Biowaste

There is no way you're a WCU grad!!! Us Catamounts know how to drank! LOL - Just messin' w/ you man. -Bio

Soon, I'll be running Peerless SLS 6.5" midbasses in my doors. Around $80 for the pair. I'll agree and say good midbass is the key for metal listeners. Just listen to George's tom sound on Ithyphallic (Nile) and you'll know exactly what I'm talking about. You want those drums to be really warm, just like the real drum were recorded. Plus, the heavier guitar parts will punch more with dedicated midbass. Just some things to think about.. -Bio

Some of my favorites: DynAudio's show car, the piano playing was pure sex to listen to CV Stroker van, absolutely smothering bass sitting in that thing (headphones and all) and surprisingly, JL Audio's little Austin Mini. What are yours? -Bio

LOL - here in western NC, no trunk/vehicle rattling is considered sound quality. -Bio

Hey guys, I'm on the market for a new set of comps. I'm currently running some old-school green Infinity Kappas that are good, but it's about time to retire them (they're about 10 years old). I plan on auditioning sets before purchasing, but some other viewpoints would be appreciated. Specifics Enclosure - custom sealed kick pods (will be having them made soon) - I have Q-forms kick "pods" now, but they aren't enclosed - so it makes my current set sound wimpy. Size - 5.25" set Tweeter - preferably silk, but I'm not opposed to metal domed tweets Amp - MTX Thunder 4320 front channels (around 80 watts per side) Music - I listen to dynamic, melodic metal the most, from acoustic guitar to fast and brutal, with everything in between. Preferences - I dig mids and low mids, the gutty sounds of the drums and guitar is what I'm going after. Misc. - I have 6.5"s in the doors that I will be replacing as well, but that will be later. The doors are giving me most of the mid/low mid right now, but I'd rather have even more from the kick pods. Budget - $200-$250, $300 max Any recommendations? Thanks, -Bio

Update: So I took the plunge and had the doors deadened and sealed last week with Damplifier. I also had deflex pads put directly behind the speaker locations. Today, I ordered the Peerless SLS 6.5" woofers. What crossover points would you guys recommend for them? My plan is to high-pass my AudioControl Three.1 and low-pass my MTX Thunder 4320 amp to achieve a bandpass configuration, without spending the cash on a completely different crossover unit. I was thinking 50 or 60hz high-pass and 200hz low-pass (this is the highest freq. the crossovers on the MTX's will go). After that, have a good set of components take over everything from 200hz and up in some custom kick panels and have 1 ported sub handle 20hz to 50/60hz. How are those crossover points? Add: Just found out that getting a new crossover module for the Three.1 is about $20 shipped (each), haha. Ouch. I know it will be difficult to get the freq's dead on the first time, so what 2 or 3 should I start with? Thanks, -Bio

Earlier this week I had an opportunity to listen to a DD S4 amp. It was pushing a 6.5" component set up-front and one ported 12" in the trunk. Color me impressed, it sounded very good to my ears. I was just curious about other's people's opinions on the DD amps. *Are they reliable? *Are they expensive? *How is their customer service? The 4ch amp is rated at 100x2 and 200x2. Are there any other amps that can perform similarly for lower price? Just trying to weigh out all my options here by using ya'lls keen sense of cost vs. performance. What I really like here is the idea of simplicity. Headunit, amp, a set of comps, and one sub. I'm not looking to compete, but I am looking for quality music listening! Thanks guys, -Bio

Hello gents, So all these years I've been a sealed enclosure type of guy. I listen to bands with lots of double kick and I enjoy it being deadly accurate.. However, I did hear a ported 12" this week that has me rethinking some things. The guy played me Megadeth's "Rust in Peace" (remastered) album and the sub seemed to do pretty well keeping up with the double kick. However, how would the transient response be for even quicker metal bands? (i.e. Divine Heresy, Wintersun, Nile, etc..) Would it stay somewhat accurate? or would it turn into a more muddled response? Or... is it dependent on the frequencies of that particular kick drum(s) and/or be dependent on the band/mix of the CD? For you metal guys, what port frequency tuning works best for you? Thanks, -Bio

