Whatshisface176

I've had this sub as my daily for only about 2 months and it finally feels like it's getting broken in. At the moment I have it on a hifonics brx2400 along with a kinetik hc600 (will be upgrading soon) 220 amp alt and runs of knukonceptz 0 gauge CCA (will be upgrading to OFC). Anyway my question is, why after bumping for about 30+ min does the dustcap progressively get warmer?? I had this problem before with some crappy RF p2's getting extremely warm on the cone right above the voice coil, but they were being pushed at full rms with good electrical. NOW i am pushing a 3k rms woofer with just a hifonics (probably 2000 watts) and poor electrical (for the time being). How is it that the dustcap is getting warm when the sub isn't even being pushed to rated rms (most likely 1000 watts under rms)

Sub and port facing cab

To be honest, that is almost what it looks like considering that the box takes up almost all of my trunk space front to back, top to bottom and side to side

I did once..... Almost tore off my trunk lid.. Not literally but you know... And the resonse was worse you might gain some output with a wall off. which would let you take it easier on the sub. Yeah walling off sounds like a cool project but it's my daily driver.. Plus my dad bought the car (still in high school) and i don't think he'd be to happy if one day he couldn't look out the back window or sit people in the back seats if you know what i'm saying lol no you wall off at the ski pass entrance. edit: rear seat and everything else would remain stock. if the rear seats have a solid back than you want to lay them down. So how does this walling off work out? I'm assuming the picture is an example?

the subsonic on his amp can do up to 35hz. Is that good or bad? Lol

I did once..... Almost tore off my trunk lid.. Not literally but you know... And the resonse was worse you might gain some output with a wall off. which would let you take it easier on the sub. Yeah walling off sounds like a cool project but it's my daily driver.. Plus my dad bought the car (still in high school) and i don't think he'd be to happy if one day he couldn't look out the back window or sit people in the back seats if you know what i'm saying lol

I don't have em at "explode". I really do have everything tuned right. Besides the ssf until tomorrow. But i do know what distortion sounds like and i can assure that the woofer isn't distorting or have any clipping signal

if you dont hear distortion, dont hear the coil bouncing off the backplate, and dont smell the glue (which is holding the coil together) melting, you're fine. All of this ^ is all thumbs up except for the "smell" which occurs after long periods of typically low hz tones played in songs ya thats the glue melting away. coils might go slinky on you soon, save some cash for a recone. Dang...

I did once..... Almost tore off my trunk lid.. Not literally but you know... And the resonse was worse

if you dont hear distortion, dont hear the coil bouncing off the backplate, and dont smell the glue (which is holding the coil together) melting, you're fine. All of this ^ is all thumbs up except for the "smell" which occurs after long periods of typically low hz tones played in songs

Well the port if firing into the cab, in which on the side the port is, the back seats fold down (port side is firing into the cab through the folded down seat) therefore it's not hard to smell anything if it is getting stinky have your tried different orientations with the box? is this a walled off install? walled off meaning the sub and port are both firing through the ski pass while sealing off the trunk from the cabin of the car. if its not walled off like that i would try port firing towards the trunk. this is typically louder but not in every case. trying it out is the only way to tell. This is not a walled off build. It's a 4 cu box in the trunk and sadly to say... There isn't another way to reposition the box....

I guess i just feel like a noob with everything in car audio. Like when i start to get one thing right, another one is wrong... Idk how to determine how much actually power is going to the sub and how it's going to react thermally. It just seems like an endless amount of things to learn between the acoustics and car electrical...

Well the port if firing into the cab, in which on the side the port is, the back seats fold down (port side is firing into the cab through the folded down seat) therefore it's not hard to smell anything if it is getting stinky

Nope running @ 1ohm. Sub is a dual 2. And okay i'll change that. And idk about trying to get "to much" out of the amp, I'm just running it @ 1ohm and have all the gains set right,(besides the sub sonic) which i will change.

Roughly 20

I have a grand am lol that single 15 basically takes up my whole trunk. I think i'll just turn down the subwoofer level on the head unit

That's another thing... "Proper enclosure" the sub is in a 4 cu ft box tuned @ 34hz and in my vehicle i only have about a 32-55hz response anything under or above that is basically nothing. I wonder if it isn't a very "proper enclosure" as you say. I mean i love the darn sub, but it just doesn't play well in the box.

Okay i think i understand your point now. Is there any way to avoid this? (Reaching thermal limit)

Oh.. Why would they rate the woofer at 3k though?

And i know i'm not clipping. Bass boost is set at 0 and the Level (gain) on the am is set at my head units rca output voltage

And it's just slightly warm. But my old p2 fosgates got way to hot to even touch.

Oh boy does it get stinky lol about 10 min into some bumping and it stinks the whole car up

yeah I kinda felt spoiled.. But I knew what it was when my dad said that I got something that was 67 lbs lol

okay thank you, And eventually I'll upgrade to 2 HC1400's and OFC wire. I got the sub as a Christmas gift from my dad and grandpa but obtaining all the electrical for it is being quite the process

Like I said, I'm in the process of upgrading. I'm 17 and still in high school, money is hard to come by