buggsson

Yes you both, you hit it right, I am worrying far too much, my dilemma, always. I am just trying to figure out how to approach "car audio nirvana" as close as possible, without the slightest hope of even coming close, but still, trying. Considering subs, I just wanted to try to figure out what range of F3 values that would give a reasonable bass response in my car. My largest worry concerning subs, is where can I start to get to expect boominess, and where does bass start to disappear? There are so many drivers now to choose from, so I tried to limit the number of prospects. To take the Rl-p 15" as an example, with the box calc software I use, I cannot get it to go lower than 43.5 Hz sealed, will that suffice? But I will stop worrying now, I guess it is time for descision instead.

What about lower still F3s, in the 35Hz neighborhood, isn't there a risk for boominess at those levels? And how high can one go? Would you say you are safe with F3s between 35-45Hz? As you can see, I am quite number fixated at the moment. And yes, it's a good suggestion to start out with a larger box to go smaller if needed, I will have that in mind when the time comes.

Hertz MLK 165, Morel Elate or DLS UR6i or DLS Nobelium 6.2

You've got to put your tweets in context with your mids for optimum results. I've heard that for best stereo imaging, you should have your tweeters no further away from your mids than 6". Many like to put them in the A-pillar.

Why is it that some claim the rl-s would be more geared towards home theater than car use? I don't think the box requirements are that large for the 12", power requirements though, might be another matter.

If one goes by the SS recommendation of 2.5 ft^3 for sealed, where does that land you in way of Qtc and F3? And if you want to play around yourself with some software and the rather odd T/S parameters for this driver, how do you go around doing it?

Would that be a general consensus? I thought they had a solid reputation??? Have you experienced it yourself?

Carpower Sonic-12 Elevation Audio Pro12 IA Flatlyne 12 RE Audio SE12

I don't think you will find anything that good with less weight for a better price than BB. I would definitely go with BB. If weight is of large concern for you, would you consider make a thin wooden box and then glass fiber or epoxi laminate it, inside out? That way you would get a very stiff box, and reduced weight.

What is a SI BM? The constant use of abbreviations is killing me Why not a Treo SSI, to me they seem much better suited for a sealed?

If you want managable sizes on your horn, try a tapped horn, can be calculated by hornresp (free) much info can be had in the sub section at diyaudio.com With a tapped horn and the right driver, you are in the border zone for what can be done in a trunk. For a larger vehicle, approx 150 cm long and 50 cm diameter will rock

For whatever they are, here you can check them out for your self: http://gspeakers.sourceforge.net/ http://sourceforge.net/projects/xlds/ This one costs some money, not that much, but it only runs under OS 9: http://www.trueaudio.com/mac_abt1.htm

There actually might be two. I'll check when I return home from work. There used to be two, Unix like, I never installed any of them, we'll see if they still are around, and I do not know much about features and such.

While your'e at it, why not try sideways as well? I've seen that suggested and claimed to be the best option sometimes. It's not that much work, just a bit of listening.

I haven't realized that the install would be that important, but I do have realized that speakers are much more important than the amps. Then I can relaxe, about the amp. business, I think I have more than enough to choose from, and do some finetuning in the speaker department instead.

What about channel separation, is it important when shopping for a car amp? If so, minimum value? What am I supposed to look for when choosing among the different makes and models? Which parameters, par price is most important? I would like to get suggested minimum and maximum values where appropriate. Values are for me like a walking stick, I doubt my progress without it/them. Not as face value, but more as a guidance. This is just for the gross sorting phase, to keep the numbers of prospects as low as possible. I am looking for a 4 channel amp, with at least 4 x 100W @ 4 ohm to drive my front system. The amount of information on some home pages are appallingly sparse, I think it's remarkable that they sell any units at all, and then there are some that seem to have it all, how hard can it be? I guess the power supply is of importance, but I've only seen specs once, for me, thats odd.

That is my problem, being inexperienced, I really do not know how to go about selecting equipment, as you have noticed, but I have a lot of fun during my forays on the internet. That's why I appreciate forums, where more experienced folks can steer me in a more proper direction when needed. And yes, I am very thourough when I do anything, so lots of research will go into the install when I finally get going. Even though, I will not strive to perfection on this one, my first, as I only see it as a primer for my next project, that will be when we get a new car. Which part of an install, would you deem to be the most difficult?

