hiloracerboy84

assuming from your questions/responses, you'll get carried away with the vol/gain... SO, get the flatwind and cooling (hey its free), as it'll help thermally w/ the clipped signal. not being an arse, or trying to say anything about you, but in most cases its whats going to happen.

2.5-3 cubes is a big muthafudgein box for a 10...if youre looking for an ultra efficient box for those 10's on 800w, fine, but i think a ssd or sd would be better suited

ummm....i "see" 26

how true is this, jake?

just bust out that can of creative juice, throw a big piece of mdf on there, and get high with some fg and resin, and post some pics when you're done! haha. i dont know a thing about doing IB... do you have to totally seal everything off? like patching up the rear deck area and all that?

chit, its a $30 alt? i dunno if i would take the risk of fabricating all that bracketry up just to have it crap out, or not even put out 30 amps...

if you can get the alt to work with the regulator and all the other electrical crap down there, it will essentially add amperage backup to your overall system. there are many people who run stock alts with added on HO alts dedicated to just their system, but like jon said, you have to check compatibility with your existing electrical.

Could you please elaborate? I'm in a similar position for my temporary setup... i asked bigJ about this too when i was in the market. he stated that the bl's sounded better, but with a drop in comparison, the nightshades were louder. i had different size speakers, so i can't speak on spl terms, but the bl's did sound better imho too

like bigjon said, its up to you, and your goals. if money is an issue, the price difference should speak loud and clear, but if money is no object, i'd say go all sundown. i've owned both a 12" bl, and 15" nightshade...and the bl was impressive for what it was, but the nightshade is nothing to shrug off either

sorry, i thought it was 1.75. well, 2.75@40hz then. to get down to 35hz, ports would have to be around 27", but then box would also have to be increased, or you could just increase the box size to 3ft^3 w/ 24" ports i guess. sorry, just trying to make sure you get it done right the first time...

i know this will vary greatly from vehicle to vehicle, but is there a general rule of thumb for sub/port placement as far as trunked cars being the loudest? i've always had setups in suv's, which usually take better to sub up, port back configurations. i have a 99 subaru impreza RS, and was wondering what would give me the best output as far as which way the sub fires, and which way the port fires. give me any, and all of your input. personal experience, theories, etc...

Slut port ?????? why of course...you know how them ports are...letting all that built up pressure go in and out of them all day long. haha

thanks for the quick reply cman. is that just for the meter, or is it loud on music daily also? i was looking into that as i saw some posts on that configuration floating around. is it just for aero's or does that setup work for slot ports too?

duran, by the looks of that pic, your ports are (or will be) inside the box. the total box volume (gross) assuming 3/4 mdf comes out to 3.5, and with the three 4" aero's, will tune to approx 35. if you take all that port displacement, along with sub displacement into account (net), the box will be quite tiny, and tuned a bunch higher. the ports are around .45 ft^3 i think, and the subs would be about .3 more, giving you a net of 2.75, and with those ports, that'll tune to around 40hz or so. i THINK that's what i'm seeing. sorry if i got it wrong, or your ports will be outside the box (still need to take sub disp. into account to get the 1.75ft^3 for em) just a heads up for you

im in no position to be answering questions, but if its the same as previous preorders, you can "preorder" up until the product starts shipping. jacob may decide to honor you 10% extra, but thats up to him since its past the 15th (he IS a nice guy though. haha). preorder prices include shipping, and i THINK these are the ~1000w range speakers, so w/ 2 of em, you'll have a bit of headroom.

well since HCA isn't letting me post, ill congratulate you here! awesome work...and with a drop in, into a box made for your DC's. what did your lvl 4's do anyway?

btw, what frequency is played when you hook up to a wall socket anyways?

he said he was rout(ing) in the 15 degree weather, so im assuming router and jasper jig or something. nice build so far!

yeah, what kind of prices are you looking at? if theyre dirt cheap (like my friends 15mofo 139 shipped to HAWAII), then go for them. if not, i'd go with something along the lines of what was suggested.

why do you automatically think kicker is better? i'd go with whatever you feel sounds the best. i haven't ever heard cvx's before, but a friend of mine had a 15mofo that got pretty loud, and took a TON of abuse (and power) for years before giving out. what kind of amp will you be using?

i dont think you should run it. it'll work, yes, but i think in the end, i think you WILL end up maxing the gain, turning on the bass boost, and clipping the hell out of it to make it "loud" while you wait for your other amp. all of this could leave you with an expensive mistake. run it IF you can resist the urge to run it to the ground. if not, just wait it out.

the motors are the same, hence the same power handling. i disregard power ratings to a certain degree. from what i've seen, a lot of people recommend AT LEAST 2kw for btl's...dont quote me on that though. you can run as much power as you'd like to a sub...it depends on the box size, port area, tuning, what you're playing, etc...but make sure you have a CLEAN signal. speakers' enemy is heat. either in the form of overpowering or underpowering. not to be a dick, but i see a lot of these questions all the time, and imo, people that need to ask this type of stuff shouldn't be playing with btl's and 1000's of watts of power. anyway, the 3000d should work okay, but don't get too carried away with the gain or bass boost

xmax doesn't solely determine how loud a sub will get...especially in a ported box. and regarding your earlier post about people bashing w7's...yes, lots of people do, but that is because they're overrated. JL was mean when the w7's came out YEARS ago, but since then, technology has progressed and more and more companies can offer the same level of performance for MUCH less.

you guys are ridiculous. haha. i actually sat here and read every post, picturing the dimensions in my head with whatever you guys were talking about ..classic. i think the box will work well though

i know it would come down to the car and everything else, but general statements - i.e. - "90sq in of port was too much" or "it worked well in a 2 cube box, but not a 5 cube one". im getting rid of it now though, so its alright. whenever i decide to build a "play" box ill prob use ext. pvc ports...if i ever get around to it, that is.