dbjunior

the amp is 150x4 i have a q18 but will be using a pair of dc lvl4xl10's tuned to 32hz for daily. i havent gotten much done lately with a foot of snow on the ground and no garage.

cadence cvl-5k they sound great and get loud. the midbass is tangband w8-740p im gonna change them to most likely dayton Qt-210-4 8's the w8-740p is a better sub than midbass, the freq fade after 100hz so i need something capable of a higher range.

so how was it.

the build im working on im doing both. i have a passive setup for the comps but between the comps and midbass its active. using a 4ch ch1&2 for the comps and ch3&4 for the midbass.

the speakers you have listed will be fine definately should be louder than stock. if you want to get rear fill later get the SQA-4 i think its like 100 bucks it will give the fronts 100w and 60w for the rear. for rear fill i wouldnt use anything with a tweeter. its a bit exspensive for your budget but these would be great. looking at the freq response they should be good from 80 to 1k so it would be a great mid without doing to much damage to your soundstage. also you dont want your hu 35/35 hu do clip to after you get your amp installed you would want to set the gain with the volume at like 28/35 you will still get the same volume but wont be near as clipped. also for now if you want install a front comp set and amp and just use the stock speakers for rear fill just fade forward at 28/35 until you get no distortion out of them.

the install is the most important part in a system so id look into doing a new box. from exsperience with an ex cab dakota they suck to get loud and peak is at 41 or 42hz its varied with boxes.

wrong topic

a pair of tens in a really well designed box with a decent amount of power will get louder than you think in that car. if you want to do a wall id suggest doing it right and getting a van put like 6 mj18m's in there tuned to 28hz and rattle your eyes out. i suggest the mj's because they are a good and very affordable 18 and with the space in a van why not use more cone area than 2 18's for about the same price.

currently running a huge box with a fi q18 takes up the entire back seat of my truck. i love the output for the power i have and the low tuning, but it needs to come out for a carseat. i have a pair of tangband w8-740p's, single 4ohm 150wrms 8's. im thinking about building a box 1.75cu tuned to 39hz with 26.25sq of port , trying to get the most output possible. not sure how to design the box was thinking about trying a loaded horn thing like thumpper did with the icons. anyone with exsperience with these speakers or small truck boxes any imput of how i can get the most out of these 8's would be great. vehicle is 99 dakota x-cab.

no got the auto didnt have much of a choice though got the 87 944 and a matching 87 924s for $1300 at a local junk yard. the 924s interior is a little diffrent and the fenders arent as flared but the motor an trans are the same and the hatch and all the windows the same as the 944. both ran and drove the 924 didnt have a title so its a parts car and the 944 was covered with about an inch of bondo all down one side. i pulled the interior and sanded the whole car down to metal pulled a couple small dents a tiny bit of bondo and coated it with primer/sealer then high build primer and sanded some more. looks decent but i need to buy the paint and sand it and coat it with more primer. its gonna look sick when its done. and the build quality of these cars is incredible.

idk what im gonna do with the q yet i might sell it or use it in a hometheatre. im not gonna do a blow thru the truck doesnt have a cap and i dont plan on spending any money on it. i have an 87 porsche 944 that im redoing, its gonna have a pair of dc lvl4xl10's and an atomic 5000.1 run at 2ohm daily and .5ohm comps. it's gonna have custom fiberglassed door panels with the 8's used as midbass and a 5.25 comp set. the daily box is gonna be ported and the comp box will be 6th order bandpass. id consider trading the q18 for a lvl4xl10 dual 2ohm but i havent seen anyone trying to sell any.

and you gotta love how people think there chit is louder because a vid. i love whatching vids but you cant tell anything about how loud as system is by a vid unless it has a tl with numbers.

id do the 8's. i think it would be cool when someone says damn thats loud what you got in that thing and you flip the seat up to show off some 8's. from what bigjon says the bl's are a little more musical than the shades but the shades have a bit more output.

a quasi sixth order i think would be best if designed correctly but winisd cant do it. bbp6 can but it cost a bit. you might beable to have thumpper or bjfish design a box for you just give them the dimensions the goal and the equipment and they can send you a blueprint. the quasi sixth order would be like a ported box firing into another box that has a port just use the blowthrew as the port for the second box and you will be good to go.

superglue is to brittle. use ca glue or a fast dry epoxy like a 5 min or 30 sec epoxy you can get it at walmart

the only thing that would make it look any better would be the 5k not yet made.

only problem is you lose a lot of gas milege in a prius if you had a really powerful stereo due to the gas motor having to run more to charge the batterys. the smart car though has a decent amount of room enough for a set of 12's and a couple batts.

being the front is 180deg off from the back you want the back wave to be as close to double the length as the front so the distance from the speaker to a point on on the dash should be half the distance as the wave travel from the back of the cone so if you look at the diagram its 2a=b+c+d but depending on the way you have the box setup you might have more angles to add to both the front and back wave.

get or build an adapter plate and get some good 6 1/2 comps

not all fords are hard i had to do one one my bronco it took 20mins. pop the clovebox off and undo like 6 screws and there it was. then undo the hoses under hood and pull it out. it took like a wwek for me to get the money for it so i just put i jumper pipe in under the hood and it worked fine so if you are using it just for comps like bigjon said just use a jumper.

yeah but the build is completley unrealistic for anyone in the real world. if your vehicle is used for daily look into the loud stock vehicles.

some options. $99 amp1 $115 amp2 $150 amp 3

what do you plan to do for a box style. subs up port back. do you have a strong electrical, what upgrades. how large each chamber.

if your gonna build the box anyway you should just do it now. it probably wont cost you any extra if you build a dual chambered box vs a shared chambered box. as far as construction of the box 3/4 should be fine id just do a double baffle and bracing. proper bracing is stronger than a double layer so the extra 1/4in wont make much of a diffrence if properly braced.

just build a dual chambered box so you can use the 1 you have now and just drop the other in when you get it.