scottiej

If you just bought it, and the voltage is above 12.7V, you don't need to charge it or buy a charger.

These links are from old outdated threads, and as a competitor myself, I would not recommend using the PC1750 for SPL purposes. For street A, I would recommend the 2010 XS Power D2700 or NSB75. Also, the Deka batteries are made fom recycled lead which is great for the environment, and allows them to be produced very inexpensively. The trade off is life expectancy, and retension of performance over time... I would expect about 1 year of good use out of them in a high amperage car audio application, and would certainly not recommend them for competition.

Powermaster does not offer 250A alternators for daily applications. Perhaps you are thinking of the XS Power 250A alts for audio applications. Since this is the XS Power forum, that is what I will have to suggest The idle output is as much as 160A+... which is as much or more than we have tested from any other alt manufacturer.

Ya know, it's funny you ask. I just happen to have a whole van full of it. It's a 94 Astro built for major SPL, and it comes free along with the purchase of $8k worth of the magical SPL dust inside

Out of curiousity what does your electrical system consist of? 1 - 250A Alt, and what qty of batts? What about it isnt enough? I would be happy to help with recommendations on what could help meet your needs. Thanks!

If you want your voltage to stay above 14V during continuous full volume play, you will need to have enough alt power to supply the entire system. If you just want to minimize the amount of drop below 13V, then just add an extra battery just for good measure.

Or you could use the more economical 16V only charger. It's only $199... the 12/16V is $299.

18.5V will charge the bank, but I would recommend also using a good battery charger to charge them occasionally to keep them in good health. Ideal charge voltage is 19.2V @ 15A per D1000 battery.

Its good to allow for 100A of current for every 1,000W of power you plan to run. Keep in mind the most cars will need about 50A to power the vehicle's electronics, so for anything over 1,500W-2,000W, we would recommend a 250A alternator. In many occasions more than one alternator may be required to continuously power a stereo at 14V at full volume.

I have not replaced the factory battery. I have enough power to play with engine on. I just want to run a secondary battery to play my system with the engine off for a few moment. I don't need to play like that for hours long, let's say for 30 to 60 minutes "only" ! That is why I thought a secondary battery would be good. But I am afraid of the alternator power : would it be able to reload a rear battery ? I will use an isolator to protect my primary battery when the car is off. I would recommend replacing the front battery with the model that best fits the factory location. Once the front battery has been chosen, I would choose a secondary battery that best suits your amperage needs. To power 2400W for 60min contiuous without the engine running you will need a pretty large secondary bank to keep the voltage to the amps happy. I would recommend starting with a D3100 and see how that works out. If you need more run time, you can always add more!

If you are having trouble deciding which model to choose, feel free to shoot us an email at [email protected] or ask the members of the forum. There are many people here that are familiar with the XS Power brand, and can make great suggestions.

Finding the alternator you need for your car is easy... just follow the link below and find your application, and then shoot us an email at [email protected] or call at 800-4XS-POWER to have one built to order in just a couple of days. http://www.4xspower.com/application.asp We even offer them for Volvo's

XS Power batteries are shipped fully charged from our warehouse. However, there is no way for us to know how long they will be in the dealers hands. Therefore, we put a recommendation in the box that says to make sure the battery is fully charged before its initial use. This ensures that the customer gets the performance they expect right out of the box. 9 times out of 10 there is no need to charge a brand new battery

Exactly the same

I beleive SPL Audio in Trinidad has dealers in St. Lucia. Shoot them an email and see what they say.

We do not recommend charging above 14.4V for any 12V AGM battery. The XS Power batteries can withstand charge voltages up to 14.9V with minimal loss of life.

I dont know off the top of my head, but I am sure we will have an XS Power alt that will fit it. Just give us a call anytime. 800-862-7223

Hi Juan... the direct bolt in front battery will be the D3400 with 551 or 555 I-BAR kit. For 3,000W you may want to add an additional battery to the back. Check out www.xspowerbatteries.com for more info.

I've heard of them... mostly used in marine applications where the current draw is low and long. Not ideal for high current delivery for amplifiers.

Outside temps are not nearly as important as the ambient temp right around the battery. For best performance it's best to keep the open air temp around our batteries below 140 degrees. This is not the case for all AGM battery designs... many can not take this much heat.

The difference is how far the voltage drops under load. You want the voltage to your system to be as high as possible while you are playing to get the most power to your subs. Flooded and Gel batteries do not do well in this department. AGM is definately the way to go, and just any AGM is not necessarily the answer... they really need to be designed specifically for what we do, not just an off the shelf backup power supply type battery.

Originally the D3100's shipped with M8 hardware, but recently we have changed to M6 hardware to allow a larger surface for current to flow allowing more power to the amps Brass post and stud adaptors are available if you require a different type of mount. Also, 14.4V charging is recommended to promote the longest life out of the battery, however, it is safe to charge up to 14.9V in moderate temperatures.

Actually the D925 is a 550CA battery which is likely more powerful than the battery you have from the factory. We sell people the S925 model with the 527 side mount adaptor all the time to replace their old Optima Red tops and they have been very pleased with the results. The 925 will still power a system up to 1,000W when used as the primary (only battery) in the car.

Actually when choosing between battery company's I typically recommend talking to people who have used many of the brands you are considering. Battery ratings are kinda like amp ratings have been over the past few years, and there are a lot of people out there who like to "create" their own specifications without conducting any testing. You can rely on specs from reputable companies like Optima and Odyssey, but there are many others out there who's specs are laughable. AH really has little to do with what we are using the batteries for in car audio. AH is a 20hr test, so for example, a 100Ah battery can produce 5A of current for 20 hours before dropping below 10.5V at room temperature. This test is pretty useless for a car audio enthusiast without some other specifications listed along with it, like internal resistance for example. We have done our best to give wattage ratings for all of our batteries so you can easily choose the right size battery for your system. If you need further assistance with this info feel free to call the tech dept. at 800-862-7223 opt. 4

2 or 6 volts will not charge a 12V battery. You need to use a 12V AGM battery charger to properly charge AGM batteries. You can use a regular Sears 12V charger if you are in a bind, just be sure not to let the voltage exceed 14.9V during charge.