manbeer

try some of the mids that illusion audio made if you can find them, they are supposed to be terrific and are shallow as hell

My friend switched from Xenon's which were equal to or slightly more powerful than the PDX's we replaced them with, and while the Xenon's were running pretty hard the lights would barely dim with stock electrical (140 amp alt) The PDX caused some NASTY voltage drop, and batteries have since been upgraded to a pair of optima yellowtops, D35 and D31 and still causes some dimming. I don't think they are really that efficient. We were surprised how dramatic the change was going from 2 amps rated @ 1200rms and 1 at 200x4, to 2 at 1000 rms and 1 at 150x4. It was like they were drawing twice as much current

if the sub is the right VC configuration to make the most out of that amp, than by all means, a 15 should smoke the 10" i can tell you right now that if actually has an amp doing 1300 watts, that sub is not wired in a way that it is getting near that. I had a 10" T2 running off probably 12-1300, and that chit got HOT as hell, one day i brought it to the dealer for warranty repairs and it was fried when i got it back, but anyway, no way that a T1 would take that kind of power, the T2 could BARELY even when set up conservatively

Any idea what pricing will look like and if it's a new heatsink design or going to use the ones from the last gen?

i may consider giving this a shot in an IB setup as well, depending on whether or not there are any interested parties

I'm pretty damn excited! This is the first time i have won anything in the last 20 years, only other time was in kindergarten when i guessed closest to how many candy corns were in a jar and won them. Not only is it exciting to win something, but in this case i have won something NICE. Thats a first for me! Hopefully a sign of a turnaround considering it is approaching the one year anniversary of my car being stolen in a few weeks, which incidentally was exactly one year later, to the day, of me buying the car I already have a sealed box @ 1.25 cubes gross which should be a perfect 1.1 after displacement to start breaking it in on and for sealed box evaluation. I will also be building a ~2,5 cu. ft slot vented box for testing purposes as well

I just realized what a Spirit is, kind of like the sundance, right? Back in the "good ole days" my friend used to hit low 140's in his with 3 JL 12w6' in a giant box run off a RF Power 1100a2 (like 1800 watts on the birth sheet) So yeah...off a single 10" that is a DAMN good number! That's almost an all out SPL driver number from an SQ oriented sub, and the best thing about it is that you don't need a zillion watts and multiple batteries to support it

I am torn between one of these or a pair of Zuki's to power my front stage now. Wish this was staggered but in most applications it'll be better like this i guess. I'd just like to see like 2x250 and 4x100 or something

140ish in the Lexus 157-158 in the Eclipse GSX 145 in the 325is 145 in the M3 145 in the G35 of all cars besides the eclipse, the G feels the least stable at high speed. it drives like absolute doodoo

rather than spending 40 or 50 dollars on throwaway walmart subs, look into something like RE SE12's. they are selling for like 100 dollars a piece and are actually GOOD subs and will work in similar boxes to the Icon's. this way you can just swap them out when the time comes instead of redoing the whole box? This way you can also recoup most of what you spent when you are done, instead of winding up with paperweights

that's a very nice number

Curious to see what the DCON's can manage

oddly enough, based on a sealed box during testing, the woofer performed best in my G35 facing upwards and was louder with the seats up than it was with them folded down. in my BMW, it was much louder facing back, and with the seats open The only thing i can attribute this to would be that i could attribute this to would be the fact that the box was all the way against the back of the seat in the G and the trunk is long, as opposed to the BMW which had what seemed to be a shorter but higher trunk. The woofer was only a few inches away from the rear deck in the G

They are not actually 1000db. I believe they are in the neighborhood of 150-160db. I would love to make a "bait car" with one of these and keep parking it in bad areas with the keys in it. lulz

looks great, how much deadener did you use in total?

pssshhm i'd wrap myself in damplifier and walk on by

The ICON is currently my favorite sub in the $300 +/- range. While a lot subs exhibit some roll off down low it seems like it'll play 30hz just as loud as 50hz. You might get a tiny bit more peak output out of an SSD in a higher tuned ported box but it won't slam the lows like the ICON's, and i never even got to play with one ported

I would like to say get the two SSD's if you have the space as they would be well suited to a daily driver/groundpounder. However, it is hard to argue with the 5+db extra sensitivity that the BTL offers, that eclipses the 3db you would gain by doubling the cone area on the SSD's

Any of the new Soundstream amps i wouldn't bother with. They are nowhere near the quality of the originals that earned them the reputation the had, or of many of the other amps on the market today If you want a beastly pair of amps and are looking to stick to a class AB, maybe try 2 of the RF T5002. You can find them floating around as refurbs for like 220-250 each and they would put down a nice 1000-1200 rms into a 2 ohm load bridged If you want to go class D, an SAX2000 would be a perfect mate for the pair @ 1 ohm To get the kind of power you are looking for at 4 ohms, you would either need a gigantic class A/AB amp, or one like the JL/Alpine PDX which won't really be enough to move the subs the way you want from what i have seen.

Don't forget that USAMPSFREAK has great prices on these in the FS section. Even better than Ebay, and they have a warranty. I am about to pick up a pair of SE-XXX's from him to try

Damn why get rid of the 800a2? Class AB amps FTW!

wow i was pretty close! congratulations to the winners, put these to good use

I'm definitely interested in the 150x6, but are these going to be full range class d amps or what? I just prefer AB to D even on subs, but especially on full range applications. This cracked me up: What do you think of our idea of not having a mono block in the line up? My thinking is as follows: a) Mono blocks are dumb, they can only do one thing.

Those square MTX subs i wouldn't even put in the same class as ANY FI product. The 9500's are great subs though. RE makes some kick ass subs and the MT is a brute. The Q is not a competitor to the MT as it is more of an SQ oriented driver that gets loud rather than an all out SPL monster, but the BTL should stack up nicely to the MT. All that being said, i love the fact that FI is a made in america product, and it is nice to deal with companies like them, SSA, and Soundsplinter for example, that provide the level of one on one customer service that they do. This is why unless i am in the market for budget subs, anything over 200 dollars a woofer would be spent on a brand like these. You not only get a great product but stellar support. How many companies can you buy a product with and receive help with the setup or problem solving from the actual OWNERS of the company?

I like the Rainbow's as well, I just think that the DLS are a little more forgiving when listening to recordings that are not the greatest, and mp3's. I am telling you, get a set of UP6i's up front and you will love them.