fritosaregood

i always here ppl say dont use bass boost. is that for the deck or the amp, i have my boost on my deck set to 0 but my bass boost from the amps is at 1/2, if i have the amp bass boost at 0, there is hardly anything playin.

should i turn up every bass settin i have. or just make sure my gain is up to the right level

got vids? your setup is right up my alley man! screw bigger numbers above 30Hz... I have SUB woofers, and to me "bottom" is 20Hz. I could care less if anyone can get 160 deebeez at 60Hz. here is a vid from the comp i went to. kick ass what's with the 1/2 power? got any vids of the woofer in action? it was actually 1/4 power, I had my eq set on my daily settings with is half power, but i has also blow one of the coils a few weeks earlier, so only one was workin. for more vids you can just click on my profile from that vid, and there is more

Got 4 of the 8's a few days ago, heres a vid of some excursion:

got vids? your setup is right up my alley man! screw bigger numbers above 30Hz... I have SUB woofers, and to me "bottom" is 20Hz. I could care less if anyone can get 160 deebeez at 60Hz. here is a vid from the comp i went to.

if you want a sub that will go low and low i know the audiopulse axis will do it. ive got a box right now tuned to 22 hz. took it to a comp, despite havin some problems i didnt yet know i had, i did 140.1 db at 25 hz. with somewhere around 800 and 1000 watts. peaked at 144.1 at 41 hz

oh i have the beta

where is the impedence graph on winisd

ive got a way out there idea.. but i dont even know if it will work. Since you have the 24 volts. could you put a bank of battery but connect all the negs of those batts to the pos fo the 24 volt source and all the pos of the batts to the ground. then connect all the amps to the neg terminal of the batts. That would reduce it down to 12 volts. or maybe use 8 volt batteries in the same way and get 16 volts. it works in circuits classes ive done with batteries, but idk if it will work with somethin that big

have you checked the voltage coming out of the alternator

Mine are on their way. Yay!!

Im about to start building a tube out of MDF for a sub box, but before I needed to test things out to see if I could. I also decided to take pics of it for a little tutorial if other people are wondering how to do this. I started of by finding the inner diameter I need. Im going to use this for an 8" sub with a 7" cut out. so my inner diameter is 7" Now outer diameter: I'm using 3/4 MDF so my outer diameter is 1.5 + the inner diameter' 7+ 1.5=8.5" Now I can find out how long I need to cut my board: take the outer diameter multiply times pi to get the circumference, which will equal the board length: 8.5 * 3.14 = 26.7" Board length is 26.7" Now I need the inner circumference: 7 * 3.14 = 21.98 or 22" Now I can find how much wood I need to remove in order to bend the wood completely around. outer circumference - inner circuference: 26.7 - 22 = 4.7" Now I have to remove that much wood distance with a 1/8 inch table saw blade. So I need to know how many cuts that will take. so I divide my distance needed to be removed by my table saw's blade width: 4.7 / (1/8) = 37.6 = 38 cuts Now I have to spread these cuts out evenly across the board. I need to find the distance between the cuts by dividing the original board length the number of cuts: 26.7" / 38 cuts = 0.7" apart. To make it easier to cut evenly down the board i cut alot of pieces of wood 0.7" wide Pic time Board 26.7" long all my pieces 0.7" wide before cuttin I needed some prevention for MDF boogers set the table saw blade where it almost goes through the wood lining up all my little pieces to make the cuts even Leave a small gap to start with so the first cut isnt right at the end of the wood First cut showing how deep it goes half the cuts down it Bends all of the cuts done I used wood glue to fill in the gaps it took alot. but most of it with squeeze out Now bend it together, I couldnt take any pics of this process because I was by myself it was kinda hard to do this part. I just used a rope, but an easier way would be tie down straps for a trailer. That way you can rachet it down easily, because the last inch of completing the circle was tough. but here it is checkin the dimensions. inner diameter outer diameter I let it set for a day to cure took the rope off, and it stayed together...yes!! Final Product Thanks for watching, hope this helps some of you guys. If anyone can add anythin I may have missed feel free.

Would it not run out everywhere. Ive used bondo before too, and it worked alright I think you can use some duct tape on the ends but it's going to be a bit more difficult than with wood glue. one more use for duct tape

the only one so far

comes with a nice armrest too.

Why don't you use 0GA? If you ever have a high power demanding system in the future your going to have to re-run the wire in 0GA so you might as well do it now. And about your question I'm not sure. 4gauge is a lil thin dont ya think bro?....i would go with 1/0 or 0gauge like ^^^^^^ said....bigger the wire the better man....also fuse it 1/0 = 0 gauge

yea that part was confusing me

I read on a thread on here that a sub with say 90 sensitivity rated 500rms would be louder (on the meter atleast) than a sub with a 85 sensitivity rated 1000 rms. are there other factor involved in this besides sensitivity. like excursion, that would affect which one is louder. I ask because I was wonderin around on ebay and saw a sub called a AA Bass15 (I'm sure its not the same AA that some ppl on here use) and it has a sensitivity of 96 db rated 450/900. Thinking about the whole double power gains 3 db rule, mathematically it seems like this would be better than my audiopulse axis with 87db sensitivity rated 2500rms, but it does mid to high 40's. would that little ebay sub do better, or are that many other factors? sub factors, not things like box type

I was looking at the parameters again and notices there is not sensitivity rating. What is the sensitivity of these subwoofers?

i might be tryin that soon. i was lookin at a 7"port for a comp box. and make soem flares on each end with fiberglass.

Today I worked on all the math to figure out how much mass the cone needs. First for a 12.72" dia port at 25 hz it is 118.59" long. with a total area of 8.72 ft^3 Mass of air is 0.034091 kg/ft^3 at 20degC So I need the mass of the cone to equal .29729kg or 297.27g also .65519 lb but, the cone already has a mass of 390g. Does all this seem right. I thought I would have to add mass, but it looks like I need to remove some.

i wouldnt just yank some scrap plywood from a dumpster to build a box. 20 bucks at home depot will get you a 4x8ft sheet of 3/4 mdf

Would it not run out everywhere. Ive used bondo before too, and it worked alright

for mine i didnt have the right line area either.. it was for a 15 goin in a accord. thats why it was so low. It would be better to taper it than increase the chamber to make it like a normal ported box. as for my models I didnt mean a program, i just build a box out of 1/2in mdf

second.. and did he say he was gonna steal wood from his neighborhood?