Duran

There wouldn't be a problem with a little glue separation there at all, I would run a bead of epoxy there to keep it from separating further.

Remember though, as you start increasing internal area mechanical failure becomes more likely, especially when doing SPL.

How bout a clearer picture so we can see where the rip is?

Foam it

Brass rods and bolts

Well said.

You get what you pay for...

Layers has a lot to do with it as well, but a normal 4" coil has MUCH more surface area than a normal 3" coil.

They aren't tacky, and perform very well if you build it right. Never buy a prefab like that though, you can make a better enclosure yourself.

The HCCA has a 4" coil, in the same application it can take quite a bit more power

True

Hey asshat! It's only $1749

Power Acoustik... Meh.

Put weight on the baffle!

Between 110 and 194 decibels.

It takes power to make power you know.

I'm never satisfied either

I've always used just clue, clamps, and and finishing nails to hold the panels till they dry. The glue holds the enclosure together not the screws and nails.

I did a 12" DCON install on 200 watts in a Mazda Protege5, it was VERY impressive. 12" DCON in Mazda Protege5 - SSA Car Audio Forum

I wanna text Aaron too, Mark never replies

ED isn't a good company though... Don't rant and rave about him not helping you. He tried

You don't need it, it's a myth in the car audio world.

Sounds like we work at the same place, on Sunday there was a complaint one of the Tier 1's made about the Tier 2's and our helpdesk manager, she was all pissed off because they were playing video games while she was reading her book She's still stuck in high school obviously

Th plug is machined into the motor, and cannot be removed. I'm not sure what it is?

There is more to it than thermal failure.