dbjunior

the only diffrence is you tune a lot lower and you wont get the boost like a car.

The dcon will be capable of less excursion then the Icon. Going to be approx 15-17mm, but will not know for sure until we have the version that is going into production. what is holding it back. the basket looks identical so im guessing same size spiders just not as stiff or less of them. the magnet stack is also just as tall so mechanically other than the surround it looks just as capable. the coil i cant see so im guessing that is what is holding it back. the motor strenght wont be as strong but in the right enclosure im sure it could reach just as much just not linear.

anything larger than the vc should be fine the weight diffrences shouldnt make an audible diffrence.

i think you should try a ported box for the sub as comparision. it could give you extra lowend definatley more volume and less likeley to bottom out the sub. and as far as space goes a 12 ported should still leave you with plenty compared to the 15 ported you had.

hows it bang now.

not bad but id use more port area like 2 4" or just do a slot port with like 30in of port area it will need to be 36in long.

not that you dont know it but higer fs subs are peaky and with the proper box the peak can be at low freq. just for the heck of it take a q18 and model it and take an old btl18 and model it the btl can handle more power and with 8 cu tuned to 20hz you can get a sweet output at 20-30hz the q18 is like 4db down at 20hz in the same box with same power. then throw 3k at it and see an 8db diffrence.

why you want huge numbers below 30hz idk but have you checked out thumpers build of the two icon 12's it does great numbers on those low freq's and can be built to fit any sub if you have the room.

they shouldnt have any problems if it does it comes with a 1 year warranty but as far as i know no saz3000d has failed when operating within recommended conditions.

id save a little more 675 you can buy a saz3000d on db-r.com much more reliable and underrated.

how well would they work as a midbass i have beefy 8's but they fall off quick after 120hz if they are good to 250 use them as midbass if not they will bump the wrecker.

perfect 0db +/- isnt for everyone. some like just loud some like really low. you sound like what you want is a sub capable of getting really loud and low. if you build a huge ported box tuned really low most sub will do this some better than others. but you dont need huge xmax for this the low fs will help though. on top of that how low do you plan on going you cant hear below 20hz and not very much music plays below 30hz.

the comps are sick the flexability of the crossovers is really nice and the butt of the woofer looks like a btl but its a neo magnet for more strength than a standard magnet. id love to hear them.

like how the tuning freq of a box is the loudest but it moves the least although the more you can make it move at tuning the louder it will be where a strong motor and high power handling come to play.

hey if he wants to buy a premade box have him buy a fisher or pts box with a kerfed port. you know it will look sweet and be perfect for the sub plus he wont need to build anything. on a second note what guy doesnt want a reason to use power tools.

the power supplies will handle almost 2k at 675w each so the smallest powermaster or kinetic should work for the extra strong draws of current or get a fourth. you will also have to run them off of either a 20amp or two 15amp circuits in the house 120v 15amp is 1800w but take the 2k you want and figuire in the 80%efficency and your gonna trip a 15amp breaker a few times.

3 of these will cost less and supply more power psu connect the 12v in parallel to a small sealed bat then to the amp and hu and you should be good.

you can do computer power supplies some are up to 1200w and you can link several together but a small sealed batt added for some storage would be nice.

yes but if you reach thermal breack down of a sub before reaching half of a subs potential displacement what is the point of having the capability's that much when another sub with less potential displacement can displace more.

in a ported ap the box is the most important part. i have a q18 capable of a lot of displacement, but never see anywhere near its capabilitys. the box is over sized and i have sent almost double the rms to it and still didnt reach close to full potential. if i were to play below tuning id move a lot of air and possibly bottom out the sub and it wouldnt be loud.

Who do you need so much xmax? Lots of stuff can do that too... bet this starts a debate... but thats what were here for... if I had only 1 spec to choose while purchasing/choosing a driver, screw power handling, efficiency, Vas, VC option...screw everything.... I want Xmax, as the overall determination of how loud and clean a speaker is... is it's linear excursion. I will take a 10" sub that moves 2 feet peak to peak but needs 10,000 watts to get there and 8 cubic feet. Because 2 18's that only have 6mm Xmax, but only take 4 watts to get there and .5 cubic feet between the two of them still has less output. displacement is important in a sealed box as well as efficency. the second you go ported xmax and efficency are nolonger the important parts. xmax is also not the most a sub can move its the xmech. a sub could have an xmax of 14mm but an xmech of 45mm.

what are your goals with the system. how much room do you have to use, how much power do you have, if you have an amp, if not what is the budget on that.

as long as its not a huge hole shouldnt be a problem. you can also put a flexible glue or sealent on it if you like.

powermaster doesnt do a dual purpose battery for a reason look into it on there site.

the bottom of the vc hits the backplate not a good thing will ruin sub. also you can on some subs bottom out the spider tearing them possible cutting lead wire depending on lead wire location. its caused by to much power in to large a box or playing below ported box tuning freq with too much power.