pipes

Go with the 12 and, like you said, put the left over presidents into deadening. That will be more important to the outcome when you're talking about such capable subs anyway. It'd be different if you were comparing one of these with like a pyle or something, but they're all good subs so go for the extra deadening.

If they start to sound funny, then turn it down . 80 should be fine if you're conscious of the sounds that are supposed to come out of your speakers and the ones that precede funny smells

Oh, man. I had to go back to the judges on this one. They came back with a, sh!t I don't know. It's a complete sentence. It makes a statement. Hell I think we found a wiener. How is that a sentence? It has a subject but no verb. You can make an argument for "go" by saying that when giving a command the subject is an implied pronoun but how are you going to imply an action by just saying "I"? Putting a period at the end of it doesn't make it a sentence.

So close, but that is not a complete sentence. Wonk, wonk, wooonnnk. I didn't think it was a complete sentence; I was simply hoping you'd say "Hooray! You figured it out!" and proceed to tell me why it's a sentence. Alas, my dreams are dashed once again.

This. Too long, both of them. Well, despite the fact that neither of these are a sentence, I'll just glean the hint that what you are looking for is one letter. I have to imagine it's a vowel if it's only one letter. So A, E, I, O or U.. (possibly Y?) So my guess is thus: I Really?.. Yeah.. that was pretty lame. I admit it.

ic

I like running big amps at low impedance in the car, that way I don't have to have the heater fan blowing and making all that noise!

Not sure about the modeling; I am using a rlp18 in around 6.4 cubes ported to 27 hertz with 81 square inches of port and like it a lot. I don't think you'll be disappointed.

I went with a 3-way active system as my first attempt and if I had to do it over again I would definitely go with a 2-way active; though, note, I would still go active. If you went 3 way, Zed's Leviathon would really be the way to go. I'd love to sell all my amps and just buy that one. It's a great piece of equipment. Going with a 2 way active is possible if you're willing to do some research. There is plenty of information available without much searching - just do some reading here, roe, PE tech talk, etc for general concepts and the occasional link to outside information. As far as drivers go for a 2 way I'd go with a 6.5/7 inch mid and a tweeter. Though you could go with a bigger midbass and use a smaller fullrange unit and sacrifice some high end extension if you're willing to do some EQing. But, there is something to be said for the simplicity of a plug and play passive. If you're willing to do the research (which you seem to be seeing you came here asking for help) then I don't see why you can't pull off an active set up... but as previously stated, start with goals and then find the components to fit them - starting with pieces of equipment and molding your goals to fit them won't turn out very well unless you get lucky.

I'd go with the IDMAx 12s if you have a good deal on them. I ran 4 IDMAX 10v3s and they were perfect for what my understanding of your goal is.... the ability to get loud but sound great doing it (and if you turn down the non-fader then they blend excellently too) They're really great subs

Aeroports refer to round ports with a significant flare at the end.. take this for example http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=268-348 The term "back" is being used generally when said to keep the port away from the back.. just keep the opening of the port inside the box a good distance away from any obstacle (back, side, top, driver) that could interfere with the air moving in and out of the port freely.

