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1936 though? lol A bit that fitst for the right bolt size. one of the holes was pretty stubborn. You can see all the burs on there as well. Before After Maybe not the best spot for them, but works for me. Thinking about putting some feet on the box and having the amp underneath. Still undecided.

Came across this site and thought i would post it for you guys. pretty interesting. http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html

other wise your bussbar would just be a fuse i suppose. from what jeff said. he was like 'you've never seen a 1000A fuse have you well thats what the bars are" he said its a formula to figure it out, but idk

It seems as though your looking to put in 8" subs instead of 8" midbass drivers in your doors, you wont find any mids that will due 20-40hz. That is sub bass duty and not midbass duty. yes and yes see previous post

Just looked at the neos they say only down to 80HZ im good i need 20hz optimal or at least 40hz

^^ should be 3$ They come in one of those unrippable bags, then just a plastic bag inside of that.

haha same here Make it three over here. +4 lol I didnt make a pod for my 8's, just cut a hole, since they were supposed to be IB drivers i believe. Im thinking a sub instead of a comp would sound better though only because under 50HZ they dont perform to well, could be because of the IB as well.

I need a vid of my new setup. I have 8" cdt's they are only 3" in depth, but i think i messed one of them up, so yea i need some new ones.

lol i doubt he would hear them anyway, lol HEY HEY

never used audiopipe use to have 2 sx 18's and they are good subs.

L port == slot port?

^^ I agree about the alternator str8 to the amp

talk to Jefferson Stetsom Amps on another forum http://www.floridaspl.com/forums/showthread.php?p=168045&iact=hc&vpx=811&vpy=262&dur=684&hovh=194&hovw=259&tx=151&ty=114&ei=5O3GTeyYMYPfgQfZkITLBA&page=2&tbnh=121&tbnw=161&start=21&ndsp=21&ved=1t:429,r:4,s:21 he gives a lot of ideas of connecting stuff. But you can only view so many pages without being a member.

Well the block you speak of could be a buss bar. Or you could have multiple wires coming off of the batts instead of just one. going to each fuse holder then amp.

David Small (Merlin Equipment Ltd) [email protected] I'd email the person who wrote the article, i can only speculate However Im assuming that battery 1 the top battery would be the one that the alternator and chassis ground would be connected. Kind of like the supply is on one end and the load is on the other end. Then the other examples are basically breaking up the idea of that and like the article says balancing the load over all of the batts.

lol there not the same batts, so running them like that wouldn't work for me.

http://www.wagonmake...1t:429,r:11,s:0 not sure what the draw is though on his system edit: and also once you have so many batteries yea the wiring diagrams above become cumbersome. The article is a good example.

Larger buss bar. Bigger wire. let me find this link

What do you mean? There bolted to the box. I have batteries on the side of the box, so running wires to them is simple. And if the amp goes under the box, running wires to it should be simple as well. Or i might put it on the other side, just never liked the idea of putting my amp on the box and it breaking.