fritosaregood

Thats what i use it for mostly, it can also find the t/s parameters. It plugs in to the usb port of your computer.(after you calibrate it with the provided resistor) You just connect it to the pos and neg speaker wires with the gator clips. then hit impedence sweep.

If you don't mind me asking, how did you measure your impedence rise? I'm kind of interested to see where mine is at. Hold a DMM to the leads at the amp and play something. That way didnt work for me. I think its only dc resistance that does like that, I did it two ways, first i use a WT3 woofer tester to get an impedence plot showin were it rises to at each frequency. about 100buck. then i used a DMM to measure AC voltage and a clamp meter to find current from 20hz to 70hz, Then i put that in and excel spreadsheet, both ways were very close, my lowest actual rise after 18hz was really 1.097something. I prefer the WT3 tester, it can test from 1 to 20000hz ,but since it a sub i really only look up to 100hz, in about a second. where as the other way took a while. when i had to get readings, write them, do the math, I let excel do the math for me though

here is a good site with lots of stuff http://www.ronelmm.com/tones/

Well since impendence rise never goes below 1.1 ohms, in actuality it should perform fine at that load; shouldn't it? Thats right. Thats why I noted what my impedence rise was. but most ppl look at non reactive loads. which is the .5 in this case.

Update: I decide to do another test, but this time with roughly half the power. Before i started the temp of the amp was 74 F I played music for 19 mins. The tempurature this time was 77.5 F on the power terminal side, and 84.8 F on the RCA side. Pretty much the same as the fult tilt test. So further conclusions are these temps seem to me regular operating temps at this low ohm.

If i had another, and two more subs. haha I use to have two 1800s in the trunk and one autozone battery under the hood. but now i have 2 2400s in my garage waitin so i went ahead and put one 1800 up front. my voltage stays up unless i have it full tilt at idle. For output, i would say it shakes everything more, my car has got some flex back. The lows are nice but compared to my last ported box tuned real low its not as good. But if i had more than 2 cube each it would could get better.

parts express used to have some flashing 12V lights http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...FTOKEN=26967993 its sold out now though. radioshack might have some when you find one hook it to one of these relays http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=330-070 then get this thing for free http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...FTOKEN=26967993 It shows different ways of wiring a relay. there is even one called "fake alarm" in the book

200 amp alt. 2 kinetik 1800s(one under the hood, one in the trunk), 0 gauge everywhere

Does the side get really hot or just warm? I measured it with a temp gun and the side that gets warm is only gettin 5 to 7 degrees warmer than the other side. with the other side staying the same temp as before i started playin music How long were you playing before you took the temp gun to the amp? Also How long have you been running the amp at 1/2 Ohm? 10 mins at fult tilt music raised it 5 degrees. 25mins (first turned up half way. then the last 15 mins fult tilt music) raised 7 degrees. Its been about a week so far with it at 1/2 ohm with rise to 1.1 ohm

Does the side get really hot or just warm? I measured it with a temp gun and the side that gets warm is only gettin 5 to 7 degrees warmer than the other side. with the other side staying the same temp as before i started playin music

I have had single audiopulse axis dual 2 ohm sub wired to my sundown 3000 at 1 ohm. I was going to get a second sundown for my second axis. but recently testing the power and impedence rise charts with my wt3 woofer tester, i found that my impedence rise is going up to 3 with the single axis. so ive only gotten about 2000watts with lots of clipping. After i noticed that i put both axis's in a sealed box with them wired down to .5 ohms. i clamped it today and took an impedence curve and its raising to about 1.1 ohms now. i got about 2300 watts before my voltage dropped too low where i didnt want go continue, and no one was here to rev the engine. So this brings my question. Should i just wire them to .5 ohms on one amp. or strap two amps together with a two ohm load? is there a way to keep my impedence rise lower? also will the whole amp get hot when it heats up? after driving home from class about 25 mins, the side of the amp where the rcas plug in was hot. It was sunny out today finally so it may be that the sun was shining through my back seat and just hitting the amp in that spot. it was sittin in a parkin lot for about 4 hours.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=2690 No need for very expensive equipment to test things There is are cheaper ways, but usually everyone wants quick results. My WT3 can get impedence rise from 1hz to 20000hz in about 1 second, and it was only 100 bucks. Not to expensive considering how much other stereo equipment is. I may use the clamp meter/DMM method and check the accuracy out of the clamp meters freq range

I use a WT3 woofer tester from partsexpress for impedence curves. you can do it for the driver free air and with the drive in the box. Clamping for ac current my not be accurate, most ac clamp meters ive seen are only rated between 50-60hz

i've had mine down to .5 ohms for a few days now, with rise to 1.1, the only possible problem ive had so far is the side of the amp where the rcas are gets warm now.

What about the bigger version of that amp. the 6k one.. you should do that one.

i did have the box with the axis in it on a bash 500 amp and it shook everything, right now i have a dayton hf 15 in it. I want to try a horn loaded, but can get the design part down. The box i have now was my thought of how a tapped horn box was, but it didnt taper down. The port exits across the sub

the box tuning was accidental, but i love this box. half the time i just play bass stuff anyway and it does great on lows. for the 2 ported boxes ill be tunin at 30~33 I have to 22hz box in my room now for the HT

its just that how i see it ill only be gettin 3000rms either way. with both on one amp with impedence rise to 1.1 i get 3k. but with 2 amps strapped and a 2 ohm load with rise around 6 ,i can remember exactly what my rise was, id still be at 3k. Will this really happen? right now i have a 4 cube internal with dual chambers sealed enclosure. before was a 2 cube ported box with a looooong port. tuned to 22hz

my single sub sayed above 3 most of the time too. Ive got a single ported enclosure for them, but wanted to try sealed for a bit. ill be going with both ported this summer. its just hard to fit it in my trunk. the minimal sealed enclosure is at tight fit already. And ive got the electrical back up, 200 amp alt and 2 kinetik1800s, and 2 2400s in my garage waitin for the second amp. I really wanted to get 6000rms from my next setup. but it looks like i need dual 1 ohm subs for it to happen.

it was done on a 55 hz tone, but i have a WT3 woofer tester and my impedecne for a single axis at 1 ohm raised to 3 almost the hole time with a jump to 8 or 10 at 40 hz

I have enough, it was dropping to 12.5 and i just wanted to test at a higher voltage.

no log for this one, just a few pics at the end

I have an audiopulse axis 15 and a saz3000. I finally got my non-blown sub in the box and in the car. I was tunin it all and saw my hair movin it the window, so i got my gf to come over for a try at a hair trick. enjoy

tuned to 22hz, does a 140.1 at 25hz, peaks at 144.4 at 41hz(but you dont care about that one haha) the sub i had it was an audiopulse axis. this box was good enough for a decent hairtrick. if i could build it again i would make the the volume bigger. its only 2 cube now. edit: the hairtrick http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...723#entry495982 edit x2: 15" sub

wire it in series or parrallel? which will work better parallel will blow quicker in a wall outlet. by maybe half a second for factory speakers. but factory speakers arent dual coils. so just do one at a time