buggsson

Audison Bit-1 when you're ready, will let you do tons of settings, and up to a 4-way if you like.

Don't forget that crossovers are not brick walls.Brick walls, not that I know I would use them if I had them, depends on how they would perform, but does anyone know of any brick wall crossovers for car use yet? I haven't seen steeper filters than 4th order for cars.

In this case it has to do with sound-waves and how they react when bending around (the baffle) corners. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diffraction I didn't expect it to be of importance, but since it apparently is, I will take the precautions I can when I get there.

So, is diffraction an issue in car audio as well? I'm thinking both of front systems and sub boxes in particular.

What makes the Qs suitable for vented applications?

So, which program is it, and are there similar programs around?

I would use one of these: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biscuit_joiner and clamp like crazy while it dries. Rock solid joints without screws.

So, I have come down to 3 sets of comps to do my final choice from. And up til the time I do my final choice, I would like to have some suggestions what to look for in amps, that would do these three 2-way kits justice. They are: DLS Iridium 6.2i Hertz MLK165 Morel Elate 6 I'm planning, at least finally to give the woofers a minimum of 200-250 clean watts to play with, so I've been contemplating running a 4-channel bridged for the woofers, and a separate 2-channel amp for the tweeters. For now, what I'm looking for is sweet matches between front system and amps, nothing more. Budget, is not fixed, but as little as possible and still be a nice match for the comps.

You haven't stated what Qtc you are aiming for. If you would considering 0.707 (the classic one) or the 0.8 I've been told should sound even better in a car, you could use two of the following regarding that you have 5 ft^3 to play with?: (0.707 or thereabout) Ascendant Audio Havoc 15" (0.8 or thereabout) Audiotop Nemesis WN 15.4D CSS SDX15 Revolution Design Audio Sonance V.2 SoundSplinter RL-p15 D4 The SSA Icon 15 looks to land right in between the two groups.

I don't think having the amp on the box is recommended, too much vibrations.

I would use two of these sealed: Exodus Audio Shiva-X, they will move massive amounts of air and use the XBL^2 motor, hopefully linear enough.

I would say it's up to you how important they are, I'd say they will get you where you want faster, if you can have them at all. As you've mentioned already, not every manufacturer care to publish much data, not even important parameters such as Le to take your example. Some don't even give Sd, etc, etc. It's a bad attitude taken by them, in my mind. Myself, I cannot get to much data about a driver.

That's just the case, more power.

Then this issue about interference must be just another well known "fact" in the audio world that is not true? Personally however, I would never put a signal cable close to a power cable as long as "well known" personalities in both car and home audio claim you can pick up "noise". Why take a chance? I always use both suspenders and a belt. Better safe than sorry. That is why I will also go with tripple shielded RCAs when the time comes.

So how did it go? Let us know.

Depending on how hungry your 6.5"s will be for power, you might want to consider a 6-channel amp as an additional option? Then you can bridge two channel-pairs and run your tweeters on the remaining channel pair? Maybe that's just me, but my experience is that reputable amps doing 4x200W+ for example, if needed, are not that easy to find.

I don't know how far that would help your application, but there is something called stretch vinyl. Maybe you could try to find a small piece and see how much it stretches? I just got to know there is also something called "super stretch".

Sorry I cannot help you out, I have a -04 Variant and would like the same info. If it takes a long time before there is a reply here, I might have to venture out into the unknown myself...... Anyone know how much wire you are likely to need?

If you are concerned with the dB's, you might want to take into consideration, that damping you roof can rob you of some of the precious dB's. Not every install, but it do happens.

It's not that easy, lower the ohm and get that much more power, not proportionally anyway. As your ohm goes down, efficiency goes down as well, maybe not as much, but you will not flat out gain what you think you will.

I would say it's a hopeless case until your specs arrive. Whithout specs, you cannot really tell if ported or sealed would be your best option to start with. Do post the specs on arrival, am interested in these drivers, but need the specs to see if interest should stay or go.

Whats the file format?

Have you tried them both, hands on? I did, and I didn't like the Pioneers at all, I preferred the Alpine style of layout and buttons etc.

What direction would that be, that you don't want to take? Both of these drivers have solid rep.

It will also include time alignment, for compensating that you are bound to end up on unequal distances from your speakers, which you remedy with this feature. You will have more options to adjust the sound to your satisfaction and in a more convenient way, as many of the present processors can/must be set from a portable computer.