fritosaregood

amps are grounded straight to the battery in the trunk which then grounded to the frame. power is the right side of the car. RCA's are right down the middle. My RCAs are about 5 ft too long so that extra bit is bunched up.(is that bad?) how do i ground the RCA's S-Curve the RCA's from the front to back so they do not cross themselves at any point. Yes, bunching up RCA's can cause trouble. You can also run some shorter cables. The RCA shield on the head unit is the outer part of the RCA plug. Ground the RCA shield by wrapping a small wire around the shield and then ground the other end to a screw on the HU. Do this with all of the RCA inputs on the back of the deck. i did have shorter fosgate RCA's but after i ripped one i went to get some from walmart cuz i didnt want to drive up to best buy. all walmart had was 25ft RCA wires. but im gonna got get new ones tomorrow from a stereo shop. and if that doesnt solve some problems ill ground them too. i think i might have to run them a separate way too. cuz right now the power is run down the left and RCAs down the middle. and the alpine amp has the power wire connection on the right and the RCAs on the left so they cross each other now. so i have to move things around too.

how do i do that

im workin on the battery part.. its held down at the base of it and has never moved till now. as for the RCA's, i just had to replace two sets before because i had pulled to hard when they got stuck and broke the right channels of them

amps are grounded straight to the battery in the trunk which then grounded to the frame. power is the right side of the car. RCA's are right down the middle. My RCAs are about 5 ft too long so that extra bit is bunched up.(is that bad?) how do i ground the RCA's, and yea i have disconnected the RCA's with the radio on. but that was after i had the whine noise a while ago. i was doin it to see which channels were makin noise

no but just think about it. wat does the volume knob do. it increases the pre amp output voltage, that goes to the amp that makes the sound. 0 volume = no sound = no output voltage, but even it there was .01 volts coming out its not somethin that would make a thump this loud

not really. there is no voltage comin out of the radio in each case

its all stripped out now. but even with the volume at zero it still pops

at first i thought i blew up the sub with the battery.. but the DC power never touched the sub wires. it was only the negative post and that just shorted the pos and neg speaker wired bolts. it still plays normal, the amp still puts out all the power. but once i turn the amp off it makes the same thump/pop sound it made when the battery hit the speaker wire bolts

ok.. this will be my sixth + pair..haha. ive take everythin out now all the rca's look find at the amps i havent checked behind the radio. that were my noise suppressor is too im goin to check that part tomorrow. and for the sundown amp everythin on the outside appears the same. no burn marks on the remote turn on input. do you know if it would be easy to take off the cover and look inside for anythin thats wrong? or would that void a warranty.. if this situation is even cover on the warranty

im about to start takin it all apart, how would i tell if the RCA's are bad from the looks?

you know if thats fixable?

are you sayin i might of messed my head unit up? and it that wat is causing the loud thump from the sundown or the whining from the alpine Its a Premier 590 head unit.

i hope its just the ground.. it was the neg side of the battery that touched the pos and neg speaker wires.. ill be takin it all out tomorrow to find out for sure

Sounds like a marketing term for some kind of horn, which is not a T-line. here is the site.. it seems to use alot of the principles of a T-line.. or i could be wrong http://www.cowanaudio.com/th.html

wat i have done before is take of the steering column cover and find the ignition wire in i used a fork spade connecter with one of the forks cut of and wedged it into the back of the wirin harness for the ignition, or you could run it to the fuse box, but if you still have all your wires where your radio goes, and just the harness is ripped off. you can just hard wire it into the pioneer radio harness, the only hard part is the tight spaces, if done it in a few cars where i wasnt able to find wire harness adapters. if you need to know wat each wire does, just look for your cars wire diagrams on this site: http://www.the12volt.com/

would this 6' tube be straight or would it have a u-bend so it would terminate in the same direction of the woofer

ok, thanks for clearin up some things, but i have one more question. There is another box i have seen built called a tapped horn. is this just a variation of a T line

