Duran

Well, your port should act as another woofer. Depending on the installation there can be delay or not, it could even go unnoticed, or it may only sound different when your vehicle is exactly 53 degrees F. Try it, find out, just make sure its removable.

Blue eyes here, I shoot with my dominant eye, other eye closed

I ask a question to get help and there are nothing but negative remarks, your moderators arent know it alls. Perhaps if there was a question asked we would have answered. Read the first post! You've changed your mind many times since then, we'd love to help, but you insist on not listening.

I ask a question to get help and there are nothing but negative remarks, your moderators arent know it alls. Perhaps if there was a question asked we would have answered.

Aaron hard at work!

Since he's the expert, I'll leave this thread.

You need to know the facts first -1 is what you would get for running your mouth. Umm, what? He stated EXACTLY what you need to do, if you choose not to listen it's your own damn fault. Read the paragraph in bold please.

Thank you Brad. I was stating that WinISD brings the drivers into a controlled area and is completely unbiased. In vehicle testing yields different results, of course, but if they are compared on the same plane, one driver can be found to be better suited in one specific installation vs. a different installation.

Being processed means it hasn't left Fi, its being built.

Good for what?

Some women never bleed, they can pop their cherry riding a bike when they're 8 years old.

The tracking number was sent to the email you entered at checkout automatically by UPS.

I see your point, but why not use smaller drivers and adequate internal area and vent area? Have you tried sealing it?

Ever think that the port area for SPL, and the port area for a daily scenario never change? What makes you think requirements change?

Lol, big volume low port area, that's called a leaky sealed box.

That is also not true in every case. its still a square wave. teach a noob the correct way instead of maybe having him throw twice or 3 times the powa on a sub and not know what he is doing. a good start would be that since you have a 4v pre-out from the headunit don't turn the gain up any more than 1/4 of the way up. set the headunit properly to achieve the best output. Square waves don't damage anything if input power is still below what the driver can thermal handle.

I'm up for that.

Electrodynamic is Nick Lemons. Nick, while the WinISD graphs aren't going to predict response in a real world scenario, it successfuly puts all woofers on the same plane, to be compared without bias.

That is also not true in every case.

The ONLY way to make a woofer fail thermally, is to overpower it.

Plasma's don't like to work well at our altitude Jared, IIRC. Agreed on the mountain driving too, I'd rather have a manual than an automatic, but all automatics now days have low gears, accomplishing the same thing

Mine is on at most 5 hours per day

He's asking about the 'Illumination" wire for his head unit. The lights of the HU should dim whenever you use your gauge dimming switch, if you have one.

Just *ahem* obtained an unmastered copy of "Red Hot Chili Peppers - Californication". It sounds perfect on the Grado's