djjdnap

i'll fix it a little later... wait, i didn't save the psd file.. well i'll see what it looks like squished.

what did you think of that site?

lmao Sealed box This is the simplest type of box. The back wave can't interfere with the front wave because it's trapped in the box. Typically, sealed box systems are the least efficient designs since half of the radiation from the driver (i.e. the back wave) is wasted. Despite this, sealed designs are quite popular because: 1) they're easier to build than other enclosure types, and 2) are better behaved below their tuning frequency. The greatest disadvantage of sealed enclosures has little to do with efficiency, but is that their lower -3 dB frequency (F3) is always higher than the driver's free air resonance frequency (Fs). Variants of the sealed box include the infinite baffle and the acoustic suspension. An infinite baffle is where the volume of the box is so large that the driver acts (approximately) as if it were suspended in free air, An acoustic suspension design uses a very small box so the air inside can be used as a pneumatic spring to support the driver. Typically, sealed boxes are stuffed with acoustic material to increase their apparent size by changing the enclosure's characteristics from adiabatic to isothermal. All sealed box designs ultimately roll off at 12 dB/octave. Ported/EBS box Also known as a vented box, a ported box is a non-sealed box with a port (a tube between the box and the outside air) which is tuned to extend LF response. The port usually uses a constant cross-sectional area (excluding flares on the ends). Both the port length and diameter may be varied independently to achieve the desired tuning. Ported boxes are typically 3 dB more efficient than a sealed box below the sealed box's F3 point, since the back wave is used to augment the driver's output. The characteristics of this augmentation are determined by the port's tuning. Response rolls off at a 24 dB/octave slope. Ported enclosures are typically lined with acoustic treatment to break up standing waves, and may contain a low density fill, but should never be densely stuffed. In either case, the filler should be held securely in place to prevent it from being blown out the port. A popular variation of the ported box is the Extended Bass Shelf (EBS) design. This is simply a ported system in a larger than optimal box, tuned to a lower than optimal resonance frequency. The frequency response is distinguished by a slightly depressed shelf at the bottom end. Although F3 is actually higher, usable in-room bass response is extended, while providing better phase and delay performance. For more information on EBS alignments, see The Subwoofer DIY Pages. Bandpass A bandpass design is a special type of ported box. It contains two or more chambers, any of which may be sealed, ported to the outside, or mutually ported with another chamber. The driver is mounted on a baffle between two of the internal chambers, so the sound can only get to the outside through a port. As with ported enclosures, bandpass enclosures are lined but not stuffed. As their name implies, bandpass designs exhibit both low- and high-frequency roll offs of 12 dB/octave in the case of 4th order systems. In all but the best implementations, this leads to boomy, one-note bass - impressive for casual listening, but not particularly accurate. As a result, bandpass enclosures are mostly used to provide the perception of lots of bass from a small box. Good bandpass designs are possible, but they remain subject to Hoffman's Iron Law. Tapered Quarter Wave Tube (TQWT), also known as a Voigt pipe The TQWT is a hybrid technology, related to both TL's and horns. Although more obscure than TL's, TQWT's have traditionally been backed by more solid theory. This is due to the fact that they were the work of one highly respected audio researcher, Paul Voigt, in the early 30's. Both straight and folded versions are known. Also like TL's, TQWT's benefit greatly from a good stuffing strategy. Although arguably as arcane as TL's, the TQWT's principle use has been as a low cost, easy to build alternative to horns. TQWT's are often used with full-range drivers, such as those listed in Section 3. Having said all that, if you want something different, yet lack the woodworking skills to build a good folded horn or TL, a TQWT might be just the project you're looking for. Horn Horns for bass systems are almost always folded to conserve space. Both the geometry and subsequent design can be tricky and will require the greatest woodworking skills of any enclosure type. Horns are characterized by their flare rate - i.e. the rate at which the cross-sectional area increases between the driver and the mouth. Lacking finite element analysis tools, the best way to design a horn is using a tractrix (a specific geometric shape) profile. There are several software packages (none free that I know of, though) which can be used to design tractrix horns (some also do hyperbolic and/or exponential profiles as well). The mouth area and length of the horn determine the LF cutoff of the horn. Raise the cutoff frequency of the horn, and the enclosure size drops dramatically. Much of the traditional literature describes horns which are front-loaded, i.e. the driver is in a box (which can be sealed or ported, BTW - there are some good articles in recent issues of Speaker Builder magazine discussing horns with drivers in ported sub-chambers) which, in turn, drives the horn. Much contemporary interest in horns involves the use of a direct radiating, high-efficiency, full- or wide-range driver, with horn loading of the driver's back wave. A horn acts as an acoustic transformer, greatly increasing the efficiency of the system. Horns exhibit a LF cutoff, based on the circumference of the mouth. Below this cutoff, output drops precipitously - typically 24 dB/octave or greater. Rear horn Transmission line (TL) Think of a TL as a pipe containing a driver in one end and with the other end open. Traditionally, a TL had no tuning frequency (Fb) in the conventional sense as with a sealed or ported box. "Tuning" a TL was a "simple " matter of making the line length 1/4 wavelength of where the driver begins to roll off, so that the rear wave can reinforce the front wave. The line was tuned to either the driver's F3 (-3 dB) or F10 (-10 dB), depending on whose design methodology you used. Similarly, unlike a port, which acts as a Helmholtz resonator, the parameters of a TL were independent, the cross-sectional area being determined by the driver's Sd, and the length being determined by the driver's F3 or F10, as previously noted. Some TL's (notably the Focal Daline series) were hybrids, utilizing a small enclosure which vents to the outside via a more conventional TL. Even in a Daline, though, the cross sectional area of the TL where it joins the box was much larger than a typical port, usually 1-1.5 times the SD of the driver. TL's are usually stuffed, often with stuffing materials of varying density. Sound complicated? It was, which was why many people avoided TL's as involving as much luck and voodoo as science. Well, that was then, this is now

i've seen the inside of 1 box. I had a roounded interior, kinda like a skate board half pipe.

