Duran

Haha no I'm just messing around

im in my "mech" school right now....we are learning about the combustion section and various other sections of jet engines..and i can tell u that a sub is in no way related to a combustion chamber....its just marketing and btw, a box made of .75in mdf thats braced well will be stronger than a box made with 2 layers of .75in mdf thats not braced How is there not combustion? Combustion doesn't always mean fire. It may not be combustion exactly, but compression?

Those words are NOT to be used together. there r a lot of subs that have good SOUND QUALITY ...when turned down ...but when u crank them up they get LOUD As in all subs? There is a difference in terms. You are talking about normal, subs you see everyday.

Those words are NOT to be used together.

We will not do so. This leaves us even more open to assembly errors on the part of the end user. We will offer re-cones on our own woofers, of course. Awww, never mind my PM then Jake.

Now I'm going to bed. Later guys.

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My 10" was definitely louder than that

Howdy HoP. I have a fun little project that want to do. Years ago I bought one of these and it was fun, I very good, hard hitting little sub. I took it out of my car one day, set it on the ground a bit too rough and I hear a loud "clank" come fro it. I push on the cone, and it wont move. I wiggle the box a little bit and I hear another "clank", I push on the cone and it moves now, but it feels weird. I take it out and the motor is just sitting at the bottom of the box. It sheered right off. Well I dissected it and it has sat in my room ever since. Now I want to rebuild it It is a pretty good and strong motor and basket; I want to have another toy to play with and break Can someone help me? The stock coil is ~2 5/8" and the spider is ~6.5". Can anyone give me advice to go about fixing my toy?

That means virtually nothing. The Rockford Fosgate T15K is CEA compliant

The W7 is a sorry woofer, not that it's bad but it's overated and overpriced.

external regulator? I don't currently have a H.O. alternator

he wont blow the Q. that amp is perfect for it. 1200-1500 watts is just right with the BP option that he's getting. BP option add 200-500 rms. so that makes the Q 1200-1500 rms. get the Q. My friend there is much more than just watts that breaks speakers, its idiots with volume knobs. He will most likely blow the Q, that is whey we recommend the BL as it will take the power better, and sound just as good as the Q considering his musical preferences.

Found this on powermasters website. Says it will charge 16v batts. powermaster Those aren't for daily drivers. Output is basically zero at idle.

Any in just a large?

Where can I get a 16 volt alternator?

I think Scott from Fi says its supposed to be 20x VAS

I'm having trouble deciding between two things. 1. Which place to get them, I could get them from DDM Tuning, Future vision HID, or a local shop out here that will install them for $200. 2. What power to get i'm torn between 4300k and 6k http://www.ddmtuning.com/products/DDM_35W_...Kit-101-85.html http://www.futurevisionhid.com/xp-9004-hb1...-kit-p-159.html Talk to TRP, I believe he owns or works for Tripple R Performance, I spoke with him about HID's quite a bit. He is very knowledgeable and can get you very good prices. http://triplerperformance.net/shop/

I have my forum set up differently so I have a different TOP than everyone else... So view it normally? And find me someone who knows about HID's Get over on the Classifiedzz forums (Also ran by Mark) and talk to TRP. I know he sells HID's, so he probably knows a thing or two about them. He is a member on here aswell

I'm just waiting for Godsmack to say something about his sub choice. Well you two probably don't like my sub choice then

Haha you two are hilarious...nevermind fight! It's comical and I'm bored

This is the House of Peace for christ's sake!

Guys guys...no violence in the Hop!

Second Skin Damplifier Pro