dbjunior

how do i calculate power from my amp. if i have my sub wired at 1 ohm and i play a test tone say 60hz and measure the voltage how do i calculate that into watts. i know you multiply volts by current to get watts but how do you know the current at diffrent loads. not sure if im missing something i just always see people say i measured this many volts at this load so it is putting out this many watts and i never see a current measurement. is there a standard current output per load or something. just want to learn a little more thanks

i have a dmm so i can test voltage just wasnt sure if there was some formula for current never seem to see anybody mention measuring current even though its the other half of the equation

not sure if they can but why would you get the dual 2 ohm if you cant get the dual 4 ohm what are you wiring to if you are wiring to 1 ohm get the dual 1 ohm so you can still get a 1 ohm load if you get dual 2 ohm you would be looking at a .5 ohm or 2ohm setup and your amp probably wont do .5 so you will be stuck getting less power with the 2 ohm setup

looking at the box in first posts and listening to the videos it sounds like when you turn up the volume the box is vibrating off the back of the sub like the box isnt deep enough try using a spacer ring and listen to it turn up the gains and such if you still get the distortion then idk if it just gets louder and no distortion leave the spacer.

I suppose if someone REALLY wanted a 10" I could build it... but I don't see why *laughs* two 10's have more cone area than a 12 but are normally classed togeather in comps based on cone area. plus you can give two subs more power than 1 equaling higher numbers

its been a while where are the parameters the website guys busy or do you not have them yet. thought they were going up last week sometime.

if it is a custom could someone order 10's dc sounds has a sub like that a pair of them would look sick mounted inverted the only problem is making the basket capable of serious excursion like 3-4in mech maybe a 15in basket bent in to hold a 10 in cone strickly inverted mounting

i have a q 18 and wished i got the bl but if your looking into a pair of 18's the bl is better for you than the hdc3. im not sure on pricing but the dc sound labs lvl 4 is a very good sub for your app. large box tuned around 38hz will slam lack a little lower end but be crazy loud if you weant more low end tune around 34hz

thermally the bp optioned should take the 1500 fine as long as it is clean but keep it a little lower just to be safe. mechanically depends on the box

i might be new to this forum but not car audio or other forums

looking for some comp amps that do 5-7kw @1ohm can only be a single amp not strapped amps. used for usaci 601 to 1800 class so the 4 ohm output needs to be 1800 or less. that or an amp with 4ohm under 600w capable of .5 ohm power around 4k thanks for the help

anybody please? i was looking at the aq3500 or cadence zrs9000d i know there are more

i agree the 1 inch or so should be fine most vent holes on bottom of magnet are about 1 inch some larger, but it is there for a reason mostly cooling, as long as there is decent airflow between the box and vent it should be fine

the sub needs to be the width of the vent away from the back wall or it can effect power handling due to poor air flow. if it is touching you might pop the dust cap off from to much pressure behind it

just looking for bl and mms helps when looking at sub a strong motor and light soft parts make a great ported sub the new btl is supposed to have a really strong motor but idk about cone weight yet light cones like high tuning great for spl boxes and a strong motor will slam it around with authority for even bigger numbers. 16kw is nice but i dont plan on that much power anywhere from 5-7kw is where ill be, and not for daily use.

look at the cadence sound outlet section you can get a txa 6004 for 179 shipped 4 ch. then get a set of the cwm-6kit components 75 shipped. you can get a fi ssd15 dual 2ohm and run it of the rear channels and comps in the front. that comes to $463. go to walmart and get yourself a pioneer deck for about $100 and you should be good to go. if you can find large enough wires at walmart get them. build yourself a box and you will have a complete system for around 600

there are only two specs im interested in the the bl and mms im doing a comparison between spl subs a power to weight thing. everyone knows a light powerful motor does great ported so i want to see how each sub stacks up and how it differs for sub size so far the 12 looks the most favorable

i have a 99 dakota club cab and total space to use 49w 20h 18.5d. i have a fi q18 and 1k powering it. ive tried a couple setups but cant find a setup loud enough. my truck peaks at 42hz but i cant get it to hit over 141db. i have tried sub up port to side/passenger side. sub forward port forward. sub forward port side/driver side. tried 4.5cf 7.94cf single 4in port and dual 6in port. if any ideas id love the help

i know its not designed for spl but i have done well with other sq subs in other installs. i used a 12in boston acoustic g5 with 300rms and hit a 140 even. it was a diffrent vehicle but still i hoped for more. its more than triple power and a lot more cone area. i figured i could squeeze a 145 out of it. its just a matter of finding the right configuration

id do the 15 with sub and port facing rear as close to the back as possible you also want to make sure there is enough room for sound to pass around box. personaly a good 12 with good box and plenty of power should be more than enough. if your looking at the btl 12 with say 2k-2500rms daily i wouldnt doubt with a good box you could see mid 140's and with that kinda bass you better have a killer front stage

i have not tried that alignment yet but as far as tuning its a lot lower than i had it before it was tuned at 37.5hz it had the best graph for 42hz. has anyone tried this alignment before in a excab truck if so ho did it work. i know its not the best setup for comps i plan on using it as a daily setup once i can afford to purchase a new sub and amp. will eventually go in a hatch but for now all i have to work with is the truck