hilton

thanks, that answers every question. You guys kick massive rump.

havent been here for a while, just been caught up in school and what not. Need some questions answered. I want to put a yellowtop in the back about a foot or two away from the amp. KX1200.1. How would you go about doing that, I'm thinking a battery isolator to keep from draining either battery when it's turned off. What gauge would I run to the second aux battery? Where would I run it from? The isolator? The alternator? I want it to charge along with my starter battery so it doesnt stay drained if I listen to it for long enough. Do I ground the second battery to the floor or back to the original battery? I really need some help so tell me everything you know about running two batteries in a setup.

alright big ass amp it is. So the only concern now is whether 4ga will be sufficient to connect the two batteries together, or should I use 0ga all the way through.

and also, if I'm putting a 150 amp fuse on the optima to the amplifier, do I need to fuse the four gauge to at least 150 amp as well?

or would it be easier to connect the batteries in series up front, and run 0g to the amp. I had no idea you could get it so cheap off of weldingsupply.com connecting the two batteries with one four gauge wire wouldnt hurt the system? Cause I thought the weakest link was your smallest wire. I need to do the big three, but thanks for your help kickin and supa. I already have a 4g ran to the back that's fused. In the setup you were talking about kickin, the four would be sufficient and charge the battery and still deliver enough power straight from the optima in the back? Thanks guys.

I am curious, alot of infinity subs and solobarics and such call for a pretty small ported enclosure volume (less than 1.5 cuft for a 10) If a sub has a recommended enclosure volume for a vented box of 1 cuft, what would happen if you put that sub in a 1.75 cuft enclosure?

I have some questions about the RL-I 10" Sound Splinter sub. Right now, I'm running a RF 601S that is rated at 300x2 at 2 ohms and 600x1 bridged at 4ohms. It has a maximum peak of 900x2 at 2ohms or 1800 rated watts bridged at 4ohms. Can this sub handle that peak? Cause that's how I blew my Cerwin Vega Vega10D4s. I want to purchase two of these subs, and hook them up to the RF amp. Got a box, and just want to clear this up. Thanks for the help!

you're too smart dave.

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I wanna hear your piece

that even answered the question better You guys have to be the most knowledgeable people I've ever met in the area of car audio!

that's what I needed to know, thanks for the quick responses!

Couldnt agree more

9 second quarter mile at 146.8 mph

how are you going to rebasket it to a 10? Will it have the 15" basket and an amazing xmax with a 10" cone?

a damn good tire is the bridgestone dueler revo, not too cheap, but excellent all around, you can get those for a 15" Also look at some of the yokohamas or kumhos they arent bad tires either.

It'd also be pretty cool to help mike out too haha Money coming in isnt usually a bad thing.

Crap, I'm still out-numbered, you people must spawn like animals in doom.

cant recommend anything for a 13 inch rim, sorry man. Your best bet is to go with those goodyears.

You old man haha

sounds like I found a winner, and Im glad I've been on this search for quite sometime. Was going to go for the RE SE10s, but they're a little more expensive, and I've heard nothing but good things for sound splinter off of this forum. Im gonna go with the RL-I, but I'll let Mike give his input on the box here.

that was 1.75 cuft for each sub. I was fairly concerned about the port area, it's a pretty small port. I think it measures 1.5"x 11.25" for each port, pretty skinny for a port. Kicks ass with those cv's. They just wont handle the power.

I also remember that the amp is underrated, so it probably puts out more than it's rated. edit: I also just saw that the RL-I isnt recommended for vented enclosures, and they dont have a 10" premium series. I'm trying to find great subs to fit in my box that is vented and was previously designed for two cerwin vega vega10d4s. 1.75 cuft tuned to 34Hz.

yeah the xmax and sound quality dont compare at all to the brahma and XXX or even the SX. You might want to look into those as well, the RE SX.

those brahmas in a ported box would reach full xmax at about 800 watts each, or if the box is pretty big, even lower power. Doubling the power (correct me if Im wrong dave) would only achieve a 3dB gain over reaching full xmax, and that would also risk damaging the driver. I'd suggest a bpx1100 wired at 4 ohms to get a fairly substantial output, or you can go with two of those GTO1201, but wire them at 4ohms. 800-900 watts would be perfect for a brahma in a ported box, or even in a sealed as you can see from dave's link above. You wont be disappointed by any means.