Duran

I think it'll be sweet actually, just make sure you brace the hell out of it.

I thought if you half the ohm load you'll gain about 3/4s of what you were already getting? ex 1500+(1500*3/4)=2625 You forgot to factor in the huge loss of efficiency suffered when you drop to .5 ohm.

That was my sister

I'd chose the XCON of BL if it were me, remember they are designed for two different things though. The BL is designed more for output where the XCON is designed for flat response.

Port area is right on the money actually

It will be pushed up against the back of the trunk against the back seat with the sub and port firing back to the rear. There should be around 15" in front of the enclosure (give or take an inch or two). I was thinking of a box like this...... This was modeled for an SSA XCON 12D2. Now if I figured this correctly. It will be tuned somewhere between 30Hz and 35Hz. I don't quite know for sure how to account for the angled corners and such. But It should be somewhere between 1.75ft³ and 1.85ft³ net around the sub. And a total of about 3.4ft³ gross. I added 1.5" dowels to compensate for not having a double baffle on the front and allowing for an increased internal volume. Granted it's not much of an increase. This is along the same lines as the XCON small enclosure provided in the enclosure section. But this has a larger port, an inch taller and an inch narrower. Were you get a box design like that Can u plz find me one for fi btl 15 Make your own thread and your question will be answered shortly

That enclosure looks very good actually, I'd build it

More than likely it will be louder.

Sell ToP!

Haha that's a good way to sell

Welcome back

Re-glue it on

What is the price currently? What is MSRP? I couldn't find any prices or breakdowns on ordering on the site.

How do you plan to orient it in the trunk? I would do the enclosure that will allow the most airspace around then enclosure, it's really a toss up as I've never done and testing in a Cavalier to see which enclosures worked best, you could always buy a pair of woofers, build a dual sealed and a single vented and decide which you like best.

I cut one up and checked out the soft parts and coils, they are overbuilt little sups. That's an enclosure dependent question, but it is pushing the power handling a bit.

The easiest way to decide which enclosure is best for you is to look at what you want, sealed enclosure will have a more flat response with low end extension below 25 Hz. and a ported enclosure will have more volume from 25 Hz and up, while still retaining the same sound quality in my opinion. While the 12-16 sq. in. of port area is a good rule to follow it can be wrong it's best to calculate the minimum port area for your woofer choice. I can assist you if you want. Choose the woofers that would be in an optimal enclosure, meaning you decide to get one woofer in a ported enclosure, but are limited by space and it's in the smallest recommended enclosure, dual sealed woofers in a larger sealed enclosure would probably be louder and outperform the ported setup. Woofer choice is actually simple, choose the woofers that fit your budget and will perform the best in the enclosure you can fit. Sorry about the long replies my mind is everywhere today

I have no experience with Memphis amps actually, I've never heard bad things though.

The biggest issue when a driver cannot play the frequencies being amplified is the enclosure, of all the woofers you listed they will all play the same notes, just at different volumes but that depends on a lot of variables like the enclosure, amplification, vehicle, etc. they will all have slightly different "sounds" because of different T/S parameters, for the enclosure it's best to stick to the manufacturers recommendations. There are rules of thumb to stick with most of the time, or formulas to calculate the exact port area and port length you need for the woofer and enclosure you'll be using. A lot of people can assist you with the enclosure or even build it for you if you don't want to. I'd be happy to help you. Generally a woofer will mechanically fail when pushed beyond it's limits, or in an improper enclosure, or both. Also, if you plan on buying a prefabricated enclosure only buy a sealed one, if you want a vented make sure it is built to the woofers specifications.

This was an XCON? Take some pictures and PM them to denim and he'll help you out.

That's correct, they are gold/brownish colored. A burnt coil is dark brown/black and has a distinctive smell. Test the resistance of each coil at the terminals, there could be a short in the tinsel leads under the dust cap, that can cause the dustcap to melt.

Right

I'm sure he could find a way to shorten the port

Welcome to SSA I'd recommend reposting your question in a separate thread with your goals included, your question will be answered faster that way.

Actually, they pull one amp off the assembly line and test it (it's not a very accurate test in the first place) and print what that amp produced and put it on all the amps for that run, that means hundreds of amps got the same paper with them.