I'm a bit behind schedule and have a few amps to repair or troubleshoot cya guys any questions please post..

I just want to say I'm new to this forum..I'ma try to help as many people as I can when i can and hope when I reach a dead end to get help also...I have built many sq and spl cars over the past years...Most vehicles I have worked on are from the lower texas area... Anyways guys good luck and any help you need let me now 8 years custom fabrication and amplifier repair...

thats 4 ohm minimal, but depending on your music will determine whne it will pop, if you use somethig with to much current draw i saw under 5 minutes, its similar to the zeus 7 model but i think it has 2 less outputs per channel.... zed will still repiar that amp, its old..lol

wow for my birthday i'ma send him my 2 sons of colossus that were fried by this dumbas shop that wanted to use them for a comp....anyways he told me turn around time under a week so lets see what happens...

I've actually used a similar roofing material, they come in rolls of 12 inchs by 5 feet.....got them at my local hardware store...installed all over car...My car actually won many sq shows, no rattles at all, never came off, once it sticks its hard to come off...And thicker then dynamate and rammat, w/e....If you have money to throw i say use name brands, if you can't afford the good stuff, use the cheap stuff....its like most people think because an audio company ruled many years thats its products still do, even though they are made over sea's...not much stuff made in usa.. anyways...I had excellent succs rate on this item i used, so I saw use it if you want, makes your car sound better, less road noise...and heavier like all damping materials have a good day, any ?'s please message me back... I may be new to this forum but and wildly known over other sites... I also run my own install and repair shop...

my kicks had a 6.5 dynavox home speaker, similar specs to dynaudio, same frame but cost less then half the price, used a 2 inch dome midrange in the kik also with a 1.5 inch seas tweeter in the a pillar....and my sound of mids actually dominates many peoples speakers setups.....the midbass 6.5 uses a 3 inch voice coil, 140 rms each, the mid range 80 watts, the tweeter 80 wattsost 500 rms watts on a custom 3 way system with a custom made crossover, and yes kick do help bring out the sound if you aim them correct, if they aim downward, they will suck...anyways good work dude

i made a box for my dodge neon was only 1/2 inch to big, would not fit in the truck, luckly i was able to remove the rear seats and it mine through there before i modded my box

i use winisd google it, but it only gives you the port size, dept, and the cubic feet of box tuned to your specs

i used winsid , google it down, add your subs specs and bam....i make all my spl boxes with that and i have never failed at placing, no matter what category i'm in...neat free program

i think it is, here in mexico the model is chevy this is an image is the same as the opel i think so. actually the box is all redy made, i put in 2 10" kicker cvr dvc 4ohms and a memphis mojo 2kw old school att 1 ohm , my wiring is 4 lines of 0 Gauge 2+ , 2- i make 144.1db with the oem battery. the subs do not support that power is to much in the 8 burp smelle like hot cake i will put a pair of RE SX DVC of 2ohms to put the mojo at .5ohms and a hc2000 of kinetik or a nsb75 by northstar i will test any way thanks for the advice. what part of mexico you from, Im from monterrey, san nicolas, but i moved to texas....little sound systems in those cars bump