Duran

You are going to put a Q in a prefab box and expect SQ?

Aftermarket is better than Bose. You need to find a different place, cause that spot is made EXACTLY for that Bose sub.

Mahogany(Spelling?) is a really good wood, followed my Trupan Light, then by MDF.

You know what they say about guys who say they are "big"...

It will not let me edit. Can you moderate it too and I'll fix it tomorrow. Thanks M5 Hes not a moderator...

It reduces port noise. I believe he charges $20 extra, but I can't remember exactly.

I'm diggin' the Focal subs...Good luck with 159.9 + SQ!

Apples and oranges buddy.

That thing could eat you alive!

Holy heavy backpack Batman!

Frequency???

thats why i was real careful and used the word IF in that last post. Ehhh. It is almost guaranteed to have problem with cone flex, just as bad as square cones.

It's my name, I'm not really big on making up display names...

I looks like the Boston SPG 555, but not nearly as good http://mobile.bostonacoustics.com/car/car_...;product_id=373

Why wouldn't it run the 6.5's well? It will be fine. I just think it would be too much for them. If you mean 12 gauge going to the sub then yes. If you mean 12 gauge power wire...ROFL

Okay guys, I hear you all talk about active and passive front stages all the time, but I don't know the difference between the two. I am tired of not knowing and finally worked up the courage to ask. I hope I'm not made fun of or anything for it!

Oh its okay, we are here to help! With the ZX350.4 it is 90 WRMS per channel at 2 ohms. It will run the 6x9's well, but probibaly not the 6 1/2's.

A passive setup uses fixed crossovers that are at speaker-level (i.e., after the amplifier but before the speakers). Other than adjustable tweeter attenuation, they usually are fixed at a certain crossover point and slope, at least without modification. "Active" implies some sort of electronic crossover that's placed before (or in some cases, built into) the amplifiers. This way, you're only limited by the processor itself, you can change points and slopes to whatever you'd want. This is advantageous in a vehicle because you might not know exactly what crossover point or slope will work best for your install - you could get extraordinarily lucky with a passive setup that's somehow set up correctly, but you'd probably have better odds playing the lottery For an active setup, you need as many amplifier channels as speaker drivers you're powering. That means, for a 2-way setup (midbass & tweeter per side), you need 4 channels of amplification. For a 3-way setup (midbass, midrange & tweet), you'd need 6. Thank you so much for the help! But does the quality on the passive crossover matter? I just put in Kicker SS Components, and I know that they cost so much because of the high quality crossovers, does it really matter? For in-car use, I would put flexibility over ultimate quality in the parts used. I think foil inductors and high quality caps are great, yeah, but if the Xover point/slope is wrong for your install, even the best quality components are going to sound like crap. Save those really high-quality crossovers for the home, where things are much less demanding I want to upgrade my Kicker KX350.4 to a Sundown SAX 100.4, would the crossovers on that count as Active? From what I hear the crossovers on that are really good...

HAHA, I was just making sure you weren't going to do that! What do you mean in your question though?

Huh? You are going to run subs off your HU?

each channel will put out a certain RMS power at a certain ohm load. The Sundown amp I recommended is 100 WRMS x 4 channels at 4 ohms. I believe it is 160 WRMS at 2 ohms per channel. You don't have to get a 4 channel, but it will make life easier for you.

If you get aftermarket speakers you SHOULD get a 4 channel amp to power them, you don't have to though. It will probably sound like if you run it off the deck too! Sundown 100.4's are great, but out of stock right now.

A passive setup uses fixed crossovers that are at speaker-level (i.e., after the amplifier but before the speakers). Other than adjustable tweeter attenuation, they usually are fixed at a certain crossover point and slope, at least without modification. "Active" implies some sort of electronic crossover that's placed before (or in some cases, built into) the amplifiers. This way, you're only limited by the processor itself, you can change points and slopes to whatever you'd want. This is advantageous in a vehicle because you might not know exactly what crossover point or slope will work best for your install - you could get extraordinarily lucky with a passive setup that's somehow set up correctly, but you'd probably have better odds playing the lottery For an active setup, you need as many amplifier channels as speaker drivers you're powering. That means, for a 2-way setup (midbass & tweeter per side), you need 4 channels of amplification. For a 3-way setup (midbass, midrange & tweet), you'd need 6. Thank you so much for the help! But does the quality on the passive crossover matter? I just put in Kicker SS Components, and I know that they cost so much because of the high quality crossovers, does it really matter?

HAHA, a Q and a BL will sound better than an L7. And have more output.