fritosaregood

would it damage the sub that fail even further?

more wire, better current flow. and sometimes its hard to get 2+/0, so more runs of 1/0 will do the same, so in that case...in my car its a rediculously hard to run 1/0 gauge wire through the car. I'm planning on powering a Sundown 3000. Would i need more than 1 run of 0 gauge? it depends on how far you run the cable, i have batteries in my trunk and just run 1/0 guage less than 2 ft to the amp and it works great for me

more wire, better current flow. and sometimes its hard to get 2+/0, so more runs of 1/0 will do the same, How do you know if you need more than 1 run of 1/0 gauge? Does anyone know the max each wire can conduct, or does that purely depend on the wire? Is there a rough estimate? Like 4000 watts can transfer through 1/0 or something like that? the wire at Lowes is rated 190 amps for 1/0, but thats the only cable ive seen that had a current rating on it

more wire, better current flow. and sometimes its hard to get 2+/0, so more runs of 1/0 will do the same,

alright thanks for the help

So it would be a center divider with a whole in the middle? Err, perhaps just call it a brace. Yea a brace, but i was just makin sure thats what it would look like

So it would be a center divider with a whole in the middle?

Carpet time

the alternator should do fine, but maybe your batteriss arent the best, or you need more. I've got a 200 amp alt and 2 kinetik 1800s in the back for a sundown 3000, my lights don't dim until i have it on full power but even then its a hardly noticible flicker.

What happens when one driver fails in a common chamber?? might just turn the sub into a passive radiator. Then why the hell are you asking? im not askin about failure of a woofer, i asked why one design was better than another

What happens when one driver fails in a common chamber?? might just turn the sub into a passive radiator.

both Axis's, goin to wire both at a .5 ohm load on the sundown. so it should be alright to do a common chamber, if i do that, would a 2x4 goin from front to back and another from top to bottom in the center of the box work for bracing? Ive never built a seal box with this much power yet.

I'm leaning towards separate because the center divider would help with bracing, but does anyone know reasons behind which is better?

.

why not post on the build logs, show some progress of how its coming along

My set up is a Alpine 7995 head unit, runnning to my saz 3000d, my sub is a T3 tss 15. I have a audiocontrol overdrive sitting off to the side in a box I'm not going to use it if it's not going to help for spl. the sundown amp's line input voltage is only 6 volts. i dont think puttin 13 volts to it would be good, and don't those alpines have a 4 volt output already?

how big is your alt now, you should be ok just addin one extra battery for now if its around a 140 amp, since its an suv it should around that size, i think.

was it while you were playin music, or just turning it on? it it was when you were playin music, there could have been a big voltage drop that sent the amp into protect, that could be solved by bigger wire,

a 3000 watt amp through an 80 amp fuse would cause it to blow, i dont know why it went into protect though

was size fuse was it. and did you say the amp when into protect?

was the for me or the OP, for mine, the kickers, the boxes where shove all the way back blockin off the back seat whole, so i ported through the rear deck, but the second one, with the audiopulse the box is shoved all the way back again with the sub facin the other way, but it was a temporary box, its a little different now ya i was talking about the last pic there with the audiopulse. so u cant just lay the seats down huh? both setups are pretty sick. I could and did, but it was a big hassle, i had to put the seat up everytime i left the car, people around here like to steal stereos Happened once before, when i just took my 6x9s out, and you could see into the cars trunk. Also no passengers in the back if i gotta drop the whole seat down

if that switch is just hooked to + battery make sure you remember to turn it off, i originally did that for my fans, but i never remembered to turn them off

Yea, but im sayin the guy he got it from didnt know thats all it needed to work.

remote turn on is whats causin the problem, and using a switch to turn on a relay is inconvinient, change #86 to ignition wire.

wonder if the guy you bought it from bought it from someone else, found out it didnt work but was to lazy to figure out why, and decided to just rip someone off to get his money back??