Duran

It's $20 Sean.

Another pair of tweeters is not a good idea, especially off of deck power.

It happens. I blew the dust cap off of one of my Nightshades too.

that mite be the problem i read and only had luck with boxes suggest in the plus or mins 20% of factory specs and that is a little over by about the 20% plus a .25 cuft that could be what is causing it and would not rule out that is it. that box should be about 6.9 cuft plus or minus 1.38cuft some were in there but not a quarter cube over the 20 % this will effect sound output Larger enclosures increase efficiency, that means louder.

They're wired right, meter is saying 1.2 ohms at the amp. Can you take one out and check? Cause you just measured DC resistance. resistance should be the same in ac or dc shouldnt it? DC resistance is normally lower than impedance. I think they are wired at 2 ohms.

both my rockfords do =) He has a 3000BD who has a 3000bd? B7L BL4Z3R

both my rockfords do =) He has a 3000BD

Never mind it was on the last page Can people just not see my post or what?

They're wired right, meter is saying 1.2 ohms at the amp. Can you take one out and check? Cause you just measured DC resistance.

Jacob you deleted my post that reveled what it was! I thought we were supposed to guess?

You can...it's easier to put it in a vise or press though.

That specific one is the Brute hammer crimping tool

Most people will just hit it with a sledgehammer, but a vise works MUCH better.

Haha it's all good

Exactly

Solder alone isn't a good conductor, you need to crimp in first, then if you think it needs it you can solder it.

There shouldn't even be a bass boost on the amp itself, all you need is gain and crossover settings. Bass boost is the easiest way to clip your equipment. If you know how to set up your equipment then by all means use the bass boost, just remember that most bass boost is centered at 45 Hz. which is close to where most people set their lo-pass filters so they normally bypass the bass boost.

I wanted to be cool like Mark...So I googled myself after I read this thread. Nothing

Most of the time it controls bass boost, some remote control both and have two knobs. I hope you know bass boost is a no-no, that's why I said you should put it away and takeiteasy...haha that was funny

Okay take that little remote and the wire, put them in the package it came in and hide it. That's the best thing you can do

Crimp it, then solder. Oh and you should try a torch, a soldering gun can't heat up the whole terminal.

Just run one amp to both, your gonna be looking for new subs soon if you don't.

10's wont cut it. I had them, ditched them for 12's about 4 or 5 years ago. I used to run 15's exclusively, so it's already a tough sell with measly 12's, lol I can add a LITTLE more air space... but not much. If you've ever seen the trunk of a GTO, you'll understand. Why didn't your 10's work? What were they? What was their enclosure? What was the amp? Same model as my current 12's, in boxes about the same size, and the amp was my 10.0 They just didn't hit as low or loud as I wanted. That's because your using new Eclipse stuff, Fi is a whole other league. The motor and coil are EXACTLY the same on sizes 10"-18", the only thing that changes is the cone and suspension. Larger subs getting "lower" is a misconception, it really depends on the enclosure. 8's play the same notes as 18's, the only difference is volume.

10's wont cut it. I had them, ditched them for 12's about 4 or 5 years ago. I used to run 15's exclusively, so it's already a tough sell with measly 12's, lol I can add a LITTLE more air space... but not much. If you've ever seen the trunk of a GTO, you'll understand. Why didn't your 10's work? What were they? What was their enclosure? What was the amp?

Coil wobble from having 4 times the recommended port area would cause the coil to unwind, and sending it more power than is recommended would burn it.