Man, I tell you... I was in the market for some new components anyway. The Infinity Kappas I have now are very close to retirement. For $80, I said what the hell and took the plunge. If they aren't for me, then I can sell and replace 'em. Be sure and let me know what you think of them! -Bio

60hz? 50hz? I just hope they'll be able to survive it. Thanks, -Bio

My plan was to run some PG rSD 6.5"s comps installed in properly sealed and deadened doors and to cross them around 75hz. That, plus a 12" either sealed or ported in the trunk. Do you think that would get me the midbass I'm looking for? In the most cost effective way of course... I'm heavily considering just dumping the kick pods and running an a-pillar/door setup. Over the years, imaging just isn't very important to me while driving. The time alignment on my HU should be enough to satisfy my listening needs. Thanks man! -Bio

I've always wanted one of the newer body styles as a little beat around car. If you were on the market for one, how would you go about it? Ebay Motors? Local sale papers? -Bio

If it were me, I'd also be concerned about the lower gas mpg with all that extra weight. With the way gas is priced now and in the future, you'll be spending more in the long run on that too. -Bio

I had an Ohio Generator alt in my car for a few years and it performed very well. However, I got on it a little too hard merging with traffic and popped it (dead). -Bio

Thanks for the tips/suggestions guys. Looks like the first step I'm going to take is getting the doors ready for those drivers. Deadened to hell and back, deflex pad plus sealed as well as possible. -Bio

Easy is an understatement. Now that Peerless has the 7" SLS and CSS has the SDX-7 (amongst others), very easy. Is there a website with more info on these brands? Thanks, -Bio

Hey guys, just here paying my dues in the newbie forum. I'd describe myself as more of a music lover than a basshead. Give me good clean sound quality any day of the week. That being said, I'm not quite an audiophile either, mostly due to budget and a light wallet. My system is, by today's standards, "old school". 1996 Honda Accord Sedan Alpine CDA-9830 AudioControl Three.1 MTX Thunder 4320 Infinity Kappa 5.25" Comp Set in Q-Forms "pods" Infinity Kappa 6.5" Mids in the front doors MTX Thunder 2300 3 JL Audio 10w6's Most of the gear was purchased in the mid to late 90's but still sounds fantastic. What brought me here? I went to college with Nick from Stereo Integrity. Met him once or twice. Eventually I'll have one 12" Mag in my trunk instead of 3 subs. Less space, less weight, and more room to haul drums around. Looking forward to contributing to the forums every now and again! Cheers! -Bio

I suppose I could try "combining" the crossovers from the AC Three.1 and the amps to create a bandpass crossover. I could give the 4" comp set everything from 250hz up and let the 6.5"s handle 100-250hz. It'd definately take some experimenting with the freqs to get the drivers in their comfort range though. This seems like a poor man's way to pull this off. What do you think M5? Thanks, -Bio

I was thinking of just dropping a 4" component set in some unsealed kicks and let the door 6.5"s do most of the dirty work for the lower mid range freqs. Of course it'd take some work on the doors, but it seems possible. What would be the main concerns of doing it this way? Frequency cancellation? -Bio

Not sure I'm following you here... ?? -Bio

I like that idea, actually. Are there any 4" component sets that you would recommend for my situation? Thanks ramos, -Bio

I can see the reasoning behind this. Perhaps having the door speakers will just have to work. Deaden the hell out of them and get them as sealed as possible. Thanks for the advice guys! -Bio

M5, thanks for the heads up. I'm not exactly how much airspace I'll have to work with. If it's going to be more trouble than it's worth, then I'll just stick with them and the 6.5"s in the doors. My original thinking was let the 5.25"s handle the mid to upper midrange frequencies, then let the 6.5" handle the thicker low mid to midrange frequencies. Is it a bad idea to have them this close together? My intentions were to get a more thick, gutty low mid from this scenario. Thanks, -Bio

I will certainly agree with this statement. I've been using a trio of old school 10w6's in my car for almost 10 years now and they still sound superb for my needs. They're being amplified by an old school MTX Thunder 2300 (about 900 watts after all's said and done). They're in a sealed enclosure that's firing towards the cab, right against the back seat, which isn't even ideal for most trunks, but it still works. I would have put them as far back in the trunk as possible facing away from the cab, but when I was 18, I didn't know any better, doh. You won't be disappointed in the w6's! -Bio