fritosaregood

i was thinking of eclipse before. or alpine, but I havent seen a place to get a H701(is that just the processor?) im looking to get way from pioneer because of the pico fuse problem

It has crossovers built in that will cover the required frequency range of your drivers. Normally it would also include t/a and appropriate eq for each channel to make it sound good. t/a? time adjustment? Do you have a name of a hu that i could use? Would an external crossover between the hu and amp work?

I thought i said it earlier, but the amp is an alpine pdx 5 channel. What makes the hu capable of doing active?

Keep up really depends completely on your definition. What do you have for processing? I just want to be able to hear it. Processing, is just the radio (premier 590), which ill be gettin a different one cuz the front channel are messed up on it, and the controls on the amp. Currently with your setup you CANNOT run the goldwoods or the Daytons. You need crossovers kid. No wonder it sounds like ass. If you are going to run DIY drivers you need active crossovers. If this is truly the route you are going to run please buy a headunit that can handle this and do some background reading and searching on active crossovers BEFORE buying anything else.s Ive done some reading, thats why Im trying to redo everything. but right now its doesnt sound terribly bad, i just want it better. Isnt the crossover on the amp good enough? Would passive crossovers work for just doin a 2 way? I'm goin more toward active now though Cant that headunit handle goin active, or are you sayin i just need to get one with a working front channel.

speaker gasket tape, foam tape

Keep up really depends completely on your definition. What do you have for processing? I just want to be able to hear it. Processing, is just the radio (premier 590), which ill be gettin a different one cuz the front channel are messed up on it, and the controls on the amp.

i stopped using them a few years ago, but now im wanting to put some back in for my next system redo

Ok, so now if i keep the daytons, and add a tweeter for a two way setup, and get rid of the goldwoods. Ill have two speakers and two tweeters 100rms each. would that be able to keep up with a 6000rms sub stage?

ok i read up some stuff on the phase plugs, but it looks like some ppl say the "shiney bullet" is a "silly" little phase plug.

That goes back to my original question of sealed or IB, if i did sealed it would be a different enclosure. What is a phase plug?

So is that not a tweeter on the daytons? Im leaning towards 3 way so i can have somethin better for midbass maybe an E8. would it be alright to have an E8 for midbass and just a tweeter. I can measure the enclosure tomorrow.

Should I use the daytons as my midbass or midrange. Is frequency range was i think 70 - 2200hz. Do you know if that range is for the tweeter too? Should I use a separate tweeter? As for the goldwoods, that was never the intended spot for them, but before that i had four 4 inch ports in the rear deck for the subs. Then i changed my setup and saw that the goldwoods fit the wholes perfect so i sealed up the piece that holds those drivers too. Its very noticable that most of the sound is coming from behind. The enclosure:

M5 around tonight for some help? Or anyone else?

I am also lacking good midbass. As for the daytons: The alpine amp has a 105rms rating but i have the gain turned down since the daytons are only rated at 60rms. I have them set on high pass, not sure of the exact setting since its just a knob, currently installed in a sealed fiberglass enclosure that is fiberglassed to a door panel. Amp is an alpine pdx 5 channel. Wiring is 16gauge run from the amp to the stock wire(18 gauge or lower) that is suppose to plug into the factory radio, then goes to speakers. I planned on running 14 gauge throughout the car when i start this build and eliminate the stock wire. the goldwoods are 14 or 16 gauge from amp to speaker. The goldwoods are just over all louder 4 of them compared to 2 daytons and more power too. The daytons do do better on the higher notes that i do have though. positioning could also be a problem with the dayton. pic of the door panel:

I like them but they are easily overpowered by the goldwoods. I am missing my higher frequency range. I bought a boss super tweeter(cuz it was big and shiney) about 3 years ago and it made me not want tweeter cuz it hurt, and not a good hurt like you get from subs. but now im missing the higher ranges in music. Im gettin back into alot of my techno and classical music. here are the tweeters ive been looking at: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl....084&scqty=2 and http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=277-086

it is a pro audio driver. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=264-424 as for processing i am probably goin to have a passive setup with this crossover: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl....144&scqty=2 for the tweeter and midrange, and have midbass on a different channel. or use the 3 way version of the crossover: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=260-150 the amp im using is a alpine 5 channel Regrettably, you need to start over completely. You really, really, really shouldn't run passives for a 3 way. You really can't use an off the shelf passive with that driver or pretty much 95% of drivers. That isn't a mid that belongs anywhere near a car...and will most definitely sound like complete ass with that crossover. My guess is you think you want to be as loud as possible for as little money as possible, but if that is truly your goal you should ask for help in with the complete system and not just on adding a driver, unless you don't care what it sounds like and just truly want loud only. My ears are bleeding just thinking about it. With the amp I have i could run 3 way active, front, rear, and sub channel, but i figured it would be a better use of power to do passive. that is why i kind of split between the two for a 2way crossover for tweeter and midrange and a separate channel for midbass. What makes that driver car non-friendly? I am wanting it to be loud, so it will work with 2 15's with 2 saz3000s. I also want it to sound good. that is why i am trying(not well apparently) to do components to piece it together. This is what i have in the doors now: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=295-374 and 4 of these in the rear deck: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=290-309 Those have great output, and sound nice to me. but i want to actually try and make a good frontstage now.

it is a pro audio driver. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=264-424 as for processing i am probably goin to have a passive setup with this crossover: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl....144&scqty=2 for the tweeter and midrange, and have midbass on a different channel. or use the 3 way version of the crossover: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=260-150 the amp im using is a alpine 5 channel

so just a tweeter and midbass will sound good? or do i just need a smaller midrange

wow thats a very biased statement....beng that im not on team kinetik or xs power and having used both batts maybe i can give an unbiased opinion...with a little common sense u can see that the 2400 has more AH and the 3100 has more dead short amps...in other words the 2400 will be slightly better than a 3100 for daily pounding...but probally not noticable...and being that 2400s can be found dirt cheap used all over the net id go with some used 2400's... The higher AH led me to the kinetiks, and i was thinkin of buying some from someone yesterday, but i saw alot of ppl sayin how a powermaster is better than a 2400. also does anyone know about black kinetik batteries, all ive seen is blue, but the batteries the guy is selling are black. He said he got them from sonicelectronics, but i got some 1800s from there and theyre blue.

I think that price tag is what made me look past then a while ago.

there was another woofer I was lookin at with a lower frequency range, and possibly using an E8. The only reason for rear doors is space. Im using an 8in selenium for midrange too, so them both may not fit and still have room. i usually have my leg leaned over on the door when i drive and if i move it farther back on the door it get very close to the seat. but i can play around with the woofer positions again and see wat i can do.

Im thinking about these dayton 10's: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl....110&scqty=2 midrange is going to be sealed. then tweeter 10's are goin in the rear door, midrange and tweeter in the front. powered by and alpine pdx 5 Subs are two audiopulse axis 15's with two saz 3000s

better for a daily driver with 2 saz 3000s, its in a honda accord trunk too. how would 1 batcap 8400 compare to 2 of either of those other batteries

Anybody have pictures now?

ok. ill probably start off with it passive. maybe eventually go active if it doesnt satisfy me enough