MECHMAN

Joe- Thanks for posting the pics. We re-coated your mounts and clearanced the case with the mill when we had it apart so it will now be 100% to our spec. It went out with UPS yesterday so you will have it back real soon. -Eric.

Not without having the vehicle here in the shop. Too many variables for us to build one without having the vehicle here.

You said something about that when you bought it! Not surprised, there isn't much room in there. It's tight but that design will produce better power down low, worth the work to fit it. Glad you are happy with it.

People do that all the time, we have done it here for quite a few people. Our Suburban Spring Break build was a PCM controlled truck that had our units running only the audio.

Like where this is going........

Hi Joe!!! I'm bummed about the shipping issue, but we will get that back to you ASAP. Thanks for working with us on this fit and application, your input has been very valuable. I'm looking forward to seeing the installed product on your ride. Eric.

Looks Good!

Hi Everybody! Nice to be here at SSA!

Nice work Mark! It keeps getting better, another little update today too. Now to get us set up here so we can do even more.

Funny, but not that funny.

^^^ Thanks! He PM'd about this earlier, we will be taking good care of his unit.

Hi Nick! Great giveaway we have going here, starting to get some response. We are looking forward to building the unit for the lucky winner, just waiting to see who it may be. I'm interested to see how creative some of our people can be with these videos, there's a lot of talent out there and we could see some very entertaining stuff coming our way. Guess I better get on it with my own system, got to get some IA stuff in there soon. -eric@mechman-

Got a 270a unit for your car, 165@ 700rpm, 270a@ 1700rpm. All of our good stuff inside. $449 + shipping, two-year warranty and we are quick to respond to your calls or emails. Add our voltage adjuster for $49 with alternator purchase. Shipping $25 or less in the 48 states. Email me- eric@mechman for more info or to order.

I guess I should find a local with a set of these in their ride so I can hear them, this might be the route I go on the budget build for my cop car.

I have seen VSS failures that can cause those symptoms, TC lockup failures too. It can be a simple solenoid or sensor replacement to fix in many cases. I have worked at far too many shops that just throw transmissions in every time there is a problem because too many "Master Techs" don't know how to properly diagnose simple transmission repairs.

What codes were stored in your computer? Got to be careful, shops will sell a transmission rebuild when it can be a simple fix. The codes can tell a lot.

When this unit goes out of warranty I do offer rebuild services at a very reasonable cost. If you are going to have it fixed locally be sure that they use the higher capacity diodes, many local shops will stick the stock style rectifier in there and that will not last long.

My 240 isn't running the stock alternator so I can't measure pulley dia, but if you measure crank pulley dia and your alt pulley dia you might find that at idle you are running below the turn-on speed. What RPM is your idle? How about cruise RPM at say 40mph? As for the 40mph cruise issue, that could be in the alternator design. It could be a poorly designed alternator or it could be your rotor speed is low. Not all alternators are created equal, many of the 270a units out there are nothing more than a stator upgrade and won't pull the advertised power down low. If you are done with your warranty and want someone to check it out for you I would be happy to bench test it and inspect it for nothing more than the cost of your shipping. Then if it's not performing up to spec we can advise you on what needs to be done to the unit to get it up to the task. I'm always willing to help out a Volvo owner, my autocross car is a 244 and I have owned several. Just sold my 245 2 months ago and I am looking for another for a good audio build.

The Jeep is getting some audio installed right now. So far we have a new Pioneer HU, 4 pair of CDT coaxials and are waiting for our 10" sub from Incriminator to arrive. An open top TJ isn't going to get loud or have great SQ, we are just building a system that will sound good enough on the highway over the road noise and give something to listen to on the trails. There's no point in using expensive speakers on this build, they will be swapped out regularly due to exposure to the elements. The amp is being installed in the steel locking console as is the head unit, both to protect from mud, water, hail and the garden hose. It also will give just a little more theft protection. A custom-built sound bar in front will provide some of the sound as will the sound bar in the rear. Pics and video to come. Up next is a 14v install on a PCM controlled Ford, my car. This one is going to require a little engineering but we will make it happen. No check engine or battery lights allowed in my DD!

Here's our 97 Jeep TJ with one of our 270a High Output bolt-in conversions charging 2 XS Power S1400 14v batteries. 14v power is where it's at for off-road, car audio, racing, anywhere you can't run a 16v system. Charging @ 16.8v FTW. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txmBckhKHSA For more info email [email protected]

Damn rodents, been there.

I can have a 270 out the door shipping to you in 2 days or less. We will have our vendor space set up here as soon as we have the time, we have been busy building alternators and have not had the time to get established with Mark over here. That's happening this week, look for it.

Ah, Mr. Franklin, my best friend.

The idle problem you are describing- Is your car automatic or manual trans? Have you checked for vacuum leaks? You could have something as simple as a split in a vacuum hose causing that. When the idle is that high and you can't stabilize it with TPS adjustment that leads me to thing vacuum leak, air introduced between the MAF and the throttle body, a sticking IAC or a throttle plate not fully returning to closed position. Without seeing and hearing the car it's hard to tell, but with an idle that high solving the problem should not be too hard.

The voltage regulator only sets max voltage, so setting it @ 15.1v cold with a load on it and the engine speed up will insure it won't overcharge. You are setting max charging voltage, but there are more variables in the works that determine system voltage.