jcardin

On my wife's 2001 (job2) we've replaced the "elbow" that is on the front of the PVC tube that is a known and very common issue. http://www.mysporttrac.com/shared/msgboard9e.asp?BOARDNAME=MSG&VIEW=1167893&REPLYCOUNT=3&sitename=mysporttrac We also replaced (separately) the DPFE sensor. This is another common problem.

Curious on where you're gonna put the box. My wife drives one of these and short of taking out a seat, I can't find a good way to get a decent size sub and box in there.

All you have to do is add 1 of every part in the store to your cart and then just refresh your cart every 15 seconds. Viola!

This is just like when the Beatles came to iTunes.

It sounds like you might be limited to one of the prefabbed boxes and 2 10's sealed. You could go fiberglass like this guy and then maybe do some sort of riser on the seat for a little more airspace for maybe 12's. http://www.fiberglassforums.com/subwoofer-boxes/13988-dodge-ram-underseat-sub.html I guess the thing would be to push as much power as you can do them. Where are you thinking about mounting the amp(s). Is is a split rear seat? Perhaps you could remove half of it and then have you baby and your bass? I would imagine that an upholster could probably fix whatever fabric damage is done.

Parts Express has a 12" sealed box for $40. It used to be cheaper. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-644 Drop a Grill on it $10 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-443 drop a 450 Watt amp on it $99 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=269-189 - Free shipping for your whole order Drop a cheaper efficient 12" woofer in it $79.99 Shpped http://www.woofersetc.com/p-8144-ref-tm122-12-tidal-audio-subwoofer-dual-2-ohm-oem-by-image-dynamics.aspx And you are out for less than $230.

I've recently acquired a 96 LS400. After reading about how the wiring of this particular model I feel like I could easily tap into the Factory Headunit signals and run the wiring needed to power and signal to my trusty Sax.100.4. The plan so far is to keep the factory headunit, upgrade the subwoofer, eventually upgrade the front components, use the 4 channel to power the sub and front speakers and use the factory amp to power the rear door speakers that can be faded off if necessary. I'm not sure what to do about the sub section. This model has a 8" sub mounted in the rear deck, powered by a 30ish watt amplifier. I would like more bass than this factory setup can provide. I'm used to and mostly happy with what I've had in the past which has been an ID10V3 in a ported box at 32HZ and a Tidal Audio 12 in a sealed box. They were both about equal in terms of output with the 12 being a little more robust. Both were powered by the rear channels of the 100.4. I still have both subs. My thoughts were to conserve trunk space and to install the amp and possibly rig up either the 10 or the 12 in place (probably a mount from below) of the factory 8. I understand that neither sub is appropriate for an IB setup but I was wondering what y'all would think of this setup. The amp would could push 300 watts or so to the sub. I really want to stay away from having a box taking up the space as I typically carry car seats and stuff in the trunk. Also I'm not sure how to mount this amp. It's a little to big to mount to the sides of the trunk and it would seem like it would fit on the "back wall" of the trunk. The only problem is that there is a gas tank mounted behind the factory panel and I don't know how to mount a board that I could attach the amp too. Does anyone have any ideas on how this is normally done? Pics maybe? Any help would be appreciated. John Similar mounting like this (not mine install but like my car)

How much $$ do you have to spend? It sounds funny to say that you want 'not too big' and pick then pick an 18" BTL and want to push it with 2500 watts

Let's see what the back of it looks like. I went to archive.org and looked at some of thier older webpages but couldn't see the front's on all of the subs on the cached pages. it seems like MA put more unique-ness into the magnet so that might help you identify it easier then the front.

I bought a sax1004 a couple years ago from DB-r and not a lick of issues. Been thru 2 accidents and hasn't stopped working. I would have no issue buying again from them/him.

How about a pair of Tidal Audio 12? Should work with the power that you use and runs 160 for the pair shipped. I'd also be temped by the 187 15"

There's not much of a question here other than"Help me". Do you need someone to build a box for you? Design a box for you? Build a custom fit 'stealth" box for you? There are several online apps that will design a box for you. There are several vendors here on the forum that will design and build a box for you. Take a peak around the forums and check them out. . I beleive you are reading the box spec's incorrectly. The 25hz that they call for on a sq oriented box build is for the subsonic filter not the tuning frequency. Thier box calls for a 30hz tuning based on a 3 cube box with a 4" port that's 9.75 inches long. You could easily build a box then throw a 4" aero port in there for a first time easy build. That would make it easier to design and build.

I went by the shop and they quoted $60. I'm gonna go by later this week and talk to their box Guy and see what he thinks.

You know looking at the site they claim to be bbb accredited but the bbb says they are not. I would be worried with scam fraud with caraudiogiants.com. Keywords SCAM and Fraud associated with caraudiogiants.com

Kinda late to be asking advice I would imagine that with the appropriate power and careful use you'll get years of service from them. Its typically abuse (clipping and overexcursion) that'll kill woofers. You'll find more people on this site that will tell you to cancel and order something else than to stick with kenwoods If you keep them have fun building a box.