djjdnap

pay no attention to the dog food on the floor I couldn't hold the dam thing ]

hey thier not that bad, i used the flash i guess my crack hand strikes again

i dont wanna wait so scratch that, i'm a spymac member dammit http://djjdnapson.spymac.com/movz/MOL04C.ASF http://djjdnapson.spymac.com/movz/MOL04D.ASF btw , my box doesn't fit guess, i'll cut it and go sealed :gheychase: :gheychase: :gheychase:

hmm, someone help, i put them on realm of excursion, i guess i have to wait

u understand, I was just saying if i got a HO alt, and was settin at a stop light, i would still have dimmage, or if i was just parked somewhere listening to the radio.

Us crack handed people need to stick together

Dont know if i need to brace this box or not. ANd if i do how should i go about it? edit:

Placement, Brace types This is what a properly braced ported enclosure for a single driver would look like. Note in particular the liberal use of wood in the construction of the baffle itself (where the subwoofer actually mounts--here on the right side of the box just below the slot-port). This provides an extremely solid, vibration free anchor for the subwoofer to mount. For enclosures that house multiple drivers, just follow the same general procedure which is to basically just go nuts with the bracing. You can never have too much bracing (unless of course you were to brace your box to the point that it would be reduced to a solid block of wood in which case it wouldn't be a box--it would be ballast). It doesn't have to be pretty, just effective. Just make sure that you compensate for the braces' displacement by over-voluming the enclosure by just the amount necessary to make up for what the braces displace. Do not simply add a fixed percentage of fudge factor, particularly when dealing with ported or bandpass enclousres as this practice can result in serious mis-tunings (read: it'll make your sub sound like crap). Sealed systems are a bit less finicky and a percentage-based or rough guestimate over-volume will be less of an issue, but we still don't recommend the practice. Don't be lazy...better to do a little math now than to regret the hours you spent desiging and building the box later!. While there are other methods of bracing involving extremely complex shapes, the following is probably the easiest to implement as it requires no pesky angle cuts and is also quite effective. Brace Placement When deciding where to place your braces inside the enclosure, it is a good idea to make sure you use asymmetrical placement so that the span between any brace and the nearest wall (or the next brace brace) is unequal to subsequent spans between braces and walls (and you thought this was going to be easy). This placement technique will minimize the possibility of standing waves forming in the wood panels that make the walls of the enclosure which would cause nasty losses and potentially bothersome colorations. If you are using actual partitions as bracing in your particular design (when using multiple drivers, this is adviseable), this rule does not apply--it is only for braces used within the individual chambers. Basic Brace Types Using this scheme, there are two types of braces that are commonly used. To keep things really interesting, we'll call these two types of braces types "A", "B", and "C". Type "A" A type "A" brace is simply a solid piece of wood that does not span the entire width of the box (it contacts the enclosure walls on three of it's four edges). It gets a little more fun as we go along so hang in there. Type "B" - or - B-type braces involve a little more work, but they are a bit more effective since all four edges of a B brace are in contact with the enclosure walls. A type "B" brace is made by simply cutting holes into a piece of wood that would otherwise be considered a partition--it touches all four walls. To maintain the brace's rigidity while keeping displacement to a minimum (allowing air to flow freely through the brace), cut circular or rectangular holes and make sure that the distance between each hole's edge and the edge of the brace is no thinner than one (1) inch. The bracing used in the photograph at the top of this page are "Type B" braces with rectangular openings. The shape of the opening in the wood is of little consequence for the most part, but it should be noted that using circular holes does offer a slight strength advantage. Type "C" http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/bracing/images/braceC.gif[/imgA type "C" brace takes a little more skill and/or patience to make (due to the angled cut), but are very much a worthwhile investment of your time. The braces are nothing more than triangular corner braces that help assure you of a very solid connection between adjacent walls of your enclosure. This not only reduces cabinet losses but also makes your enclosure much less susceptible to being turned into a rhombus when subjected to the "Jumbo Test". Make them as big or small as you like, but always keep in mind that the more braces you use, the more air they'll displace!

people would think the trunk was on fire from dry ice, lol, all of the fog it would cause.

Oh yea and how should i brace this thing. someone suggested only the baffle, that is the piece where the subs go correct? someone else suggested adding pieces to the wall. I was thinking of just adding pieces to the sides where the box came together and maybe to pieces runing from top to bottom.

That was the 1st box i ever made on that other thread, lol, i dont think i ever tried it out, hmm. but here are the real pics The port looks extra small if you ask me.But its sposed to be 32hz Now i'm not sure if i want to add in this extra piece right here are not, if i do i have to cut it at an angle because the subs depth is more than my ports length Ply wood Did that even look like an 18in hole to u guys, ahh come on now Oh and does this need bracing of coarse

So your saying if i have the air conditioner on while at a comp it will be louder? And can i put some vents into the trunk to make it icy cold in there as well and see results...

whoo... .. .. . . . . . . . . . .. . ..... ........... ................. ......................... mike jones

yea, it was a dual 12. I dont get how u can have more port area, but keep the same tuning? I mean i can change every aspect of it x*x*x, but its still going to be the same? correct? like now it is 3.5x25x6.8 ok i'll calc some more specs here, 4x20x5.66 5x25x11 ^^i think that would be the maximum i could get since i only have 43.5 across the front, the subs would be touching prolly also. I guess its not alot of port area because my width can only be 3.5-4 p.s. Me getting flamed for no reason on CA.com about the box http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.p...00&page=2&pp=15

hmm, well sound travels more at night. Because it is colder or something like that i kinda remember it from physics. Something about camping and at night hearing people whisper across the lake, lol. good times

Group Buy to make money???

heat would essentially make the rise go up right. Moisture would make it also go up because that moisture is being heated like a catalyst. Thats with heat though.. Thats my thoughts, havn't even taken the class yet, heard its hard as hell.

its not nailed down, yet. I dont have room to make the port any bigger. And from what i calculated that is the correct port length, to make it 32hz. The one piece is just something i was gonna add on, but prolly wont.

18's, not sure about the ports just took them from another box

yep

are you sure it looks sturdy to me

aw he shoulda just reconed his mt and sold it

^^ yea, this site was based on home audio, i believe, thus the horns

You will have a tighter bass, but dont get me wrong 12's hit, 15's pound, and 18's will be here this week and i'll tell you after i hear them how they sound