dbjunior

just wanted to know when we could hope to get specs. the subs look sick

do you know anything about the nsb75. its not designed for the car audio market but it is popular for a reason.

if you can order one directly from them thats cool. i thought aa was strictly a dealer purchased sub and fi there online company with slightly diffrent products.

nobody. probably just gonna get the hc2000 then, its the cheapest one.

kind of disapointed its a aa not an fi. someone around me needs to start carrying aa.

a neo motor like the dd z just better, nice. and a 80.1 holy sh!t love to see amp guts on that.

dont think you will get an alt for 150 id look into a 200-250amp alt. an alt that size would be around 3-400

I guess I've just never broken myself of the habit of hooking my subs up in seperate channels rather than hooking them up mono. Is there a benefit to doing so? Would the 3000d outperform the 2 1500d's? I'm not opposed to the idea at all. sub bass is not directional so a stereo setup is not going to help. having one amp vs. two is better efficency and would cost less. look at db-r.com for a saz3000d cheap

best bet install the system and go from there. you might find you dont need any, if you do though it will point you straight at the area. considering you are looking at a w6 id have to say sq is your main concern so you will have less rattling than someone looking at a high spl vehicle.

i hope there is a new 40.1 or bigger to push it. could you imaging a 60.1

even with 2- 15's i dont see you doing 150. not that its not possible but the tuning is to low for starts. it will be one loud daily but not really a comp car. if you want to compete you need to do everything that will boost the output so the tuning should be about 2-3hz lower than your vehicle peak. take a look at the trunk car build he is running 5k to a pair of tens and doing high 140's you could do similar with the 12's in the right box.

what battery how many cubic inches

how so? do they clip at low volumes? not that im pro ma but there power is clean its just over rated and not that reliable of equipment. if you watch your temps and keep the voltage up at rated stable loads you will be fine for a couple years

as far as the q goes no need to get the bp option. it will take the 1000w all day long. it can actually handle a little more thermally. as far as mechanical handling i dont think you will ever reach it. i was feeding mine 1200w daily in a oversized ported box and had no issues unless i were to go way below port tuning. the sub has great xmax but i can move even further than that before it bottoms. i have seen mine move a ton and never bottomed it out. due to money i had to sell my amp and now run it on the last 2ch of my 4ch amp its only 600w but you would never know that listening to it.

you dont need a 2kw amp for a 1kw sub. one rockford 2000w and 2 bl15's. subs and port fire forward seal of the trunk. or two 12's rear firing.

lol beat me to it

i checked the manual online for it and it is a regular anl 300amp fuse. to see if it works you could connect the metal together with just about any fuse to see if it lights up. if it does get the right one.

i was at a comp a while back had a single 12in boston g5 with a bazooka 300wrms amp and took second with a 140 i even beat a guy using a 12in solox with a kicker zx2500 on it he only hit a 138.xx

not a voltage regulator but a voltage stepdown like the powermaster pn993 it can step down 2.4 or 3.6v you set your alt voltage to 17v and connect this to the output then the 12v battery to the 3.6v stepdown so it charges at 14.4v there will also be a wire going directly from the alt to the 16v bat to charge it at 17v.

how do you have them separated. do you have a voltage stepdown on the alt.

mdf doesnt burn very easy. plus im sure the chemicals in the glue are toxic and would not make very healthy smoke. to bad you couldnt send them to the mdf manufacurer and have them grind them into new sheets.

kinetik recommends 4hc2400's for the rear for the amount of power you are using thats over 500ah. you have 4hc1400 thats only 240ah less than half. id add two or 3 hc2400s. your amps are rated at 4400wrms each thats 8800w, plus they are high current amps not class d meaning the are less efficient. at 75% efficency they would be drawing up to as much as 750+amps. durning heavy bass music play id bet you would be drawing over 500amps. a 165amp or so alt wont cut it without serious batterys.

spl is junk and if you go crunch the only decent amp is the gp3000 the smaller amps are just the max power ratings equal crap.

tuning is just under 32hz and is 4.37cu before displacement and 3.59 after. should have decent lowend. if you want a little more out of it down he road just shorten the port to 20in it will retune it around 35 should be a little louder on rap.

what are the dimensions on the port