dakotap

Ok, I just got in my Fi Q 15. I have it running 1000rms at 1 ohm on a Sundown 1500D on stock electrical. I am getting a bit of dimming. I have a run of 1/0 wire with a 1/0 battery to chassis ground. I am thinking of going pickup a Kinetik HC600 or HC800 and put it in the back since, I still have to hookup my JL 300/4 back there. Would this take a bit of strain of my front battery? I REALLY dont want to have to change my alt. Factory amperage on my Tacoma is 80 amp.

I was just in your same predicament. I ended up picking up a Pioneer 880 Prs, You can find a nice JL 300/4 for around $200 on ebay If you watch around. I picked up a pair of Mach 5 MLI's, and some SEAS Neo tweeters. Sounds great, still need to deaden the doors to bring up the midbass though. SEAS Neo tweets http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=1466 Great for the money.

I've got one 15 at 32hz in a pickup, no hairtricks for me. Chest shaker though. Deeeeeeep bass.

Ok, this is gonna probably be a stupid question. I just got my Fi Q 15, it's running in a 3.6cu ft box tuned to 32hz. I set my gains on my sundown 1500 to 31.6v with a 50hz test tone. I get alot of output on rap and bass tracks, but on music like Dave Matthews or John Mayer, or even Stone Temple Pilots, you really hear no bass and the sub is barely moving. I know I have a little air leak around the bottom of the gasket but I dont think that it would make a difference. I have the sub crossed at the deck at 63hz with a 18db slope. No bass boost at the amp. I really would like to know why I dont get much output. I'm happy with it on rap and bass tracks. I move my back wall and shake my windows on bass tracks, but not much output when It comes to Alternative and Rock.

Everything is around 50hz to 60hz and about 7-8db. I have a 60hz -3 db test tone I was thinking about using. Think that would make a difference? I used a 50hz.

Subsonic set around 30ish I'm running crappy Infinity Reference Coaxials till I order a new front stage next week. Mach 5 audio 6.5's with some SEAS Neo tweets will be goin in there off of a JL 300/4.

Thanks John, I went ahead and bought the HO alternator. I figure I may as well do it right and fix the root of the problem. My factory is 70 amp according to AdvanceAuto, this ones 165. Should help alot! For $150 cant beat it I guess.

Happy Birthday!

Ok, question. Would you guys add the battery in the back, OR just go ahead and spend the $40 more and put this in there and no rear battery? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-...0072143556&

I'm not as much worried about the lights as is now, but I am worried it's gonna get alot worse when I put the JL 300/4 in there...

So do you think that the HC 800 would solve some of my voltage problems? Newegg has some open box for $100 shipped. Only $50 more than the amp kit to power the JL im putting. I'll just hook the two amps off the battery and only need a short run of 4ga for the JL. Would you guys even consider open box? It's about $40 cheaper.

I was looking at the second listing you posted and I just didnt know how the quality was. It's not a bad price though. I would probably pay that if It did 165amp like it says.

It is a 1999 Toyota Tacoma V6 5-Speed without ABS and no power doors. I know I hit a good note in a song and my Voltmeter on my Premier 880 showed like 12.6v down from 13.7-13.8v

80 amp. Edited above.

Ok, so I've been reserching and I may go with the SEAS Neo Textile dome tweeters, flush mount in the kicks. Mids are questionable. Thinking of giving the Mach 5's a try. Or maybe some Vifa P17WJ-00, or possible some Aurum Cantus AC-165's still up in the air on that though. Probably the Mach 5's though. I like the idea of 4 ohm.

Ok, I'm redoing my system in my truck. I have a 15" Fi Q going in a 32hz 3.6cu box. I have a JL Audio 300/4 I picked up for cheap that will be here soon. I plan on picking up a Premier 880 or 800 in the next few weeks. I currently have 2way Infinity Reference speakers in there off HU power. I want a component setup that would sound great active or passive for around $200. I've never done active and I think that I may give it a shot. What are some good sets for the money? They are going in the factory door location. No kick pods. I was looking at the CDT CL-62 with the upgraded 1" titanium tweeter, and also Focal's Access 165. Any help would be great.

