scrapiron

I accidentally deleted my photo bucket. So my pictures are gone. I apologize. I will try to put them back. I didn't not care one bit about this speaker. This speaker just replaced a blown floor speaker in my living room that doesn't receive that much power and desoldering braid works just fine in that situation. Again sorry about the pics ill work on getting them back up. If I cant, I do have a video of it and can host it.

Sh!t, Just realized that. WELP... Same situation applies, a speaker is a speaker. But yes, I was confused.

I could be wrong, but I think the amp Isn't stable meaning too big of a load on your amp. Here are your amp specs. Amplifier Output Details - 125 Watt - 2 Ohm - 2 channel(s) WHICH MEANS WIRED IN (STEREO) - 250 Watt - 4 Ohm - 1 channel(s) WHICH MEANS (RIGHT AND LEFT CHANNELS BRIDGED) If you are bridging 2, 4 OHM subs on your amp, That would be a 2 OHM load on the amp. Which your amp is not capable of. In addition, crossovers shouldn't affect what your amp can handle. I had a similar problem. Just wire the speakers in (STEREO MODE) and tell me if the amp still cuts out. Yes It wont sound as loud and stuff, but its probably the only way to run your speakers without the amp cutting out.

that boy is LOW Agreed!!! Ever since I bought my 4Runner I have learned to hate anything low to the ground. I enjoy sitting up high!

Thanks all!!! This is funny! I lived in Lansing Michigan for 13 years (basically grew up there) It is also where that Firebird came from. So needless to say it had a ton of rust underneath from the salt roads in the winter time. Which after 20 years ruined it. Hope to see you all around.

Hey guys! I'm the one that made the "How to" on tinsel lead repair which you guys sticked here: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=19673 So, I figured I'd finally come in here and introduce myself. Im 28 years old, Live in Houston Texas, and have always loved anything related to car audio. Heres some of what I had done to a 1986 Pontiac Firebird I used to own. Everything custom built and installed by me. "The Bird" Amp Rack. Various amps, Distribution blocks, Also a capacitor due to headlight dimage and less wear on the alternator. (I have black lights in side the amp rack box that shine down on to the speakers at night.) 2, Digital Audio. 1000 watt 4 Ohm Dual voice coil Extended Low Frequency Drivers. The Firebird was costing too much money to keep running at 20 years old so I recently got rid of it and got a new Toyota SR5 4X4 4Runner. I then transfered the same system from the Firebird to the 4Runner. The whole system fit amazingly well from a Firebird to a S.U.V. With very little modification. Kenwood MP3 Player, Rockwood 7 band Passive EQ. (Rockwood sucks but its an EQ who cares) Same system from Firebird in 4Runner

Wow, Stickied! thanks. I like this web site and meant to post in a few other threads but haven't had the time. But I will here soon.

This "how to" I made may help... http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...t=0#entry402183

I searched the web looking for a "how to" on fixing Tinsel leads and couldn't find one. So I made one myself and would like to share it with the car audio community. (I will be cross posting this "how to" other web sites.) Don't throw that sub away just because the leads broke! Here's how to fix them. Finding new leads can be a pain, and this is just a "how to" video. So I will just be using De soldering braid instead of replacement tinsel leads. De soldering braid will work in place of real leads, but not for long. This can be a bit time consuming and will take some patience. I'll use this old sub I had laying around for this. Start by going around the dust cap with any tool that has a flat edge. BE VERY CAREFUL!! Eventually the dust cap will begin to release it's self from the cone. The 2 little black gobs of CA glue you see, are where the tinsel leads come through the cone and attatch to the voice coil leads. Start at the top of each gob of CA glue. THAT'S AWAY FROM THE CENTER OF THE SPEAKER! Begin working the CA glue away from the cone. It kinda peels up on Its own once you get it going. Go slow. Don't just go to town on it! The coil leads are very delicate. You'll eventually begin to see the tinsel leads. De-Solder the tinsel leads from the speaker terminals (If still attached lol) At this point you have 2 options. 1) If your leads are not totally fried, I recommend leaving a portion of the original tinsel lead attached to the voice coil leads. Its a lot easier to solder your new leads to a portion of the old ones than straight to the coil leads them selves. - In this case, pull the tinsel leads through the cone. Then cut off all excess old tinsel lead ACCEPT for just enough to solder your new leads to. 2) Your leads are totally fried. - In this case, continue to remove the remaining CA glue from the tinsel leads down towards the voice coil. Be very careful at this point!!! As you can see the voice coil leads are very thin, and can be broken very very very easily. Ok now that you have removed the rest of the CA glue. De-solder the tinsel leads from the voice coil and remove them. Then run your new leads through the cone. Position them for soldering and cut to length. Its time to solder all your connections. DO NOT USE TOO MUCH SOLDER, THE LEADS WILL WICK UP THE SOLDER AND BECOME STIFF! fLEXIBILITY IS WHAT YOUR AFTER! After you have done all your soldering. Finish by covering your connections under the dust cap by replace the gobs of CA glue on them. I just used a 2 part epoxy. Clean off the excess old adhesive from the dust cap. A Dremmel tool with a sanding wheel comes in handy. Then replace the dust cap with the same epoxy you used for the connections under the dust cap. Install the sub back into your box, and enjoy! I hope this helps people out there! - Scrapiron