hiloracerboy84

not to threadjack, but Rob, can you please PM me a quote for a large case GM to fit a 97 4runner with the 3.4. i currently have a 300a large case gm iraggi in mine, and its doing just fine, just that my voltage sucks...i get about 13.3 hot...im looking for somthing in the 15v range hot if possible. i want max amperage, as i'm running 7k on 5 g31 batts. i'd also need to get a new regulator plug, as the alt from iraggi had me cut/splice a honda plug on with the alt. pm me a price for some of my options if possible. thanks!

finally got my system up and running, and after a little break-in preriod to let the spiders soften up a bit, i've finally got a daily system that i can pound on and be happy with. 2x saz3500d's and 2x ns v2 18's in 8 cubes @ 30hz sealed on the dash: so 153.9 @ 37hz on music, 152 @ 30hz. the loud n low champs thread made me decide to post this up so people take the ns V2's into consideration when doing a daily build...they're very capable of getting low while being loud, and the new v2's take abuse like a champ! (not recommended for those who dont know what they're doing)

just wondering, if there is any mainstream manufactured gadget for converging multiple 1/0 into a single 1/0 input like that found on the stesom amps. i'm looking for maximum flow/least resistance for an instantaneous dump of power for a single burp. this'll be a single 12 on 2 stetsom 7k e's in a crx. i know others have custom cnc's things, or buss bar type feeders, but just seeing if i can get away with not fabricating something.

vid didn't load the first time i looked @ this thread...mine is no wall, but i'm still interested in box size/port area

Ty, pm me some specs on the enclosure used please. i have a nearly identical setup and would love to raise my 30hz score a bit. as of right now, i'm at 152 @ 30, with a peak of 153.7 @ 37.

in this case, the duct tape is there more to make it ugly looking because we go by the saying, "the uglier the louder" . too bad i couldn't back those test results up at a recent event. hopefully once the 4500's are released, and i make a few changes, there can be an updated vid with better numbers. and jake, thanks for posting the vid up and giving our shop a bit of exposure! Jon

x2...with that space, the NS's were definitely a better choice. 6 cubes is definitely do-able with the given space. the bl's will probably be choking in that small of an enclosure. you ask a question on a forum, people try to help, and then you go ahead and make your purchase regardless of advice. YOU ftl. lol

i have an original style (stamped basket) AA assasin 8 that needs a recone. would it be possible to: - get the newer style 12 spoke basket (8") - recone the sub to D2 or D4 instead of Single 4 - add another spider or something to stiffen it up a bit. if these things are possible, or if they aren't, but you can do a straight recone, how much will it cost?

everywhere. and try to cover all openings in the doors to stiffen them up and decrease cancellation btwn the front and rear waves of the speaker(s)

might want to look into it, but i dont think the mounting depth will clear the port wall.

i have sigs disabled

cheap and loud, maybe sundown 100.4 and 4 sets of phoenix gold rsd's. what kind of "loud" substage does this have to supposedly keep up with?

first of all, for that price, i'd suggest looking into a refurb sundown that db-r has now. a 50.4, or even better, a 100.4 would walk all over that hifonics all day long. second, why 3 sets of comps? why not just do 4 still, loudness and clarity are very subjective so there is now way for anyone to tell you "this one" or "that one". its up to you. why dont you go find a demo board or listen to peoples chit and decide from there. why are you so set on kicker and Rf anyway?

power? enclosed? IB? loudest what? midbass, highs, what? clearest? don't know what you mean by that again there is no such thing as a "best" speaker. EVER. period. why don't you go listen to them and see what you like. i wasn't putting you down. i was saying it before someone else came in and tore you a new one. I don't see how this topic is any different from the other one. it is the same unanswerable question

um, http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=27979. closed for a reason douchebag

2 component sets + 100.4 = no need to bridge really...why not just hook them up in regular multi-channel mode? unless you're running active but i doubt it by your question. and unless your components are 2ohm or 8ohm i dont think bridging em would be good for the sax.

why didn't you buy a d2? you could do something like a saz3000d at .5ohm if you really wanted to...but youll need a stout electrical

another question: how are you going to fit 2 18's, 3 batts, and your amps in your pontiac gt?

is it double 1" mdf? kinda hard to tell

you could even go a bit smaller than that if you wanted..but with those dimensions, after sub displacement you should have a nice, low hitting box

does anyone read? lol and i second stealths request (as i head back to hca) and "The technology behind it and all the research might be worth more in some cases....then again the loudspeaker design didnt change much over the past 50 40 years" sure speakers work the same way, but are you seriously trying to say that there's little to no research and testing that goes into speakers?

sick box. just wondering...does having the subs/port configured that way make the subs load differently w/ one right above the port, and the other one not?

the technology that it incorporates that sets it apart from the rest...haha idk i dont think anything else on a sub is really THAT expensive...pound for pound though, if you've got a copper coil...the VC. lol

why not do it yourself? itll give you a better understanding of your stuff so if something goes wrong or anything, you know whats up. also...you're gonna pay them $50/hr to run wires?

the wiring you mentioned is parallel and will work fine. you could just run optima+ to kinetik + and just ground the rear batt in the back somewhere so you dont have to run two wires. the wire you mentioned is probably bigger than 1/0 as i dont know of any 1/0 that will weigh around 30lbs (12') unless its made of lead. no isolator or relay needed, but make sure you fuse BOTH ends of the wire close to the batts. the 150 is fine on your 1/0 cause your amp has 160a of fusing on it, so its fine. when you wire your amp up to the 2nd batt, if its close and won't short, theres no need for another fuse too...just straight battery to amp on both + and - connections.