You are thinking of something else. This is a quote I found from Fi. The BP option option adds a machined aluminum compression plug to the pole which helps channel all of the air under the dustcap around the coil for better cooling. To aid with this increased airflow we also add 6 axial cooling channels in the top plate. Along with increased thermal capacity comes the addition of an extra spider and a changed spider pack for a little extra mechanical ability. All of these new features increase power handling from 200-500 Watts depending on the application. There is a little spec change on the drivers as we are adding a little more suspension stiffness (although we are swapping stiff spiders out for more soft ones too). The subs stay a little closer to their original suspension values and have a slightly increased qts, fs, and reduced vas. Not too much of an issue and I have found it to be beneficial in mst bassrace setups. Now this is not something for everyone and I dont think that most people need to add it. But we are getting more and more bassrace applications where being able to stack more power to ge the sub to its linear limits for a specific application requires more than the rated RMS power (often quite a bit more) and this option allows you to push things a little harder for some applications. If you are looking for a SQ setup or just a clean daily setup within the normal limits of the subs... then there is no point. Would I recommend it to someone with 1200W in a daily driver? I doubt it as it really wouldnt be needed and the extra 200W really isnt an issue. Its the guys that are trying to stack on 1800W and push them as hard as possible for 30 seconds (or try to all day) while voltage starts to drop and things start to get ugly towards the end.

I haven't ordered the sub yet. Is the BP option needed? Or is it just a luxury? It's a metallic plug that allows for better venting to the cone of the woofer to allow more power handling. If you want to put more than about 1200rms I would get the BP option. It would allow you to run a 1500 on it. I honestly don't see the need. 1000rms or so will be plenty to get loud and sound good.

Well, I picked up a Premier 880 on the DIY forums. I was reading some good things about the Mach 5 Audio MLI 65's anybody here run them or heard them? I like the Seas CA18 but it's a 7". I have a 6.5" opening and I dont really want to cut any out of that. Plus the fact that they are 8 ohm turns me off of them a bit.

Good choice. I have the 1500. I'm going to run the gains conservatively on the same speaker you have. I got too good a deal to not get it lol. So far, I have loved my Sundown. Never skips a beat runs cool. I think you'll like it.

Can you recommend an amp you would use if you had the set up i listed above? I still have a lil time to tweak the set-up. Sundown 1000 or 1500. The 1500 is on sale for this month. The 1000 is just a great value to begin with.

Our home depot only has 3/4". It's about $22 a sheet.

Home from work bump. Might go measure my mounting depth.

I have a 6.5 to 6.75" factory opening. I know that I have some Infinity 6022's in there now with a 2 1/16" mounting depth and I dont have alot of room behind the speaker because of my window frame. I think I have alot of room in front of the speaker to put a 3/4" mdf spacer ring to get the additional clearance I would need though. Metra says my door is 3" but there is no way. I think I could clear a little over 2 1/2. MAYBE 2 3/4 with spacer plate.

Ok, I have a Fi Q 15 on the way thats getting ran off of about 1000-1200 watts from a Sundown 1500. I currently have a Pioneer 4900iB and the display has been kinda getting funky and the knob is starting to stick a little. I bought it with all my stuff when I was doing my first system, and now I want to upgrade. It's currently running some Infinity Reference 6.5 coax's off headunit power. I know that it probably wont be able to keep up with the 15 at high volumes. I was really thinking of getting a Premier 880prs or the copper plated 800prs. I dont know if I want to run active at the moment. I will be upgrading to some components soon. I think if I go passive I'll pick up a used JL 300/2 and if active than maybe a 300/4. Any good recommendations for a HU?