fritosaregood
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Everything posted by fritosaregood
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Ok. thinking back a bit ago, i might have messed the sub up a while ago. Could I have been playing the sub on just one coil if it was wired in parallel and one coil was blown. What happened was my battery in my trunk slipped and touched the pos and neg speaker terminals, and shut off my amp, leaving me with a thumpin noise when i turned my amp off after that, so maybe this blew one of the coils, here is a link to the topic about what happened: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=22081
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A problem has arised. I finished the box, wired it up, wired it to 8 ohms to test it in my house, and it didnt play. here a link to the thread about it: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=22900
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suck the axis are back to full price, but those 10's are startin to make me want one for that price, but hey.. what are credit cards for right. haha
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for now its just goin to be one sundown 3000 @ .5 ohms
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here is a quick drawing in paint of what i was describing. for clipping, your sub isnt clippin, its the amp that clips, it could be that you gain is turned to high, i think it should just sound like distortion. if your amp is to powerful, your sub could be bottomin out. you still could just turn down the gain on the amp
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a quick fix could be to just cut it all the way to the end of the box with a jig saw, if it sounds good leave it that big, or if it doesnt, you could add L shaped piece in the hole for make the port the proper size.
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my box designer prog reccomends sealed for these, but this box was just for fun, to see what they sound like sealed.
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i just wanted some insurance, ive never done a sealed box with this much power, im goin to add more to the center brace too, but from the pics, you can see i ran out of glue
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since the whole front is pretty much two holes im goin to add some layers on the inside, where the subs bolt one. and are you sayin asymetrical like not a perfect circle but rather some oblong shape.? in one of my manufacturing classes i saw that rounds are strongest, with offset patterns, even better.
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would it be noticable to the ear, because I dont have a meter, the only place ive been able to get it metered is at comps.
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Are there any pros and cons of having ports firing: the same directions as the subs, 90 deg off the subs, 180 deg off the subs?
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What I am tryin to do is build a box for two 15's, I'll pobably only use the setup for comps because it will take up the back half of my car, that will be part ways in the trunk with the subs and ports where the back seats are. What I wanted to do was have the subs firing up, with the ports firing towards the front of the car. or would it be best to have both goin up?
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Got a HO alt, 1 extra battery, still dimming
fritosaregood replied to Cheesemind's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
my car has a fuse between the alt and + battery, and the irragi alt i have said to use a fuse, ive never heard not to use a fuse there. -
Got a HO alt, 1 extra battery, still dimming
fritosaregood replied to Cheesemind's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Im sure it was wrong. look at your factory fuse box, it has fuse for the alt in it. why would aftermarket alts be any different? -
Got a HO alt, 1 extra battery, still dimming
fritosaregood replied to Cheesemind's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
more wire, better current flow. and sometimes its hard to get 2+/0, so more runs of 1/0 will do the same, How do you know if you need more than 1 run of 1/0 gauge? Does anyone know the max each wire can conduct, or does that purely depend on the wire? Is there a rough estimate? Like 4000 watts can transfer through 1/0 or something like that? 10' of 1/0 Gauge is "only" 350 amps I believe. So unless you're running over 3k watts, you probably don't need more than 1 run of 1/0 right? Also, since I have a 200A alt, I'd be fine using 4 gauge to do the big 3? Or should I just go 1/0 to be safe? not much of a point doin the big 3 in 4 gauge, i think thats what stock battery cables are, do 1/0 guage, and be sure to use a fuse when connecting the alt post to the + battery terminal. -
Amp for HAT L61-2
fritosaregood replied to dlink's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
The pdx5 doesnt get super hot, is ok to touch, not too too hot, and it doesnt seem to affect the amp, i would say after 10 mins it gets to the temp it stays at, but ive drove for hours at times with it on 1/2 to 3/4 volume and it never shuts off, just stays warm. the actual output of mine is 105 rms x 4 in 4 ohm and 367 rms x1 in 4 or 2 ohm. -
I've got an 15" Audiopulse Axis running on a Sundown 3000, Ive got another Axis that should be here tomorrow. I was thinking about making a sealed box for both of them, but I dont know whether to do a common chamber or separate chambers. What are the pros and cons of each?
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What tone was used during that test?
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Amp for HAT L61-2
fritosaregood replied to dlink's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
im using an alpine pdx 5 and it puts out lots of clean power, and it hardly takes up space, but it gets hot,. i paid 600 for mine, way to much, but thats the only one i could get, then a week or two later, bam the store on here throws up some of the pdx 5's for $369 -
so audiopulse bought tc sounds, and now fi bought audiopulse...hah
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the audiopulse lms basket, and now a similar pulse beat line?
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i was thinkin the same
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Yeah i figured it out i went out there and turned it all the way up and i heard no clipping. turnin it all the way up has nothin to do with if the sub is fully loaded, it is how high your input voltage from the rcas is, those pioneers have a 4 volt pre out, and you got the gain turned to max,..? if so i bet you only able to turn your volume on the radio to about 20 before it stops gettin any louder
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"Dude, my cousin hit 400 DB with two sony explodes " kinda sad, but ive acturally heard that one before