i just estimated the tunin with winisd box designer.. its 21hz..reall low

No. The best way to do that would be a traditional ported enclosure with a removable port insert for changing the tuning. I'm a big fan of TL's, but trunks and SPL are two things I'd say they don't do very well, if at all I originally planned to just switch out ports, but i thought id give the Tline a try. .But i thought Tlines had more db output than a regular ported box

yea.. it definately hits the lows I am using and Audiopulse Axis 15. its Sd is 0.082m^2. so are you sayin the cross area of the port/line needs to be 0.082m^s. and if i got a True trans line box would i be able to have it play music at 33hz tune and also use 66hz tune for comps? Also can you explain the impedence part. here is a pic of the next box i want to build for theater system in my room. Its just a rough drawin i just made in paint. would this be a trans line.. and which box would be better? the right most one is and its basic 3-D look http://www.geocities.com/fritosaregood/new_box_design2.bmp

the line is 106" I didnt know i needed stuffing. after i posted i read about the impedances.. put idk how it measured it..its a dual 2 ohm sub it that means anythin as for the cross area at the end... because of space its not a true trans line(its in the trunk of a honda accord) but the port is 2.25"x14.5" the whole way with the openin firing 90degrees to the sub.. im findin the trans lines are gettin harder that i once thought they were here is a pic http://www.geocities.com/fritosaregood/PA050137.JPG

now only if had a 3000d... get one.. definately worth it

Yay for circuit breakers, I swithed from fused to those when i got my sundown 3000, and i love them

the woofers have to be out of phase for isobaric to work.... otherwise you get no sound... isobaric isn't intended to increase output.... Isobaric would never work properly with two different woofers.... it's never a good idea to mix subwoofers... of course the woofers will play and if your adding more woofers(more surface area) on the same power-pending the ohm load- it'll get louder... doesn't mean it's a good thing.. doesn't mean it bad I suppose.. I just know I'd rather pop my trunk and see 2 of the same woofers instead of 12 different boxes with every woofer I could pull out of the closet... for reference.. I went to a show where a kid had 12 12's in his ford ltd.. he had 6 different amps, 8 different boxes and 8 different kinds of woofers... he did a whopping 138.8db... at that show I ran 2 cerwin vega hed 8's (off 3k) and did a 146.3... so who needs 12 miscellaneous 12's anyway? (*I ran the 8's to mess with my buddy running 2 15's he was only doing 47's with his 2 15's and 3k) Use your best woofer, build a good box and enjoy, sell off all the miscellaneous stuff... isnt just switchin the pos and neg wires to one of the subs wirin it out of phase.. thats wat i did and there was no sound.. but that was one of my first systems when i didnt know alot, now i run a single fifteen, and sometimes one 8" in a really good box i dont mix woofer brand either,, it does look dumb

ill be nice and help you out, with wat i know about it. 1, more amps. just match the rms output the speakers, if you have a big voltage drop when the bass hits, you should get an high output alternator, and then extra batts 2. determining alts, look at the amps the alt delivers, multiply by 12~14 and youll get the watts it delivers.. right now i have a 200 amp alt for a 3600 rms system.. its close enough to work for me, but remember your car uses some of those watts to run the car... Extra batts, ive heard, the amps of the battery also equals the watts it will support. 3. Multiple alts.. id try to just get one high output alt. but if thats not enough youll have to fabricate a bracket, some alt shops can do that some cant. and for a high output alt. youll need a 0 guage ground wire connected to the frame, and a 0 guage power wire with an inline fuse and connect it to the positive terminal on the battery. Multiple batts, connect all the positives together, you should put an inline fuse between them just incase, but i only have one between the batt under the hood and the two batts in my trunk, then ground your batteries to the frame, you could also run 0 guage between the negatives too, but means more 0 guage wire. 4. Cheap, with quality... cheap batts, you could go to autozone and get a marine battery, but i use kinetik, but that expensive, try to find a battery that is sealed and wont leak, alts. Id say just do a search on the internet, i have an iraggi, there is also exessive amperage, ohio generator, denso i think. but they can get expensive.