Well, I've heard of fabricated data, and what I have been trying to do, is go for brands that I've heard could be trusted, but I do not really know if I've picked the correct ones. I was using numbers because that way I could scan many more products than any other way I could think of, because I like to do some looking by myself to start with and then ask for advice, but I might be better or doing the reverse in the future? Anyway, my budget in total, including eventual shipping etc, is around 700 US. I have compiled a smallish list with 4 ch. amps that I think I can afford, or squeze into my budget if I have to. I would really like to get a cheaper amp and put more money on my front speakers (that I don't know which yet). Any thoughts about any of them, pros and cons? (I have only looked for amps that are said to be able to deliver 4x100W into 4 ohm, with the Celestra as an exception, I think I can get to listen to it in a supposedly very nice install.) I might have forgotten to tell, but the amps are for a smallish SQ install. The amps are as follow: Alpine PDX-4.150 DigitalDesigns DDC-C4a Celestra FA475 DLS RA40 Helix P400 Precision Mac Audio ZX 4500 Mac Audio Fearless 4000 (14,4V) Massive Audio Pro P800.4 SPL Dynamics S-6004 Sundown Audio SAX-100.4 US Amps. Merlin 43 US Amps. XT-1600.4 VIBE BlackBox Stereo 4 VIBE Slick A4 If I also could get someone to explain the differences between the pairs from the same manufacturer, I would be highly pleased! PS. Why I initially posted this subject was that I had a Carpower amp in mind very much, and then I saw it only had something like 45 dB in channel separation, and to me, that sounds like nothing, please, do correct me if I was wrong!

Most boxes flex, and the minimum I would do would be like this: http://www.creativesound.ca/pdf/sealed-SDX15-131107.pdf I hope the guys at Creative Sound doesn't mind, but their plans are great. Some very serious builder said he never built a box that had a larger unbraced surface of 4". Calculating the shelf bracing is easy, if cumbersome, just measure the volume of each shelf and calculate each cylinder shape that you remove, add them up, and subtract.

Where can I find a reseller of Treo amps and speakers? I have Googled twice, and came up with nothing. I just want to find out pricing for now, as Treo are a bit slow sometimes with responding. Thanks

I don't know where you got that info. from, but it is not correct, at least not east of the atlantic. Here are a couple of examples on what can be had over here: 1220 x 2440 mm 1220 x 3050/3660 mm 1250 x 2500 mm 1250 x 3000/3600 mm 1500 x 1500/2400/2500/3000/3600 mm 1525 x 1525/2440/2500/3050/3660 mm Max thickness = 30 mm (21 ply) it goes 25,4 mm to an inch. Info from here: www.wisa.com Another aspect of why I do not plan to use MDF is the dust, not healthy at all, and additional alleged advantages, quite a few posts over at diyaudio.com concerns this issue.

Anyone know if Trupan might have another name as well? I tried to google something up here in Sweden, but nothing. So one reason to go with Trupan over BB would be less tool wear, is it also easier to work with as when compared to MDF? Additional advantages?

Hi all, I am a male residing in Sweden. Music has always been important to me, and now I have realized that the car will be the optimum place to have good sound, as I am often alone in it...... SQ is my interest and my aim.

I am also into metal so this thing about good mids is very interesting. Can one have good enough results with 6,5" which was my first thought, or is it better to go with an 8"? I was suggested in the beginning of the thread some PA brands like B&C, would those kind of drivers be better for this kind of application, or not? Should I stick with "car" driver makers? An 8", no problem with crossing, to sub or tweeter? And for you who likes Arch Enemy, check out Carcass, saw them live at a swedish festival this summer. Michael Amott is playing the guitarr, and they had also borrowed the AE drummer as well as the original drummer wasn't well enough for live gigs yet. Soooooooo good!!! I also recommend Entombed and Candlemass, and newer material by Cathedral, and Wolf.

EKG, or elektrocardiogram, can bee seen here: http://visualjunkie.multiply.com/video/ite...EKTROCARDIOGRAM