jcardin

Do the seats go down that you could slide in in that way? Are you sure, 35w and 16.5H will fit? Are you looking for Slot or round port? using http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/home/bo...ideboxcalc.html plug in 35,16.5,17,17,.75,3.5,3 for the red values and you get fox volume of 4.1 tuned freq of 34.6, and a final box size of 35W, 16.5H and 18 Depth. Still don't know if that'll fit in your trunk though.

I just installed my SAX100.4 and when I was hooking up the Power/Ground I got a spark. I had hooked up the ground first and was undoing the screw for the positive connection on the amp. I guess the side of the screwdriver touched the the side of the amp and the positive screw at the same time and sparked a little. The amp works but I can't think of why it did this. Anyone care to enlighten me? Also, I was wondering what exactly the remote knob controls? Is it gain or bass boost?

go to options on the top/right and change the display type style to standard. Mine was on outline, which doesn't work for me.

Good Job on your first build. It's fun working with it and learning how things like this work together. When you designed the box and port, what frequency were you trying to tune to?

Do I need to set the gain on the amp to any certain level to be able to use the remote? Or would it just override what ever setting the amp has? oh, and thanks all for reviewing the spark issue.

That's why I'm posting it here. I wasn't expecting it and don't understand why it happened. I can see why you'd doubt, it didnt make sense. I didn't know if the amps hold some charge on the positive side of something. I taped up my screwdriver to finish the rest of the install. I had battery hooked up normal. I had the ground connected from the chassis to the amp. The positive didn't have the fuse in and the connection wasn't made. The on/off wasn't hooked up. I did have the RCA's in but the car was off. Just the connection from the + screw to the chassis made the spark.

OK, I did get a little lazy, I didn't have the battery unhooked, but all I had at this point was just the Ground hooked up and there wasn't any positive anywhere within 3 feet. I wasn't expecting it to spark since I didn't have any positive. I guess I was just plain wrong. Lesson learned, the cheap way.

Cross over theory cross over calculator If it were me (a lazy person with more $ than brain cells) , I'd skip the trouble of making sure I got the crossovers done right find a way to either get another 100.2 (refurb maybe $200 at DB-R?) or find a way to trade/sell your 100.2 for a 100.4.

cool, thanks!

I just got my refurbed 100.4 and got 3 quick questions. 1. I have existing 8 gauge power and ground that connect to the primary battery less than 3feet from the amp. I would like to run this amplifier initially to power a subwoofer 4ohm off of chan 3/4 and leave chan 1/2 empty. Would this be ok? I would upgrade to 4 gauge when I hook up the front 2 chan. 2. I have a pair of RCA's from my sub out on my HU. Is this going to provide enough signal or does this amp require all 4 rca's to be hooked up. I think they should be ok, but just wanted to ask. 3. On the cross over pots, they are marked as 50hz to 500hz. Is it safe to assume that it if I placed the pot in the middle I'd get 225hz, and then If I placed in between the '250' and the 50 that I'd get 112 hz? Thanks John

Let me just make sure I was clear on number 2. If I was JUST running Chan3/4 for a sub and not using 1/2 would I still need the 4 rca's to be hooked up? And would you still recommend going 4gauge when I do move to using all 4 chan? And...Thank you for the quick reply. John

Just to start off, I'm building this for the heck of it and recently picked up an inexpensive Memphis audio 15-ms84 to build a box around. This box might be placed in a car just to see what it will do but will stay mostly in the office. The pictures should give you an idea what I'm trying to do, and should show most of the specs of the box. Basically using an 8.25" x 1" slot port that is 23" in length with a tuning around 38 hz. The box volume is .59 f^3. The response curve seemed to have an nice flat-ish shape that hopefully will make it sound 'full' to the Fs. If I'm doing something completely wrong, please let me know - Gently please. Thanks John

I beleive "Fisher" and "Pound that sound" could probably both work with you. They appear to be forum sponsors and have thier own sub-forums. edit: if you were looking for someone in Orange County then nevermind

+1

Did it dry ok? I used some 3m stuff and it has remained tacky even after a few weeks. Do you remember what brand you used?

stoled from here: http://www.klausaudio.com/subwoofer-box-ar...-slot-ports.php Many people question what the difference is between flared ports and slot ports. There are fairly basic differences between the two, and depending on your situation, one might suit you better than the other. The common purpose of the two ports is that they must be the correct length for the particular subwoofer box to achieve the desired sub box tuning. There are a few differences that may help in your decision between flared and slot ports for your custom subwoofer box. Flared ports are very good at virtually eliminating port noise. Port noise is the noise created by the friction of air moving through the port. If you have sharp edges on a port (as with standard round ports, which we do not use), you are going to have significantly more port noise than with a flared port. A flared port requires the smallest acceptable port area for a subwoofer box. Since the ends are flared, and the inside of the port is round (no sharp edges), it is unlikely you will be able to notice any port noise from the subwoofer enclosure. However, if you are running a large, high-powered subwoofer, you will want to use two flared ports. A single flared port is still capable of creating port noise when very large amounts of air pass through it. With a slot port, you can use as much port area as needed for your application, which is especially helpful in SPL applications. A slot port requires more port area than a flared port to minimize port noise. We generally use a rule of 12 square inches of port area per cubic foot of internal volume of the custom sub box. You may go with a larger port area, but this will increase the total volume and length of the port. In turn, a large port area will mean an increase in the total size of your subwoofer box. Slot ports are the standard for our ported custom subwoofer boxes. If you are not limited on space, we would recommend going with a slot port for your subwoofer box. If space is tight, and you have a few extra bucks, you'll probably want to use a flared port (or two, depending on your subwoofer size and power). It is possible to achieve the same result from both subwoofer boxes, so the decision between flared ports or slot ports depends on your specific needs for your custom subwoofer box.

What finish is on this box. It looks nice!

So keep my internal volume the same and use some sort of snaking like the pic above? edit; Ok I model'd up something that I'll post a little later. .6 cf with 29 hz tuning, I was able to get my 54" of port and looking at the graph, I'm kinda excited about this. I've always been a sealed kind of guy but just comparing the response of my sealed id10v3 in winisd against the 8" ported, the 8 looks way better in the 50-20hz range. like 12 db higher at 30 hz.... Sure it's 5 db down at 75hz but who cares!

ok, gotcha on the port ratio. But if you don't mind, let me ask that when I make my port larger, (assuming the same Fb) the port is made longer, and if I tune to 30 or lower I get an even longer port. Is there a trick that I'm missing, because I get really really long ports that don't even fit the box. Would I need to make the box larger to accomidate this or should I make my port area smaller or what? (I'm guessing no on the smaller port area) I wouldn't use this for movies, mostly music. I do appreciate the help. John

I've been keeping an eye out for amps lately with the intent to buy a sax-100.4 but looking at crutchfield they have a p450.4 which is rated at 60x4 for a pretty good price. I looked at ampguts and it seemed to look pretty sparce inside, but I'm no engineer so what do i know? I would run this amp with the front 2 running generic 6.5 speakers on the front and the rear 2 bridged to an id10v3 D2. What do y'all think? Thanks John

Hello, I am looking at a 100.4 to run my entire system with CH1/2 running a full range component set and Ch3/4 bridged to a subwoofer. I see in the owners manual that the HPF is a 12db filter but coundn't see what the subsonic is. My primary question is that since there is some overlap in these two filters if I wanted to filter out the fronts at say 60 hz is there a reason to pick one or the other to use or to use a combination of the two? Thanks John