Jasonc13

Very nice construction! Hard to believe you only used a skillsaw What are you using for glue? Do you calk the joints as well?

Thanks, I'm having fun building stuff again. This circle jig I got from Lowes is slick. I'll take pics in action tomorrow. The Bosche plunge/base combo router just went on sale for $189. Good excuse to buy another quality tool.....haaa!! Can't wait to finish her up in the next few days. What do you recommend for box terminals?

Tuning higher does give more net volume, so Im all for that! House/Techno with strong builds is my fav music, but I do listen to rap and rock. You think 32-33 would be a good tuning?

Finally making some progress: Good news is the box will be larger than originally planned. Port area is 56.25in2, net volume is 4.48ft3 tuned to 30Hz. Is 30Hz too low? I still havent made the final cut on port length. Man I can't wait to hear/FEEL these suckers!!

Is the stinger no good? I figured it was better than the cheapo units on ebay. Thanks bass!

What is a good source for speaker wire and a Stinger display? Wire seems pricey at sonicelectronix and the like. What gauge should I use for the Xcons?

Will this be slight whistling at max volumes? I'm buying wood tomorrow. At least I can build the outside, while the guts still get sorted out I would just build it and see if it's okk for you. You might be content with it. It will surely be better than the Type Rs I have. Would 2 10s or a single 15 have been the best choice with the space I have?

Will this be slight whistling at max volumes? I'm buying wood tomorrow. At least I can build the outside, while the guts still get sorted out

Ok, Thanks! Is 50in^2 the lowest port area I should use? I have been aiming for 32Hz tuning, is that about right?

Yes, I'm going to use both 12s. So a side firing port design it is! Here is another attempt at Torres:

Yes, I have the subs. It may not be the best possible volume, but a great sound can still be had. So what is the best config for driver side focus of sound?

Yes these are the max box dimensions my trunk will allow and still be removable. So it looks like a slot port is my best option, correct? Any recommendation on which side or center would be the hardest hitting for the driver position in the car?

I wish I had that kind of space Bassink. Here's what I've come up with in Torres using 2 3" aero ports tuned to roughly 32Hz. Port length seems short, is this accurate?

After seeing the box Dave built for grayta, I plan to build one similiar. I stole these from grayta's thread, thanks! Are the honecomb looking braces necessary in the corners? Ready for gear: FInished product:

AMEN! Can't Fawwkn wait. Now would you guys please help me with the box configs? I want to start cutting stuff this week

Any foam in particular, or just the expanding type used around framing windows and door jams?

You can say that again! My wants far exceed my wallet right now. I already have the LC6i, which is only getting used for the sub amp at the moment. I'll check out the RF for the future, thanks.

Pic of the current box, which is 18x34x13.5. Door panel with factory 3 ways: Trunk lid, which needs serious deadening. Do any of you recommend any foam/filler to put inside the voids of the trunk lid?

No, I will right now. Thanks! Edit: That may be a good option in the future. Am I understanding it's function correctly: The PAC modules take the car's display outputs and coverts them to a display on a aftermarket HU? I also see a module for keeping steering wheel controls, which I am a big fan of.

Activities Rock!! I too run off the factory Monsoon amp in my G6 using an AudioControl L6i. Works well for keeping the stock HU.

Would you mind snapping a pic of this? Our trunk openings must be different sizes.

I found that if I remove the back seats and the black trimming around the back seat that I will have just enough room to slide it in there with no problem. I just have to build it and put it through the back door and then slide it in. If not.. I have metal bending tools that I'll use to get it in. It was the same problem I had with my 95' buick. I just took an inch off of each side of the inner trunk and pushed it in the back. Worked like a charm, plus it's extra snug in the back. I will double check everything with the measuring tape when I install my alternator today and make sure, I did it all by eye from the back of the trunk. From what I see, if you remove the black trim, you gain an extra 2-3" of width. I also know about that dip that you are talking about. I put that in my equation when I measured. My box is going to be at the edge right before it dips down, else the box would've been 15" h instead of 14.5". But I shall give you accurate data once I'm done. Ok Great! Glad it fits I didnt think the opening from the passenger bay was that big. I'll look at mine tom.

I would strongly recommend you at least fab up a cardboard box before you spill out $$ for one that doesn't fit. No way I see 39" wide fitting. Roughly 37" is my max trunk opening width, which does not take into account the narrowing in the bottom corners. 14" was the highest my trunk would allow for the box to slide all the way forward. Please measure yours with a tape and let me know what you find.

We certainly dig it! Keep up the good work & keep them pics coming

Thanks for taking all the time to document your incredible work!! I have learned a lot already, and now see the extent it takes to create a top notch build. I see quiet a few similarities in my Pontiac G6 with your Malibau. What did you opt for a battery up front? Our battery space configs are identical.