mdexxxiv

My old s-10 blazer had a sliding ragtop and with bass it broke quickly. First it jumped its tracks and then it just fell apart. Depends on what you have in there I guess. 2 12s won't hurt much but 4 18s weren't good for mine.

Take some 3/4 MDF (or Trupan) and cut it into pieces about 3" X 18", groove it with your table saw so it bends to the roof curve, and use a good amount of GE Silicone II. Coat wood and stick it home, let it dry for a day. Silicone other pieces to these to hold your new headliner or MDF sheet roof in place and once it dries, you'll have a roof thats acoustically dead and not able to be removed without dynamite. When I did my first ride I plated the insides of my blazer's body panels with MDF scraps siliconed in like this (Dynamat was expensive and it fell off in the heat out here) and it worked very very well, but it was obviously heavier.

I would say that your RCA's are picking up electrical interference from a nearby power wire or other power source if the sound is fairly constant. That's the simplest explanation, but it could be a number of things in the signal path or maybe in the deck itself.

Is there a way to run a h/o alt for just the stereo and its batteries AND keep the stock for truck functions only? Looking at 200 amp alt for the system and it seems no one has any idea if this will work. I can make the bracket and pully, I've got a lathe and CNC here so no problem there, but I would like to solve this issue and how much I have to chit out to make it work. Should I just bolt up a couple of big junkyard GM's and call it a day? Any ideas??

The stock alt is on the bottom of the motor in a small space. The current requirement for the system will be at least 150 amps or more and no one to my knowledge makes a compact h/o alt.

I'm kind of in the same situation, running into problems no one can help me with, it seems. No one makes h/o for imports w/out doing major mods and you have to have pullies and brackets custom made at a very steep price. Even if you can make the parts, getting them on the motor is a dangerous proposition at best. It's gonna cost you money anyway so here's what you're better off doing: You can get a h/o alt with some batteries ($1200.00 easy and around 200 lbs at least) OR, what I'm thinking about doing, getting a BatCap 8400 (70 lbs) off of Ebay, getting the charger that goes with it(do NOT hook one of these up to a regular battery charger!) and hook it up to the system completely seperate from the car, and it will bang for days before you have to charge it again.

Anyone know how these amps would compare to each other running 2 btl 18's?

It's ...uh..different. I rigged up some chit when I started messing with stereos in 1988 but I can safely say I never excreted something like this.

What vehicle are you putting them in? You're going to need a big box, something along the lines of what I have in my profile picture(perfect for the BL 18"s). It may look different, but it's huge and heavy.

Yeah, and the Dizz is right here in AZ... I sent him a message about his "sundown" and his reply was this: "Sundown is made by Zenon, this is the same amp." Its still in my inbox. You need a copy of my inbox screenshot, let me know.

Dust on the skin makes you itch like you're covered in glass dust. It's maddening because it is possible to have an allergic reaction to the chemicals in the glue.

Classical music is the progenitor of pretty much everything we listen to. The music is highly complicated and difficult to reproduce in a quality manner compared to much of the mainstream crap we have now. Classical composers like Bizet (Marche), Verde (Aida)and especially the heavy organ compositions of Bach (especially Toccata & Fugue in D minor) will give your system a very intensive workout and open things up in your system response curves that will blow your mind.

Holy Ph@k he spent SIX MILLION on this setup!

Gotta be someone famous. I'll bet he doesn't play it loud AND he isn't home to play it except like 2 days a year.

What are all the rest of the ingredients? Where does the whey come from? How is it processed? A lot of the commercially available whey protein is pre-digested in pig's bile. It is, essentially, garbage and is NO WAY even close to what it WAS (in form and vitality) when it was inside a cow's body (crappy feedlot cattle or otherwise). Pre-digested in pig's bile..that's ph@king gross. That's gotta be somewhere between vomit and poo. Ewwwwwww!

If you decide to add a battery or 2, make sure your batteries for the system AND for the vehicle are the same. If not, it creates in imbalance and will lead to eventual alternator failure.

I don't think you can. Those are pretty much a throw-away item anyway. I think there is a place on 29th & Park in south Tucson that does it. Your'e better off doing a conversion.

Termpro makes no mention of them. I was told by someone who sold them that they feed some sort of a "backcharge" into the electrical system that leads to alternator and battery failure, and they only last 2 years. They cannot be charged correctly by the vehicle, you have to buy the 350.00 charger for them. So basically I'm better off with the extra 500 lbs of batteries because it's better than replacing $2,000 worth of alternators and electrical components that would fry in six months.

I thought about using the Batcap 8400 because it would save weight over conventional batteries. It weighs 70 lbs vs several hundred lbs for yellowtops. Its capable of 8400 amps @16V and up to 9600 amps@12V. Anyone have experience with these and how they compare to batteries? Any issues w/these things?

I have a 2000 Frontier w/ a 2.4L 4cyl engine. The stock alternatoris fine for running the engine & truck stuff but I need to add a hi output alt to feed my pending system(2 yellowtops and 1 saz3000d, and Zapco 200.2 for front stage) I'd rather leave the stock alt where it is, as it is on the bottom of the engine and in a tiny space & I really don't want to ph@k with it. Is there a way to bracket a big GM alt on top of the motor somewhere? I have room there but want to make sure this can be done and how to do it right. I would want the alt to run the system related stuff only.

I bet it sucked to remove those seats. I think they're welded in.

Oh yeah, getting rid of my aircon is NOT an option. It gets around 110 or more here, and even hotter parked.

Hi all, I'm new to the forum but been in audio for some time. I posted earlier about making the change to Fi and Sundown. Great product! This is the old system, it is 2 Gain Industries GP18DVC2 subs running off an old school Lanzar Opti 50C, stock electrical. The best part: This box will work perfectly with 2 BL 18's, space, port and all. <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value=" name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>