dbjunior
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Everything posted by dbjunior
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what about 5000d any progress or back burner
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if its 10 cubes before displacement you would probably be better trying 2 15's than 2 18's my 18q is in a box 9.xx cu after displacement its loud low and sounds great. never bottoms out unless you where to run tones well below tuning and with lots of power. the bl would be better for you than the btl unless you plan on doing some serious electrical upgrades. personally 2 15 bl's or the dp 21. depends on power you want/can run and budget. dp 21 plus a saz1500d or 2 bl 15's and a saz 3000d plus batts and upgraded alt.
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SSA Icon 10" Test Enclosure (breaks 140db @ 24hz!!)
dbjunior replied to Thumpper's topic in Pound That Sound
sounds real crisp on the higher notes not sure about lows camera distorts to much but its probably loud. do you have a meter or know someone who can check it love to know 25 30 35 40 45hz readings to see how its response is in that design -
wouldnt reccomend 6x9 if for rear speakers leave them out if for front speakers build a baffle and put a 6.5 or 5.25 set of comps with a nice amp. it might be cheeper for you if you have a local shop build a box for you international shipping would be killer on a good box.
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if you want sq get the Q they will still get loud as well have the box built for you a 12 ported should only cost 150- 200 depending on shipping cost it could cost extra but depends on what you want extra have a box built to large specs and tuned to 28-30hz for the q if you get a 1500d get the bp option and make sure it is not a clipped signal. a bl can still sound decent but will handle the 1500 better tune the bl to 32 and build a large box. if you have the tools build it yourself its not hard. when looking at power ratings only look at rms not max max power means nothing
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sq-l and lsg same thing depends on the forum. as far as that box goes i would build a cheap box 3cu after displacement tuned to 35hz with like 50sqin of port area. the subs he has are really crappy flea market equipment so i would not exspect loud an quality from them in any box. i would also like to let you know they will not handle anything near what they are rated to handle so if he bought a decent amp he will most likely fry them. look at building a box for type r's atleast he will have a decent box for when he needs new subs.
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SSA Icon 10" Test Enclosure (breaks 140db @ 24hz!!)
dbjunior replied to Thumpper's topic in Pound That Sound
i designed an enclosure like that for an 8 but the sub was firing at what would be your back wall so deeper in the port. i figuired it to be like a ported enclosure firing toward the liscence plate in a trunk car.the back had more room in it than the port itself and worked around intoa horn like yours. id love to know how that box works and what it is tuned to. i was going to try it in an spl setup. -
i wouldnt bother with the caps if you bought them already try to sell them you would be better off getting a small bat instead like a powermaster d680 or d1200 if you can fit it. one bat would probably cost less than the two caps and do a much better job of helping your electrical needs for long bass notes.
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Port Design, box for 18"Q 6.7cu. ft.. Aero port...
dbjunior replied to snb778's topic in Fi Technical
i have a q18 and have tried a few setups. my advice follow fi's suggestions. for a 6.7cf box just to make 12sqin port per cuft 80sqin thats means you will need 6-4in ports and having the small box you should tune to 32hz making them 26.85in long after displacment you will have just about 5.25cuft its a little small but it should sound better and get louder than with just the 3. if possible to gain a little air space you could have the ports stick out of te box a few inches. my box is 13.35cf tuned to 28hz with 174in of port area after displacment it just comes under 10 cu its loud and loves the lows. i have tried sealed and small ported as well and it needs the minimum port area or more. -
dont worry about the ports if its tuned right and has the right amount of port area it will be fine by switching to one port you may gain a tenth or two db's . as far as everything else you need big three and 1/0 power wire if you want any decent amount of power to go to that sub. if that amp can even put out any real power. after upgrading the wires look into a ho alt and a second battery then a good amp to power it like a saz 3000d then you will notice a huge difference in out put.
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how does the hatch handle the bass im turning a 87 944 into a daily driven comp car plan on putting a 15 with 5-7kw in the hach. have you done testing to see what frequencys the car likes and what is the tuning on you box.
