George

the weird thing is, the kicker claims to be "silver tinned copper wire". i dont know if i believe that...

i would take the pkd1 kit off ebay everytime (assuming i could get them for $83 shipped like they were for a while) if it was the old kollosus wire. however now, since they have what looks to be almost the same exact chit as the kicker wire, if i dont need more dblocks or any of that jazz, i would just go with the knukonceptz. meh, i like my old kollosus, and i love my kicker hyperflex. the new knu stuff should be nice as well. its a win/win to be honest

good god, glad thats over. no offense, however the last site sucked arse. it looked like a nigerian scam website or somechit. this one is a lot better.

not quite, you can play a good bit more under tuning than that. its not like you loose all cone control the second you go under tuning by 1hz. and for your inaudibility comment, you're off by a decent margin as well.

no doubt. i had a 15" btl off 3kw in 4.5 cubes and it took couldn't bottom out unless you went under tuning, gains set with a -6db test tone. i definitely dont see it bottoming out with a 1500w amp in 4 cubes, especially if you used a 0db test tone. i think there is another issue, especially since you have two drivers (one with a much softer suspension, and one with a much stiffer suspension, doing the same thing)....

what in the flying fudge. 300 for a box, 200 for an alt, and 300 on wires? PLEASE. try around $50 for a box and thats including screws and glue, 350-400 for a good alt, and $80-100 for the kicker pkd1 kit off ebay. Well if u are building ur own box i would say it would be around 70-80 bux if u do it right, but if the guy dosent know how to build one he could be paying upwards of 300-400 dollars if he gets a good one. a good alt does cost that much but u can get one on ebay for about 200 bux that will do just about the same thing, (the only ones that are truly custom are the HO engineering alts) and dude if u are doin chit the right way i see no reason why u cant drop 300 easy on wires, (people here dont usually recommend wal-mart rca's). the wiring kit on ebay (when i bought it) was a pkd1. comes with EVERYTHING you need besides RCA's. i got it for $83 shipped. i was in the mood to buy some new rcas as well. i bought the knukonceptz klarity kables....$7.99 for 5m ones. and i got 2 of them. better quality than the $30 a piece monster cable rcas i had a while back... you dont need 70-80 for a box to "do it right" either. mdf is $25 a sheet. depending on tuning and box volume, i have knocked out a box for 2 15's out of 1 sheet...

what in the flying fudge. 300 for a box, 200 for an alt, and 300 on wires? PLEASE. try around $50 for a box and thats including screws and glue, 350-400 for a good alt, and $80-100 for the kicker pkd1 kit off ebay.

i wonder how many people praising/bashing the BL or the Icon, have actually heard both woofers......

Thanks for the PM Nick. i see a dp in my future. ive pretty much tried all the "bang for the buck" woofers and was looking for something new. i think the only one left is the DP, and the direct pricing is VERY competitive especially since the price includes shipping! thanks again.

i would really like to know the direct pricing on the dp's. anyway i can get a pm?

when the btl had the regular tinsel leads, they came stock with the "extreme lead"s. now they are being woven or sandwiched between the spiders, so im not sure what they're doing now. the coil is already flat wound as well.

i love it. looks great. i had the same exact combo, except with a btl 15. the kx2500.1 IMHO, is just about the perfect amount of power for the btl.

according to scottie johnson they do 3600 @ 12.8V 4400-4800 @ 14.4V and 7500-8000 @ 17V all value are at 1 ohm. only real testing i have seen thus far.

its ok Scott. i ended up selling it back to the original owner. so alls well that ends well. now lets see....should i pick up 15" bl's to replace the 18" bl's i had? or maybe a single 18" btl to replace the 15" i had....hmmm of course brand new though, so i know the options on them lol

you never told me it was the spl gap nick. you just said if it was a dual 1 motor using the dual 1 coil would be just fine, but that wasnt my question, i was just trying to see if there was a way to use deductive reasoning to see if i had an spl motor or a daily optioned motor. i just quit bugging you because i figured i had emailed you enough times to drive you nuts. not trying to be a pest here bro

any truth to the black pole = universal? this would answer the question ive been having for a while now. edit: hmm some more searching seems to suggest the black pole is actually a teflon coating used to reduce noise from the former rubbing on the pole

i sent you an email regarding a technical aspect of the BTL. its regarding info on if there is a way to physically measure the gap on a btl motor to identify a SPL motor from a Daily gapped motor. i talked to Nick about this issue, but after being convinced that my btl was a daily gapped motor...i now am doubting it. i took the woofer out of the box today and the sound it makes is just so mechanical metallic sounding on music. this to me would suggest a spl gapped motor. this motor originally belonged to kenny pollock and he said the SPL and daily option were not available at the time when this motor was made. however, it does have all the other options on it (fully loaded). i have no history on the motor (was reconed) either other than what i sent to your email. i did also however see that 1 coil read .7 ohms and 1 coil read 1.4 ohms. could the differing coils add to this problem? i really want to recone it, but i dont want to waste my time on a SPL motor. ps: differing coils started after my attempt at trying to repair some tinsels underneath the dustcap.

i could hardly even get mine moving with ~1.5kw

loaded bl's will take that no problem.

no, you cant.

i do have a question though. you mentioned the port bends along the back wall. did you measure the length of the port down the middle or did you build it with a total of 33" of inside port wall? I measured down the middle of the port. I even drew a line on the box down the middle of the port before gluing and measured that line. The line is actually 31 3/4 in. because according to JLs tuturial I'm supposed to add half the width of the port if the port is running along one of the walls of the box. So, my port length is either 33 in or 31 3/4 in. I believe JL so, I say 33 in. As far as port noise go, my first box was 2.6 cubic ft and has a 1 3/4 in x 11 1/2 in port. I can't hear port noise while I'm driving and didn't know it existed until I decided to take a few videos on my digital camera. So, at least for my car, port noise only happens when you pop the trunk and watch the sub play, but not when I'm driving. Thanks for all the support, and hopefully this damn rain stops so I can finish building. i see this mistake all the time. your actually suppose to subtract half the port from the LV (port length) to get PLV (physical port length). adding physical port length to the port will effectivly lower your tuning even more. the point is you're suppose to try and shorten the port because the air is going to use part of that wall as the port, so you take away half the port width, so that your subwoofer still "see's" good catch. i didn't really pay attention to where he said he "added" half the port width to make up for the rear wall. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee well i see the JL FAQ area say to add half the port width for end correction which is why people always add to it. i think the JL info is based on trying to find your tuning. for example, measure the port physically, add half the width to get what the sub would really see, and then plug it into the equation. i dont really know. im sure JL has it right, just didnt put enough specific info to say what they were trying to accomplish.

here are the old ones. i know that they have the new cooling thing, so they might even be different from these but here is what scott posted

yes the specs are different for the fully loaded motors. i THINK they posted the specs up for fully loaded btl's a long time ago. im not sure however, and cant find them anyways lol

i have a fully loaded 15" d1 btl, only option missing is the universal. i am looking for a price for: 1) a d1 15" recone only for it and 2) a d1 18" recone and a 18" basket need it shipped to 91942, if you need it to determine shipping cost. thanks George

thanks nick. if i end up picking one up, do i just email you again? or do i post here?