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just off the top of my head, the charging rate should vary depending on how charged the batt is and what u have running. A pcm based system is alot smarter than the old excite type alternators. I wouldn't worry about it honestly, http://blog.dcpoweri...ternators-work/ and

but theres nothing wrong wt that voltage honestly. why do u want it lower? nope

if it doesnt have an external regulator u could wire something up. if ur pcm controls it then u cant.

lmao can u say blown out^^^^ And yes 1k is ridiculous when i have bought the same amps for half the price just because i knew someone. I mean retail i could imagine paying that much but used online smh. its just like rims and motorcycles, ppl trying to sell thier 1990 gsxr for 3000$ smh or 2000$ for some rims when you can find them for 500$. Im not saying that they aren't worth it but if i can shop around and save 75% why not. Oh yea...Found a bracket on smd for 75$, retail yea 300$

I like sealed enclosures

Just a couple of things i saw that looked cool First Under-the-Hood Bluetooth Radar Detector New Driver Fatigue Sensor System for Cars Memphis Intros its First Mini Amp Series for Special Vehicles Rockford Offers First Punch 2-Ohm SVC Subs Rockford First With Speaker “Klippel” Verfication New Bluetooth Passive Keyless Entry System Best Buy is Gradually Going out of Business: Forbes ESCORT Intros Dyle Mobile DTV for iPhone New Android-Based Car Radio

im just not a fan of all these mainstream companies most times, but in the end a watt is a watt

its just another standard they're trying to implement for car audio. Since there are really no standards that companies must follow. The first one was cea certified amps, now i guess it will be klippel subs.

man that was some fast building. Sorry to hear about the amp. Its plenty of amps for sale on caraudio.com and smd.com, not to mention a few on here as well.

ehh u just gain a little bit of more cone area is all, i see it being negligible.

Man ive been thinking about selling both of my amps to get matching or just 1 big amp, but idk peoples prices are ridiculous for less wattage than i have lol. 5000w amps going for over 1k$ is ridiculous to me. I paid 500$ for a 5000w amp and before that about 300$ for a 2500w amp. Rediculous, so unless i can sell mines for that much i'll just run a bastard system. Also i forgot i was running at 2ohms instead of 1 which should net me 4000w or so lol Need a dual bracket. So i'll def be over the 15k watt mark, im getting just thinking about it now, lol, but its freaking 19deg outside..

I read this a while back, not sure if i posted it or not. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Optimum Speaker Placement An often asked question by consumers on our tech support line is: "What's The Best/Optimum Speaker Placement"to achieve perfect imaging? The attached images show good speaker placement and speaker angle for both door/kick panel and A-pillar installs. Try to get as close as possibly to these speaker placements and speaker angles on your installs and imaging will always be improved/close to perfect. Stock door panels are often more than 30% muffling up clean clear path dispersion. Why buy a good clean and detailed sounding speaker if it will be muffled by a poor door panel grill design. Make sure the speakers are mounted as “far out” as possible in the door (on a wood baffle if possible) and make sure the door panel grill has design for a clear vertical and horizontal dispersion. Stock door panels are often screwing up clean clear dispersion: Do Not mount a speaker “far into” the door and then cover with the stock door panel, stock door grills always ruin good musical sound quality and musical detail and imaging. Dampening the door: Dampen the door and door panel well, this is critical and important for good bass response and overall sound quality. Check to make sure there are no air leaks around the speakers. 6.5” in the door only! Don’t mount a 6.5” mid-woofer in a small sealed enclosure/kick pod, always use the door as enclosure for 6.5” and larger drivers. Mount the mid woofer far down and far forward in the door, aim toward dome light/sunroof area if possible. Good main Tweeter placement: Always make sure the main component system Tweeter is mounted “close to the mid woofer” if possible angled toward the dome light/sunroof area. “Never” mount the main component Tweeter away from the mid woofer and or high up on the door sail panel or rear mirror location, never. Poor Tweeter placement: “Never” use the side rear mirror location as your main Tweeter placement! Always mount the main component Tweeter close to the mid woofer location, always! Proper system tuning: Don’t hesitate to send an email to CDT should you have any specific install and or system amp gain setting or overall tuning questions. Email:[email protected]

Lol u can use that term as much as u like, not everyone has to agree. I still like to say SQL because some ppl dont like it either, its just one of those hot-topics if you will, kinda like this whole KING Cab thread lol

nah just use the one from page 2 that i posted, or you can change things up urself if u goto the calculator to tweak it the way u want

LOL i think this is the most work ive done in a while on here lol Well i just checked 3 cut sheets fi has on its page against the RE calculator and everything came out right. Soooo might as well use it. lol i doubt 1hz off is going to be that big of a deal even if it is. So id just stick to the RE calculator for convenience, im no expert by any means.

It will work fine for the initial setup. The only thing is the port length and depth are not correct for the frequency you want. Which is what i was attempting to figure out above with the 8in width and 23 inch depth.. But since your depth is 27 i would i would have an L port, so instead of straight 23" piece run it back like 13" and make have a perpendicular piece to that that is 10" =23 total

Well lets try this again. lol http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/enclosure-volume-calculator/#axzz2H2jRjm1b So the volume was way off wt the RE calculator. But the cut out should be fine and the above is more accurate. It would really depend on ur displacement which i just put .5 ....... and now as i sit here looking at it my brain just went poof Someone else feel free to jump in

I read that else where but i was going for what i've used. RE's is convenient and then i just double check with http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp

another calculator says the port length should be 32, but ehh... You also have to factor in displacement for bracing and the sub, to be 98.7% accurate lol so right now ur looking at 16.622ft^3 of space, once we find the displacement we can adjust the port length to be more accurate. Which is going to be a smaller number which will make the port length longer and the port width smaller if the box volume gets too small i think i looked at that right. http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp

Ive never heard anyone complain about the w7, other than the price.

im no wall expert but from what i have seen you build the wall and have an idea of how big you want the port then shim it out accordingly. Well i suppose thats what they do when they are chasing DB's But looking at your truck you could eaither build it in the truck. or make it small enough to fit through the door and just run a piece of wood across the top to seal it off. id talk to this guy Page 6 http://www.soundsolu...__fromsearch__1

A sealed wall is going to be louder because you have less room in the actual car. So the waves have a shorter distance to travel basically. But typically the more cone area you have the louder or wattage but then you take into account motor force i think....

Thats weird to have a different coil though... If its still rated for the same power i wouldn't worry about it, but i thought 4" coils had better power handling and cooling?

I am going to assume that the 4 inch coils are going to have more resistance because its more surface area and material. So that seems like a reasonable rationale.