fritosaregood

it says for car and marine. here are specs. --AA BASS12 --12

that small of a difference might not affect it. but i made one and my chamber for the sub was too big and turned the box into a regular ported box tuned to 22 hz. but the box is still loud. it did a 140.1 at 25 hz..with 800watts. But i like the look of inverted subs. so thats how ive been making them now. Ive tried a reverse tapperein from very small line are to the full line area at the end, but ive never started bigger and ended and the line area it should be. but i know its been done for this exact reason.. but what ive done is build scale models for some 7 in woofers to see what is better.

here is how i would make one, its just a quick drawin in at. imagine line is the samw width all the way through.

it seems like it should. Do you not have space to invert the sub, and have the magnet on the outside of the box?

It was 1W@1m. i wasnt gonna get them for a system, but just put 4 of them in my car at take it to comps.. but there are around 130 for 4 of them.. It doesnt seem like they will actually put out what they say. there 8" is 98db, 10" is 98db, 12 is 98db, 15 is 96db and 18 is 94db. all with 60oz magnets. doesnt show excursion,

where its 13.5 x 7 x 12. is 12 across? it look like that but you 3 ports but wood. with would make 13.5. but you also have 13.5 up. its just hard to tell since there are dimension lines. But I invert my subs when the depth is an issue. and i start my lines at the point farthest from the opening, including where the woofer is since that really should be part of the line.

You can get G E at walmart, that makes them no good.

it looks like you didnt account for the width of the wood for where the woofer sets.

another question. I didnt read anything about size difference, but for the ebay sub I saw: THere is a 12 with a 98 sensitivity and a 15 with a 96. only 50 rms difference. Does that mean the 12 would be louder (on the meter).

That was a good read. btw i have home audio speakers in my rear deck and doors. and when ppl here how loud and good my car sound, then i tell them they cost me 12 bucks each. their jaws drop cuz they went to a shop and paid 200+ for a pair of speakers. I did use a dayton hf driver in my car for a while too, but im back to my audiopulse now

First you need to tell us what you want out of a new light bulb. Are you looking for a Brighter light. or just a good light that will last forever.?

Will windows up or down change the peak frequency. I was at a comp and it peaked at 41 hz, with the windows up. and got a 144.1, later I did a run with the windows down and did 5 hz steps to see what it metered at. and at 25 hz it got 140.1 and i think it was a 142.somethin at 40~41 hz. I dont think it does a 140.1 at 25 hz with the windows up, but i havent tested it like that yet. Is it normal to gain db with windows down on low low notes (20-30ish), but gain db with windows up on higher low notes(40-55)?

yea. its those little $12 goldwoods from PE. I've been lookin at doin an enclosure thats a box inside a box and the port would be the space inbetween. then ones i started gettin into Tline boxes i thought this design would be easier to build and take ut less space to go into the corner of a room. this box turned out alot better than i expected. what i want to do now is build it for some 15s and throw it in a van or somethin big. but next up is 4 E8's

I've been looking into transmission line and tapped horn enclosure for a while, but still dont know a whole lot. here is my attempt at a tapped horn design with 4 7in goldwood woofers($12 each). I have it all put together right now and it sounds really good, but its too late to turn it up real loud so that will wait till mornin. I'm not finished with the build yet though, but i was close to finishin so i decided to see how it sounded so far. If anyone knows more about the designs, and sees if I'm doin anythin wrong, I'm listenin for advice. the outside the inside bottom piece wired up to see how it sounds. 4 8 ohms woofers wired to a single 8 ohm load, gettin about 250 watts from my plate amp

most cuts only left 1/16 inch of wood, but then about 5 cuts on one end went up to 1/8 inch, I don't know what happened there, but it being thicker at the end definately made it harder to bend

It would reduce turbulence... would there really be any, if there was it would be easier to just pour resin down the inside. since bein almost 4ft long it would be hard to fiberglass. I doubt there would be much, but resin on the sides wouldn't hurt. I don't think that would help too awful much unless he fiberglassed it. BTW fritosaregood are you 'Tony B'? yea thats me and if its just to smooth out the inner surface resin would do that. I think

It would reduce turbulence... would there really be any, if there was it would be easier to just pour resin down the inside. since bein almost 4ft long it would be hard to fiberglass.

thanks. Im not fiberglassin this one. but im debatin on fiberglassing the outside of the actual enclosure I'll build, but i really dont think it needs it.

Im goin to be makin a tube inside a tube about 4ft long.

I like using bolts.

thanks for the site. I think I read about using a 2 to 1 pr to woofer ratio on another site too, but i only have one blown sub for now. and i figure it needs a recone anyway so I can really do anymore damage to it now.

there are some on here: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i48_car...---grilles.html It has some for the JL w7s and they have pretty high excursion. but even if the some of the grills dont have enough clearance. you could make a ring out of 3/4"mdf to go around the subwoofer and put the grill on that. It'll add 3/4" of clearance

this box is back on the table. but with a twist. Ive decided to get a replacement basket assembly, but audiopulse has horrible customer support, cant get in touch over the phone and no response from email. So it may take a while for that. But Im goin to use the old basket assembly and convert it to a passive radiator. with a variable weight somehow(ive got a few ideas). But I do have a question. I was reading up on tuning PR boxes, and it says the cone mass/weight should be the same as the equivalent weight of air that would fill the port length of that frequency. So this imaginary port, is its port area the same as the area of the woofer cone?. Im thinking it is but would like to make sure.

finishing up I would say this box is better than the first. i can stand outside my house with this thing on, and it still sounds like the sound is all around you. and all from 4 7in woofers. next up, one of these boxes with 4 sundown E8s, maybe the other box version too

here is the second box it this comparison project. inside. middle. outer.