When I kerfed a port for my box I did some math to figure out how much wood I needed to remove..... I think that's what you're asking for when you mention a "formula"? Say, for example.. you want the curve to bend 90 degrees (a right angle) with a 4 inch radius. You can find the distance from the start of the bend to the end of the bend by figuring out the circumference of a circle with a radius of 4 and taking 1/4 of that (90 degrees) seeing your first cut would be the beginning of the bend and last cut the end of the bend. Then, if you find the circumference of a circle with a radius of 3 and 1/4 inches (4 inch radius minus the 3/4 of an inch thickness of MDF) you can find how much material you need to remove by finding the difference in the two lengths. Circumference = 2*pi*r = 2*3.14159*4 = approximately 25.13 inches... a quarter of which is 25.13*.25 = 6.28 or about 6 and 1/4 inches. This is the distance from the start of your curve to the end on the outside of the board. So, your last cut will be just a bit further than 6 and 1/4 inches away from your first. Now find the inside 2*pi*r = 2*3.14159*3.25 = about 20.42 so a quarter of that (90 degrees of the circle) is 5.11 so just under 5 and 1/8 inches. This is the distance from the start of your curve to the end on the INSIDE of the board. So, the amount of wood you need to remove, is the difference between the outside distance and the inside.. or 6 and 1/4 minus 5 and 1/8, which is 1 and 1/8 inch. If your saw blade removes 1/8 of an inch of wood with each pass.. then you'd need to make 9 cuts in the wood over that 6 and 1/4 distance. Considering that a cut starts, and ends, the distance, you're looking at a cut every 3/4 of an inch approximately. Now, while this theoretically removes enough wood for your bend to reach your desired radius, a cut every 3/4 of an inch will likely leave you with a bend that looks like a bunch of flat spots. There's little harm in doing more cuts (arguably) but cuts closer together will provide a smoother looking curve as the flat part in between each cut begins to show less and less to the eye. Anyways.... this is the general idea I think you were looking for. It only takes about a minute if you know your desired radius to figure out a starting point and then decide if you can remove that much material safely. (if you have to make so many cuts for a real tight radius that you remove most of the wood it kind of defeats the purpose and you'd have to go with a bigger radius which may change your overall design)

I don't think he was saying your front stage components weren't good enough.. I think he simply meant that you should stop putting time and effort into worrying yourself about a sub choice and get to work putting that time and effort into getting the front stage done and done right =).

Nice, I use the Dayton RS100-4 for midrange in my front stage and really enjoy them

I am not worried about the car audio world, just this forum as the threads should be helpful for those that search and find them. Being someone who searches these forums for information, I hardly ever find your posts to be helpful. All they seem to be is comments telling someone they're wrong with no explanation of why they are wrong - let alone helpful in the sense of showing them how to do it properly. Then it usually involves 2 pages, in someone's post to ask questions, in a discussion of how you're just trying to do the right thing and keep the forums free of ignorance. I understand your concern for these forums, but you troll these forums with your knowledge (which I in no way deny your possession of) in the form of smoke and mirrors. Asking the original poster where the option of voting for no wall is incites a natural response, in those of us who are lead to believe walls are beneficial, of "why no wall?" Then you lead him around after this response with vague references like "the first step to being loud is to not build a wall." It's specific in the sense of saying something definitive... but it's vague in the sense of us coming here, to these forums, for explanations, understanding, and discussions. What do your actions do for us who are searching the forums? It creates an ethos of the supposedly knowledgeable members of these forums, who is whom we come here to learn from in our searching of these forums, of being pompous, arrogant, and protective of the 'secrets' of successful car audio. What exactly did the comment "whose farts have more knowledge about sound than you do" comment do for this thread, or even for this forum? You have a ton of information and knowledge and claim to want to make these forums a better place. I, as a person who comes here for enlightenment, think you could do a lot towards that goal by explaining yourself a little when you make statements in threads like this. Your initial comment about wanting to vote no wall would not have seemed so conceited and demeaning to the OP if you had simply elaborated on why you felt not doing a wall was a better option.

I have a pair of the RE coaxials in a 6x9 version and I like them... but in the same price range I think that the Pioneer TS-D1602R are a better option usually. They sound great, have a built in cross over network which really makes them shine and can take a good amount of power. If I was to buy a coaxial 6.5 right now I'd buy the pioneers... haven't heard the kickers or what-not though so can't compare those.

You'll be happy with the two SE 12's. If you don't plan on putting more power to them than they are rated for, anyways. I have a 12'' SX and have a Crossfire 2000d on it. The SE has a softer spider setup than the SX so they move easier. I'm double the rating to the SX 12 with the 2000d and it hasn't damaged the coil or anything - though the surround came loose on one area because of how far it was moving... was able to glue it back in place and haven't had any further problems. I guess my point is that if you're sending rated power to them in a daily set up than I think the SEs are the better choice in most situations (I got the SX only because of the power I was planning on sending to it).

