mdexxxiv

Storeboughts can NEVER trump homemade marinades. Here's something my grandmother taught me. Put your meat of choice and the marinade in a pressure cooker for several hours on a medium low setting so it #1, doesn't burn the meat, and #2 doesnt dry it out and pop like a dry boiler. Works well with ribs and chicken too. I have a recipe for you as soon as I find it i'll send it over.

Oh yeah, the cool thing is that the existing port @ 19w X 6h X 19.5 deep(bent) will work with BL's @ 33 hz acc'd to the port calculator. This could be fun!

I've got a 2000 Frontier xcab and I've got 10.42 cu ft box for 2 18's to work with. I've got a saz3000d coming but I want to know if I should go with 2 BL 18's or 1 BTL 18. I'm thinking the 2 bl's would be louder, but the btl has better Xmax with the x coil option. I don't crank my system all the time( I have a toggle switch so I can shut the sub amp off-It's great for keeping the cops at bay) but when I do I want to incite fear and cure constipation from a distance. I want the hair trick factor and I want it to sound ok, not like complete chit. I'm looking for some serious BOOM for what space I got. It will be in competitions and electrical upgrades will be done. So, any ideas on what may be louder? Here is the box: The front of box and port are to be replaced with plexiglass, inside w/mirrors, LED's, other things.

Deepknocking: Fi BTL Needs this: box 8 cu ft with slot port 14" X 8" X 18.5 in long . You can use an "L" shaped transmission port, just measure length on the inside of the "L" Box size is flexible but that port will create BIG diff in sound if its not dead on. I figured this port design with carstereo.com, which seems to be the most accurate of the bunch of port programs out there.

Cr@sh: I'm not sure what driver you are using but what the CARSTEREO.COM site tells me, if you are using the BTL18 in 8 cu ft @ 45hz, is that you need a port 8" X 14" X 9.9" deep. These drivers are not spec'd and by Fi's admission most box programs don't work with their drivers. Build a slot port the width of the box and full depth with a movable side, use test tones and pull it up until it hits the note. Long ports produce low notes, shorter ports for higher notes. That will save the trouble of wasting material. As for specs, they don't mean anything for these drivers. Remember, big box+ big port= big bang.

So there were no improvements or changes made then? Well thats a relief No, if there were no improvements or changes made then we would not have came out with the new BTL. We're not going to release a new product and spend more money on tooling to get away from the 3 slug motor if there was not a difference. The enclosure recommendations did not change, and will not change, as there is no re-invention of the wheel here. If you notice all of our enclosure recommendations are fairly similar through out the product lineup in regards to frame size. The tolerances that we give you is what we feel is best for a daily driving scenario for our speakers. If you feel the need to be a number junkie about things, sorry. If you'll model the BTL in a box program (Parameters will be up next week) it will tell you to put it in a sealed enclosure at about 11 cubic feet to get a +/- 3dB through the spectrum of interest. This is not the case and all box programs are wrong. The woofer will NOT work in a sealed enclosure to its full potential, sorry. Sorry if you feel that way Phil, only thing I can tell you is do what every single other person has done with our products and follow our recommendations. It's not rocket science and it is not hard to follow. Everybody else has had zero issues with following the guidelines that we have put up, I still do not see why you HAVE to have them to make a box. (as well as every single dimension of the woofer, that to this day still baffles me, in the many years i've been building boxes and fabricating things i have yet to need all the dimensions that you require to build an enclosure) We set the guidelines for a reason, because it is works best for a daily scenario, regardless of what your mind and box program might say/think. Parameters will be up next week sometime... Thanks -Nick Now my question regards port size. I see there is a post indicating to add 12-16 in2 for each foot of volume. What about depth? I know with stuff like the Atomic subs all you need is a 10 inch hole for a port, no depth. What do the BTL's require? They are very forgiving for box size but the port I assume has to be precision to work right. I want to make sure this works, especially when I'm getting ready to butcher a $1000.00 sheet of lexan for a box.