George
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the weird thing is, the kicker claims to be "silver tinned copper wire". i dont know if i believe that...
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i would take the pkd1 kit off ebay everytime (assuming i could get them for $83 shipped like they were for a while) if it was the old kollosus wire. however now, since they have what looks to be almost the same exact chit as the kicker wire, if i dont need more dblocks or any of that jazz, i would just go with the knukonceptz. meh, i like my old kollosus, and i love my kicker hyperflex. the new knu stuff should be nice as well. its a win/win to be honest
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good god, glad thats over. no offense, however the last site sucked arse. it looked like a nigerian scam website or somechit. this one is a lot better.
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not quite, you can play a good bit more under tuning than that. its not like you loose all cone control the second you go under tuning by 1hz. and for your inaudibility comment, you're off by a decent margin as well.
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no doubt. i had a 15" btl off 3kw in 4.5 cubes and it took couldn't bottom out unless you went under tuning, gains set with a -6db test tone. i definitely dont see it bottoming out with a 1500w amp in 4 cubes, especially if you used a 0db test tone. i think there is another issue, especially since you have two drivers (one with a much softer suspension, and one with a much stiffer suspension, doing the same thing)....
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what in the flying fudge. 300 for a box, 200 for an alt, and 300 on wires? PLEASE. try around $50 for a box and thats including screws and glue, 350-400 for a good alt, and $80-100 for the kicker pkd1 kit off ebay. Well if u are building ur own box i would say it would be around 70-80 bux if u do it right, but if the guy dosent know how to build one he could be paying upwards of 300-400 dollars if he gets a good one. a good alt does cost that much but u can get one on ebay for about 200 bux that will do just about the same thing, (the only ones that are truly custom are the HO engineering alts) and dude if u are doin chit the right way i see no reason why u cant drop 300 easy on wires, (people here dont usually recommend wal-mart rca's). the wiring kit on ebay (when i bought it) was a pkd1. comes with EVERYTHING you need besides RCA's. i got it for $83 shipped. i was in the mood to buy some new rcas as well. i bought the knukonceptz klarity kables....$7.99 for 5m ones. and i got 2 of them. better quality than the $30 a piece monster cable rcas i had a while back... you dont need 70-80 for a box to "do it right" either. mdf is $25 a sheet. depending on tuning and box volume, i have knocked out a box for 2 15's out of 1 sheet...
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what in the flying fudge. 300 for a box, 200 for an alt, and 300 on wires? PLEASE. try around $50 for a box and thats including screws and glue, 350-400 for a good alt, and $80-100 for the kicker pkd1 kit off ebay.
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i wonder how many people praising/bashing the BL or the Icon, have actually heard both woofers......
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Thanks for the PM Nick. i see a dp in my future. ive pretty much tried all the "bang for the buck" woofers and was looking for something new. i think the only one left is the DP, and the direct pricing is VERY competitive especially since the price includes shipping! thanks again.
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i would really like to know the direct pricing on the dp's. anyway i can get a pm?
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when the btl had the regular tinsel leads, they came stock with the "extreme lead"s. now they are being woven or sandwiched between the spiders, so im not sure what they're doing now. the coil is already flat wound as well.
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i love it. looks great. i had the same exact combo, except with a btl 15. the kx2500.1 IMHO, is just about the perfect amount of power for the btl.
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according to scottie johnson they do 3600 @ 12.8V 4400-4800 @ 14.4V and 7500-8000 @ 17V all value are at 1 ohm. only real testing i have seen thus far.
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its ok Scott. i ended up selling it back to the original owner. so alls well that ends well. now lets see....should i pick up 15" bl's to replace the 18" bl's i had? or maybe a single 18" btl to replace the 15" i had....hmmm of course brand new though, so i know the options on them lol
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you never told me it was the spl gap nick. you just said if it was a dual 1 motor using the dual 1 coil would be just fine, but that wasnt my question, i was just trying to see if there was a way to use deductive reasoning to see if i had an spl motor or a daily optioned motor. i just quit bugging you because i figured i had emailed you enough times to drive you nuts. not trying to be a pest here bro