fritosaregood

just my room for now, its really just a test box to see how well the design works. I did throw it in my car for a day though. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxg3SP9RWaY

yea, except my port area is about 20% what it should be, but that box is the best box I have build for very low frequencies

so that means air pressure is what makes a system loud? No.. you need to watch the video again.. It means air pressure is what causes the system to register on a termlab to get a number. He just did a test by screaming in it to show the difference between loud to the "ear" and loud on the mic. My systems built to be all out loud to the ear and with all windows rolled up I cant build pressure in my cab to save my life. All I can do is be ungodly loud and move tons of air ok. so what would a system that is just loud be like compared to a system that builds up pressure. in terms of box design, woofer size, etc Your not serious are you? yea. because it seems like there is something I'm not getting. Are you saying loud is like some 6 1/2 speakers playing and spl is subs. I know about spl, I think I'm just confused on the way you mean 'loud'.

Ive got a 95, you think a lot like me. not wantin to just tune a box high for better numbers. the last comp i was at had almost 10 different kids all with pro boxes bought from the local shop. all peaked at 51ish hz some hittin 141-3 with two 12s, i think a 147 with two 15" L7's. i pulled up with my low tuned box (later found out my eq was set to only use 1500 or my 3000watts, found out even later that i had a blown coil durin the comp. so about 800 watts now), with this box it peaked at 41 hz and i did a 144.1. pulled up for a another run, wanted to show all the kids that went out and bought all there stuff what a real box would do, rolled down the windows played a 25 hz tone, and got a 140.1. I cant wait till the next one to see what it really does. here is the vids of it:

i have a honda accord too and its peaks frequency seems to be 45ish. my box is big like yours so its facing forward. I found the biggest box that will fit with the sub not facing up is 32"x20"x16" outer, which gives an inner volume of 4.75cubes before woofer and port displacement.

There are sundown 8's, they are on presale right now on the sundown manufacturer page. rated 200 rms 4.25 depth. I'm waitin for 4 of them i used to have an L5 8 and it was good in the right box.

so that means air pressure is what makes a system loud? No.. you need to watch the video again.. It means air pressure is what causes the system to register on a termlab to get a number. He just did a test by screaming in it to show the difference between loud to the "ear" and loud on the mic. My systems built to be all out loud to the ear and with all windows rolled up I cant build pressure in my cab to save my life. All I can do is be ungodly loud and move tons of air ok. so what would a system that is just loud be like compared to a system that builds up pressure. in terms of box design, woofer size, etc

so that means air pressure is what makes a system loud?

At 1 ohm the most you would get is 1400, as for measuring, you need a clamp meter(I think thats what is called) and you measure the current. I'm not sure of which wires though

how would it be puttin out 1600 rms with 2 70 amp fuses.. are they really really efficient? they dont........ and they are FAR from efficient oh I read your post wrong. I thought you were saying they did.

how would it be puttin out 1600 rms with 2 70 amp fuses.. are they really really efficient?

I have a bx 1608 I ran it at 1 ohm forever and i never had trouble, I don't think it does 1600 rms it only has 2 70 amp fuses so that would but it around 1400 at the most. but i thought mine was great, i ran 2 12" L5s and then 1 15" axis and i liked it, but now i like my sundown. here is a vid of it powering the axis

Not on a 95 accord

yea and at 41 hz. i also did a 140 is at 25 hz.. but im gonna be puttin my new axis in the old ported box for now, itll hold me down till i get a recone done.

I just built a box for two audiopulse axis's sealed, with one ive used for a while and a brand new one. They are both dual 2 ohm, I got the box all finished and wired all the coils in series for an 8 ohm load for my home amp for testing, and nothin came one. I checked the final resistance of the box and it read invalid. I pulled the new sub out and checked each coil and they showed the right resistance, i pulled my older one out and it showed resistance in one coil but in the other it was invalid. I pulled the older sub out of its old box two days ago and it had a thin layer of saw dust on parts of it, i guess i didnt clean out the box all the way. I used one of the microfiber clothes to wipe off all the saw dust i could see, inner and outer parts of the basket, under cone, magnet. Also while it was in it box before, (a month ago) i wired it down to 4 ohms to test in my house and it work, after that i had the coil in parallel for a 1 ohm load and it ran fine, so could the saw dust have messed something up? or ( as I've been typing this I thought maybe it messed it up this way) when i was cleanin it could i have ripped a wire out some where? This sub says it can easily be taken apart to do recones, it just has 4 allen bolt holding it on. But is it really that easy. and puttin it back together, is it hard, do i have to get it exactly centered to the mm or anything? ive never taken a sub apart yet.

ill have to add another when ever i ressurect this project

I emailed them about it earlier. but Ive never done one and I'm not sure exactly what it consists of. Will i get a new basket, cone, coil. ect. assembly. or will i just get a cone and coil and have to glue it to the existing basket?

the burn spot. or the shavings. it looks like the shavings came out of a hole for the bolt to hold the basket on.

im sad now too, but as for improvement. i was at a comp a few weeks back (this is after i blew the coil), i forgot to turn my eq back to my comp setting, and it did a 144.1 so i figured id do a few dbs higher with it on the eq on the comp setting (which used all 3000watts the sundown can put out), but now i find that it was only on 1 coil too. thats makin me think this is one beast of a subwoofer.. good thing i just got the another for half off. And with my new axis, they all come with a sheet of the specific t/s parameters for each driver, and the new one, is just a little better in all of the parameters than my old one.. im goin to miss the thought of having two 15 though.

here are the rest of the pics i have though: wired to 8 ohms to test. which lead me to find out my problem Evidence of what happened

ok. build is haulted for a while, because the one of the coil from my older sub was blown due to a problem a while back when the pos and neg wires got shorted out.

here are some pics

exactly, in series, there is only one path for current to flow, which is why it didn't work. In parallel, there is more than one path for current to flow.While it still worked, yet at a reduced level, and you didn't notice it. it was with a new box so i guess i just didnt notice...but it still did a 144.1 at a comp a week after i blew the coil, but yea, i knew thats why it did play while in series. I just took the sub apart, and there is a burn spot on the magnet. where it blew.. ill have some pics up soon. there was also some metal shavings in the magnet? Probably pieces of coil. it doesnt look like copper?

exactly, in series, there is only one path for current to flow, which is why it didn't work. In parallel, there is more than one path for current to flow.While it still worked, yet at a reduced level, and you didn't notice it. it was with a new box so i guess i just didnt notice...but it still did a 144.1 at a comp a week after i blew the coil, but yea, i figured thats why it did play while in series, open circuit. I just took the sub apart, and there is a burn spot on the magnet. where it blew.. ill have some pics up soon. there was also some metal shavings in the magnet?

how hard would it be to take it apart?