I haven't owned them personally, but there is a set hooked up on display at the local shop. They sound pretty good. I'd suggest running an amp to them though. Running anything off head-unit power is going to tend to be disappointing; an amp will really improve them - especially considering they'll have a cross over network that will waste some of the power. If you can get a deal on them, they're definitely worth it. They aren't anything majestic but you will not be disappointed with them.

Do they have to be from Madisound only? If so here's my suggestions. 2 x http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=1600 2 x http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=1597 2 x http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=8360 If it's not limited to Madisound. 2 x http://www.creativesound.ca/pdf/CSS-SDX7-data-261207.pdf 2 x http://www.hybrid-audio.com/Legatia%20L4.pdf 2 x http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=1679 That should spend most of your 600 bucks. I have a 3 way front stage at the moment but I only have about 175 bucks in it. Two Mpyre 6.5 midbass, two dayton RS100 midrange, and two north creek D25 tweeters

If you want 3 tens sealed or ported I'd suggest 3 Soundsplinter RL-i 10's .65 sealed per or .45 vented per at 27hz http://www.soundsplinter.com/rli10_subwoof...nformation.html But personally I'd just put a twelve in there like the others are suggesting. I'd go with an RE SX 12 on a Sundown SAZ-1500d. You should have enough room to port it properly and I personally have one in a 2ft box tuned to 33hz that i've run 2k+ to daily so 1500d should mate up well to it. The 1500d just happens to be on sale too through the end of September. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=20943 Here's a link to the RE SX http://reaudio.com/specs.html#sp_sx Like I mentioned I have a SX 12. I'm not using it at the moment because I just put in an RL-p 18. I'm not actively putting it up for sale but if you decide to go that route get ahold of me I would be willing to let it go to get back the space in my storage unit.

So I got an RL-p 18 off a guy on ROE. Decided to try my hand at building a box myself this time. The box is Approximately 6.2 cubic feet net ported to about 27 hertz. I say approximate because it has curved boards and I didn't bother busting out those formulas... So here's some pics. The funny part is, what I thought is/was the toughest part, the curved flares, came out way better than I had hoped they would let alone thought they would. I did the math, drew out where they should end up, then had a friend help me bend them (2 hands simply wasn't enough) and they ended up spot on. All my other easy cuts? Typically a blade's width off.. made for some interesting clamping getting it glued and screwed. Alright, no more delays... Board sliced, partly secured and ready to bend. My bending buddy making some holes to secure it soon as we bend it. Don't have pics of filling the cuts with resin.. didn't have time or hands enough to grab the phone while we were bending it. My clamps. Nothing but the finest equipment. Making sure we're on. Resining up the inside of the curve Fast forward. After finishing the bends I went to work on trying my hand at glassing some kick pods while the flares set. The rest of the work I got done that night didn't turn out well on the camera phone due to lack of lighting. All the picks look like brown blobs. So now the main port board is set, and I'm working on the back port boards going towards the center. 45*s are set ready for the back panel. You can see my saw blade wide off... took some filing work to get the corner to lay flush. Getting close now, ports are all in, one more set of 45s in the middle to flare into the ports and we're on the home stretch. Back 45s are set. I rounded the corner. It creates a flare from about 4.5 inches from the 45s to the end of the board gradually to the 3" port width. Trying to decide where to put the dowel braces. Decided to only go with two. You'll see em in a later pic. The semi-finished product. Still need to do some finish work. Cut the double baffle and laminate it to the top. But, I do believe she's functional as is. A little bit better pic of the interals and the flared port. Well that's the only pics I took that turned out half way decent. I was using a camera phone, so that obviously effected the quality of the pics. I know it's not the prettiest box, but I do think my idea was good and just wish I had been able to execute it that little bit better. However, it's good and solid and no gaps where there shouldn't be. So it'll work. And, of course, the next one will be better! Live and learn. Feel free to make lots of comments; good, bad, ugly... I can handle 'em all. Also, sorry for the side-ways pics. I have every confidence you can deal with it, though!