heres a good site for you though. http://www.540i6.com/

I just got back from an all day driving school with driving concepts and it was awesome! I really got to push this thing to its limits and find out exactly where they are. It handles amazingly well and the brakes are awesome too. I am still learning the stick, but I am 100x better now. I reaaaaally need to be careful when I'm in 5th gear though. I was cruising at around 3 or 3.5k doing about 80 when i decided to punch it. Within seconds I was doing 120 (can your lincoln do that ). I didn't even realize how fast I was going and half scared myself. I am beginning to wonder if I am ever going to find 6th on this thing if i didnt have a limiter on my car yes, i bet i could do more than that, c;mon its a V8, it gets to 110 and just stops, dam limiter, but off the line i bet you couldn't touch me

welcome, nice, thas a long ass thread i went from page 1 to 8 and u where only on the doors , lol.

it didnt hit me how big it was until i started cutting the pieces, seriusly, its like a mini dog house... I gotta go buy another sheet of mdf, dam thats 44bux...22$ each I have my friends lil d-snap camera, but he didnt giv me the usb connector to get the pics off of the camera hopefully i'll get it 2ma.. and hopefully i'll be finished wt the box by then also. now i still gotta order the subs

it does have a phase swithch on the amp though.

i guess you finnaly got that fuse in huh, lol. what kinda of alt do you have, I know mines is at 8 ohms and it was still dimming, well i have 2 amps, but still. When the bass hits it might be sucking more power than the viper did, so when it goes to hit the notes it's not getting enough juice...doesn't really sound like thats the problem though. Also what is ur xxx ohm load? 1? Not sure what the problem is, mess wt the crossover. I would say just play wt the knobs and see if you can get it to sound right, and if you can't, idk. It could be your HU, too many things to say.

i bet my licoln tc could take you. lol, nice car though

soo wrong....soo wrong rip

ok, i think i got it. I'm just going to keep the starter wires the same and hook them to the side post of the batt. then for the top post bigger ground, and bigger pow. to the alt. Why do i need a bigger wire going to the starter?

i dont really understand batt to frame? Just hook the battery up to? Just not really sure where to hook the positive connection from the battery i can do the batt to alt, not that bad and ground i can just hook that up to whatever ground is closest right. So what do i do with the stock wiring?

lol, depends on what is wrong with it, i got my old one fixed for 125 at the local store.

yea buddy, put some 22's or up and its a done deal You scored as 64\' Impala. Your ghetto but with style, and everyone in your croud loves it as other gawk at you and your car. 64\' Impala 100% 00' audi A4 75% Aston Martin Vanquish 75% 03' Mustang SVT Cobra 75% Trans Am 75% 99' Mitsu Eclipse GSX 63% 05' Cobalt SS 63% 00' Honda Civic 50% 02' Xtreme Blazer 50% 91' Geo Storm 50% 02' Mazda Miata 38% 87' Z28 Camaro IROC 38% 90' Turbo Supra 38% Ford Focus ZX3 02' 25%

its not in half it by 4ohms, I turned it up a bit yesterday, left the gain down and just turned the bass up to 0, it doesn't sound half bad.

ok so i traded my friend the orions, i got from nccj, for these pioneer subs i got from bb a while back(basiclly i sold him those too and got them back) and he gave me 50bux(in change ) but anyway, i have my PA 3000db, calculated a lil bit, and came up wt these numbers ohms watts gain 8 200 4 1100 900 2 1800 700 1 2300 500 0.5 2550 250 Now the subs are rated at 150rms per sub, so 300total. So i have them in series and thier both 4ohms so it should be 8ohms total. I'm scared to turn them up loud because i dont want to blow them cuz im gonna giv them to my g/f once my subs come in. The gain is set to 0, and all bass is set to 0 and -7on the HU, lol, I can hear it a lil bit i'm just scared (wheres the smiley where he is under a chair? it woulda been perfect for this, lol)

http://www.my5minutes.com/index.php you have to sign up for the mature section but they haven't sent me any spam mail, just one to verify. edit: www.peoplesboard.com also is a good sight, very good.lol free just an email to verify.

girl

I like it. 20's, pshhh. lol, j/k once you go past 20's tires get jacked up about 1000$

i guess i'll take it, it's better than nothing.

that black guy of the bunch just doesn't count. I'm leavin

so essentially in a sealed box all things stay the same? as in no rise in Z? Also, i'm just a bit boggled at how the higher you tune the box the higher the impedence, kinda, but also the easier it is to blow your sub. Your giving the sub less wattage, but its easier to blow. hmmm