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the best easy to calculate thing you could use is 1x1 just add all the length up and divide by 1728 to get displacement use 1 rod per sq ft and you should have no flex with a single layer of mdf
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the port should look like an s not L with the height of 16in you will still have plenty of room under the sub for clearence of the bottom of the sub. sub up port back is a very well proven design for suv's the port area is also calculated for the box before displacment so it will fit in the fi specs. i have a q18 in a really large box 13.34cu before displacement with 174sqin of port area tuned to 28hz after displacement it is under 10 cu. the sub slams, absolutley loves the lows and still handles the higher frequencys nicely build it like i said and you will surely be happy remember sub up port back with port on bottom
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16hx36wx22d sub up port back. port size 34.5wx2.5hx36d on bottom of box facing hatch it will need to be a two peice port to get correct length. the box is 5.93cf before port and sub displacement after it comes to 3.94cf tuning is just under 30hz it will have killer low end and still get loud. you will need to set a subsonic filter at 20hz to prevent damage to the sub enjoy
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if they are anything like the old btl's you will want 440sqin of port about 21in long tuned about 33hz peaks around 36hz. are your goals pure spl for comps? if so have you had your vehicle frequency tested 36hz is a little low to burp at for high numbers. have you tried higher tones like in the 40's with the 400sqin it should peak at 42hz the aeros peak at 36hz even with to small of port area they would still do better at 36hz
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2005 Super Street Death Match Video
dbjunior replied to FloridaSPL.com's topic in SPL & SQ / Fabrication
big bob uses t3 audio subs now not memphis and it is much better louder to i think he hit over 170 once -
i have the base model q18 and a 1kw amp that has been tested to put out 1200wrms. i have my q in a large box behind my seat in my truck and i can smell the coil a little if i blast it for a couple mins. the amp was set correctly with a dmm so i know its not clipping. so i was wondering if there was anything i could do to improve the cooling so it doesnt get so hot. could i add the bp optioned vent plug to the pole or would i need to sent it in to get work done to it. i dont want to void any warranty so if you could help fi guys that would be cool.
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sub setting is at zero volume 28 out of 35 with no distortion on speakers and setting the gain i had volme and settings set to max listening volume 28 not 35 i played a single tone and measured volts until it stopped rising fast then turned down 1 volt so it shouldnt be clipping even though it is rated 1k does it sound as if it is getting to much power if so is there anything i can do to increase power handling like improve cooling
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how loud is loud to you in dbs two 18 q's with that power should be easily capable of 145db if you have room for the right enclosure. i have a single 18q and have gotten 142.7db with a 28hz tuning so they will get loud and real low if you are looking for louder than that go bl but you will lose some low end.
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if you know what you are doing it should be easy you need to build the right enclosure and know how to correctly set a gain so you dont clip the hell out of it. if you are worried still get the cooling
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they have had the specs for a while they just need to be put up, must be to busy making and selling them to put them up
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anyone have any opionions about there amps slowly designing a comp system and was looking at the two top amps from them i was also looking at the stetsom 7kd and the cadence zrs 9000d they are all around same power and i can get each at close to same cost if i find a better option i will look into that looking to spend around 1k or less
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you will be fine if its ported you wont get as much excursion especially around tuning if powering it with 1k or less you probably wont see near full excursion unless you dont set your subsonic filter correct and you unload the sub i have a q 18 ported with 1 k on it in a huge box in my dakota extended cab before displacement it is 13.35 cuft tuned to 28hz with 174sqin port final volume around 9.75cu and i still dont see full excursion unless i try running a 20hz tone. most music on full volume i see about an inch of total travel maybe a little more. its nice and loud though, i can burp a 142.7@41hz not bad considering its tuned to 28hz and the lows are just amazing. 33hz tuning might be a little high if you want killer lows try 30-31hz
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first is the box sealed or ported and how much power do you plan on using. if it is sealed is it on the small side or large side of the box reccomendations. the submay be capable of a large xmax but you might not use all of it so you might be ok
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from what ive heard yes listening not word of mouth. the q is better compared to the w7. they even have graphs of the frequency response and they are near identical. the w6 is a slightly better sq sub but if you want a little more output the q is the better sub just like the w7 and comparing the price of a w7 to a q the q is a way better value