Heres some quick pics of where the install is at. I thought I had left more room to do a nice amp board to hide all the wires and what not, but if I do an amp cover it will block part of the port, I'm not sure how big of an effect this will have on it? Some one educate me on that please? It would probably block the bottom 2 inches of the port on either side.... Anyways, until I figure out if I'm going to do a trim board around the amps, I'm gonna loom the wires to try and clean it up a bit and make it look better. Pretty happy with how the box turned out though, looks way better carpeted and with some paint on the port board.

It is double baffled, it's flush mounted with the second baffle. Just hadn't cut the hole yet when I took the pictures. And, second baffle is lamenated to the first with fiberglass resin. I didn't get many pictures today cause I forgot to bring a camera... install is 95% done... need to do some trim panels and find out how to loom/hide the wires. I thought I had left more room when I measured for the box build at first to do an amp rack but we barely got everything in as it is; didn't have much room to do a fancy amp rack. Oh well. I'll take some pics tomorrow in the day, doesn't look too bad. Sound decent, think it will sound damn good soon as I get it dialed in more.

Well my old equipment is getting switched out with the new stuff tomorrow. I didn't get time to finish the box the way it should have been finished (proper sanding, maybe some filler before hand in a few key spots). The curved board is painted black, but I didn't have time to sand it or anything so it doesn't look so hot. Rest of the box will be carpeted, and seeing as how it's in the trunk I'm not terribly concerned about it. If at some point I decent to enter it in a show or whatnot I'll yank the box and sand/repaint the port board. I finished my first set of kick pods Wednesday... gotta say I'm pretty pleased with how they turned out. Some small mistakes obviously for my first try but not too shabby. Even got some props from the local fiberglass guru. One side looks smaller than the other, but when we measured them they were both within a few tablespoons of being .3ft^3 each... not too bad. They're for Dayton Reference RS100 (4 inch fullrange driver) and Vifa XT25. My hands don't fit through the cut outs so a couple of my buddies whose hands do fit helped me out and we had a Sculpe Claying session. Lowered the resonance quite nicely! Got em carpeted up and just waiting the wiring job. So, old equipment list. Sources Alpine IVA-D300 Alpine 3545 Active Dividing Network Speakers Mpyre 65M(s) Seas 29TFF/W RE SX 12" D4 Amplifiers Crossfire 1502 (Mids) (2) Eclipse EA2000 (1 per Tweeter) Crossfire 2000D (SX) New Equipment Sources Alpine IVA-D300 Alpine 3545 Active Dividing Network Speakers Mpyre 65m's Dayton RS100's Vifa XT25's Soundsplinter RL-p 18 Amplifiers (3) Crossfire 1502 (1 per front frequency stage) Crossfire XP1400D (RL-p) I'm not big on messing with electricity so I'm letting the professionals do the wiring. I'll take some pictures so you can see it. Maybe I'll even remember to bring a real camera so the pictures turn out half way decent. But don't count on it!

I was under the impression of the opposite assumption actually. If you were going to listen mostly to music I'd probably go sealed at home; however, as you said your looking for 95% movie response - which is typically only going to be used then for explosions and the like, a.k.a. dramatic sequences - letting it have a good boom isn't a bad thing. Personally, for movies, I'd build it BIG and port it LOOOWWWW! Nothing like the feeling of reality when the movie's thunder hits or car blows up and your house feels like it was the victim because it's experiencing it's own personal shake down. But, that's just me. If you can build a horn enclosure though... Do it! Those just look bad ass haha.