pipes

My heart goes out to you and your family. You'll get through this and continue to be thankful that he is in a better place now.

Did you call and ask JBL?

That's the only it can happen since the top plate is still inline with the slugs and bottom plate, that's really hard to do because the motor is held on with epoxy, and there are 6 6-13mm bolts bolting the motor to the basket. It's possible I'm wrong but that's what it looks like. I knew about the epoxy; just assumed that because it had moved the epoxy must have failed. I forgot that there might be bolts that go through the whole assembly. I've never seen a large motor that wasn't bolted, but I'm not positive how SS does theirs. He just told me that when he got the box it was on it's side despite all the arrows pointing upright. I'm not sure what good it will do but I told him to try and file a claim. I shipped it insured obviously, though without obvious signs of damage to the box (which is the only thing my crate seems to have protected) I doubt they'll do anything. I have seen videos / pics online of subs taken apart with bolts through the motor.. I'd hate to think how much sheer force would be needed to snap all the bolts that would be going through there.. I rather believe it's just epoxy and that the epoxy failed. But I'd like to believe santa clause exists, too.

That's the only it can happen since the top plate is still inline with the slugs and bottom plate, that's really hard to do because the motor is held on with epoxy, and there are 6 6-13mm bolts bolting the motor to the basket. It's possible I'm wrong but that's what it looks like. I knew about the epoxy; just assumed that because it had moved the epoxy must have failed. I forgot that there might be bolts that go through the whole assembly.

It didn't cross my mind that there might be snapped bolts in there..

I think you should link to the picture. I'm the guy who sold / shipped the sub. I'm as pissed as werling here that this happened. After seeing the picture of the shifted motor I can only imagine that they shipped it on the truck on it's side despite the numerous markings on the box indicating "this way up". I shipped it cone down, with a sheet of 1/2 inch MDF on top of 2 inches of foam spaces and then 1 inch spacers between the sub and the MDF sheet which the sub was screwed down to using the holes in the frame.. the 1 inch was sufficient to step the surround up and keep the surround / cone from touching the MDF (completely resting on the basket). 2x4s were used in the corners to make sure the make shift crate could not twist and turn in the box. He says the box arrived un damaged so it must not have been a sudden shock, I'm guessing they put it in the truck on the side and the constant pounding of ground shipping shifted the motor (which still shouldn't happen, but it was fully functioning when it left, and he has a video of the cone being locked up) Here's my only idea of how to fix it man. I PMed it to you already but maybe others can chime in and say whether it's worth a try. I was just looking at the picture and I think we can try to push it back. Obviously it's movable as it went that way. The down probably is hoping that it didn't twist the coil or something. I'd do this.. measure the diameter of the motor (the ceramic slugs) Cut part of a circle with that radius out (like 1/3 of a circle or 1/4 of a circle) .. just use the MDF I shipped it with. Stack it up a couple layers high (just cut the circle out and cut that up into 4 or 5 pieces, stack those) Screw these layers together to provide an even pressure surface to the ide of the motor. then, take some time and figure out exactly what axis the motor is shifted on, and give yourself some reference marks on top to line up with a reference mark on our blank MDF cut out. Now, place the MDF cut out against the circumference of the motor , making sure that some of it is on each of the 3 slugs (don't risk pushing 2 slugs and missing the 3rd, make sure the blank is thick enough to touch all 3 slugs) take a hammer and start hitting the MDF blank (gently at first.. don't do it any harder than is needed). It may take several swings to figure out how hard you have to tap it to move it.. then try to move it into place like that. Did this make sense?

Nice install! Nice work on the logo

They're great subs, just pricey. If you get a good deal like that you should jump on it.

Whether they go poof or not is completely up to you and that knob up front methinks

Xcon +1 it's seksah

Where you'd want to put them would depend on where you have your polk speakers and what your level of fabrication is. My first effort would be to put them in the kicks, but if you have the mid and tweeter there then the door.. or vice versa.. more info needed to get you a complete answer

Setting it by ear is what I've always done and I've yet (knock on wood) to blow a speaker. Set your headunit to the maximum volume you plan on turning it to (typically good to stay well below it's max) then slowly turn the gain up until it blends with the rest of your set up or you hear it start to distort.. whichever comes first.

Gut the whole thing and put your own stuff in there.. the gear you've got is way better than what's in there.

You're box shouldn't be vibrating enough to loosen drywall screws in the wood. Reinforce your box and make sure it's properly secured inside the vehicle or the screws loosening may be the least of your worries

Well the sub doesn't care what you send it as long as it can dissipate the heat generated by the current.. Can you hear a difference in the sound from when you have it turned down to when the dummy-light is telling you there's supposedly clipping? Listen for distortion, if you hear it distort turn it down. And like 95Honda said.. hide the knob and you won't know it's blinking.

Well, the biggest part you'll have to go over is the terminal.. so measure the widest part of the terminal. I'm guessing 12mm isn't going to be enough (12mm is less than half an inch) the 3:1 is measured at the starting size.. so 12mm would go from 12mm to ~4mm.. you don't need that small.. I'd probably get the 18mm or something along that lines.. even the 24 (I think that's the bigger size.. something around there) would shrink down to about 3/8ths of an inch when heated.

Much like your car stereo, install is important on ear buds. Make sure you get buds that fit your ear well... nice IEMs will often come with different size pads that are interchangable. Personally, I have the Shure SE210 buds and find that they have great extension and a good balance. They aren't boomy in the bass but play deep when you get them seated properly. Good ear buds will sound like shit if you don't have one that seals in your ear canal like it should.

a lot of those sets are worth more than my car! Even worse, they're worth more than the stereo in my car! lol (yay for old beaters with half way decent stereos... ha)

I haven't been around 12v long enough to have any old school gear, but it's always a pleasure to read about / see pics of your collections. Thanks, guys!

don't know if it was the download site or what, but it sounded like a cd skipping

it doesn't even look like half the amps are hooked up to anything

Seems good for street beating.. though I fully agree, lower = better. I've got an IDQ10 under my desk though and it was enjoying the base line

You'll like the 12s, I'm sure. Asking 2 eights IB to keep up with anything, especially when they're not properly installed (not a dig, but you yourself admitted it was temporary and not properly sealed) is not going to bring fulfilling results. Good luck with the 12's, as I'm hoping to do the same thing in my car next summer.. so I'll stay tuned to any build thread you start!

Nice gear