Duran

You can pull a lot more than 60 amps through that fuse before it blows.

Eff that.

What is the output form the RE-Q?

Oh snap!

Damn Nicki Manaj as a booty

Looks like it is an 18" BL with a D1 flatwound coil and cooling machined into the motor.

Measure the preout voltage going to the RE-Q, and leaving the it and tell us your findings.

^^ We've got a freak on our hands

Talk to Nick, he should be able to make it with adjustable mass though.

Exactly.

I'd email Fi about making you a PR, they can do one for about $75 I believe. Tell them it's for an XCON 12" and they should do it for ya.

I see. So it was a myth all this time!. Something learned today! So what you are saying is that given the same test bed, same conditions and same power (let say 1000watts RMS) a 12" will hit a 30Hz note as good as an 18"? Yes, they will replicate the same frequencies, the difference is the one that moves the most air will be louder. Keep in mind they have to be the same woofer, say a 12" BTL vs. an 18" BTL. Yes the 18" will be louder, only because it's cone is larger and it displaces more air.

Drew.

is that worse or better than welding ones? CCA is aluminum wrapped around copper, which is less conductive. They have some wire that is all copper, which is just more expensive. i would suggest staying with the all copper. Other way around, it's is aluminum wire clad with copper, and CCA sucks. Not true, it makes a difference.

More easier, I think is the fuse rating im not sure though That works as well Like if you buy a flea market amp that says "10 Million Wattz" and has 1 20 amp fuse

Wiring flexibility.

Watts/Voltage = Amperage Don't forget efficiency as well

I leaned a new word today, "Ohmage"

Nope, big fat myth right there. The only difference is cone size, so there is more output, they all play the SAME notes. The XCON is designed to sound good, yes. The BTL and Mayhem are made to be loud, the BTL will do better numbers on a meter vs. the Mayhem but the Mayhem plays a bit lower, better for daily.

The XCON isn't in the same class as the SMD, BTL, or Havoc.

Was this from the stock harness or did you run new wires and it still didn't turn on? Throw a DMM on the power and switched to see if the HU is geiitng any power, if it is the HU is bad probably.

Is there a distribution block you can wire it too?

I have a friend in need of a new 4 channel. I'll have a word with him.